Thread: How to paint steel windows so they don't stick?

Waterbased acrylic wouldn't be my choice for this application as it is thermoplastic, and will remain sticky for a long time, the hotter it gets the stickier it gets.

I would have used a solvent based enamel, but I suppose that doesn't help you now.

Probably one of the best things to put on there now is talcum powder, ie Johnson's Baby Powder, just rub it on the inside of the frame, should help.

Whatever you do, don't use anything slicone based if you want to ever re-paint the windows again.

use the wattyl killrust line.....all enamel........never water based paints

Hi

Remove ANY extra coats of paint where they are likely to touch. If you do this, you will increase the gap between the two "opposing" layers of paint then the chances of the paint sticking is minimised as there is no pressure or less pressure against the two surfaces.

Thanks for the replies. I have removed excess paint and put a top coat of turps based enamel and it is much better.

I have painted some steel windows before with acrylic and not had a problem - I think this particular window had a crap paint job done in the past and one of the earlier paint coats did not stick very well to an underlying coat. Some parts of the earlier paint coat flaked off when I was removing excess paint - I could tell it wasn't any of my painting because of the colour. This was on the underneath of the opening casement so I didn't prep very well there before I painted.

Anyway I'll be using turps-based enamel in the future, at least for the parts of the window that might stick.

good to hear all is well.....remember to use ONLY enamels, when next time they need painting at least you will be able to sand them smooth. also the paint build up wont be as thick as acrylic

Originally Posted by Slobba

good to hear all is well.....remember to use ONLY enamels, when next time they need painting at least you will be able to sand them smooth. also the paint build up wont be as thick as acrylic

I've done 4 more windows now - all with Wattyl KillRust then White Knight Rust Guard on top (to get a flat white finish). Not a great fan of White Knight paints but theirs is the only flat white rust proof paint around AFAIK.

I suppose previously the windows were done with enamel so I haven't bothered with undercoat (except over new Norsdjo Super Putty) and it is sticking perfectly. Saves time too.

I have noticed that the oil-based paints don't fill cracks as well so prep is more important. For example, some of the old paint has very fine crazing in it - I have concluded that you need to strip any crappy paint before repainting.

BTW, I have been masking the window with masking tape and paper and using spray cans. The spray cans go a long way - I'd about it's less than one can per window. Saves a lot of time. You spend more time masking but the coats are quick and easy to apply. KillRust applies better than White Knight but doesn't come in flat white. My windows are not up to being done in Gloss!

I have a can of White Knight Rust Guard in the same colour to touch up with a brush all the bits where the spray doesn't penetrate (fine cracks and holes). I am using Ezyclean brush cleaner which is another great time saver for cleaning brushes of oil or acrylic paint.

Obviously spray cans cost more but I am happy to pay a bit extra to save a lot of time. What's more is that I now enjoy doing it rather than hating it - so it is getting done far faster. I reckon the 4 windows I've done with spray cans and masking took about the same time to do as one window with brush with no masking. (Brush with masking is probably fast as well but the application is not as even by my unskilled hand.)