Thread: Advice for a Newbie Please

G'day Hugh,
Have a look here at what has done.

HUGH, if you only want to do a few and only 'roughly' the same dia. have you considered holding them between two 'centres' eg rotate by hand supported on simple frame. And use a router guided along their lenght? would not be too hard to set up, with the right router and bit, slower than turning but possibly more accurate over their length and no need to source a big lathe and learn how to turn. the frame could be almost at ground level.
That's what I would do and I have been turning for years. ( not trying to be smart)

Just an idea.

What Inventor said. Here's a smaller version, "turned" on a router table: http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=57412

For a 6-metre length, the router above would probably be easier, but the router support rails will have to be quite robust and stable. If the support rails have about the same order of stiffness as the workpiece blank, both will sag about the same, and the final turning will be exactly round throughout. Without doing the arithmetic, a turned pole of your span-to-depth ratio might need a steady rest; perhaps will chime in with a better opinion on that, if you still want to consider it.

And welcome aboard, Hugh.

Cheers,
Joe

Hire to do it!

Thanks for your welcome and thoughts fellows!

Its a pity is 3500kms away..... I could not justify the transport costs
but what a perfect setup!

I also though that a couple of centres and some sort of traveling cutter might do the trick.

Could I use an arbourtec cutter or something like that and drag it slowly along the log which only rotates at a very low speed. I would get a spiral pattern but that might be cool...

Some have mentioned a router, what kind of bit would I put on that?

Cheers,
Hugh

Hugh, yes an arbortech could work, need a big wattage angle grinder. Wheras a big router would leave a better finish and has plunge to set depth.
Depending upon the size of the router ( 1/2") and the base hole size ( and if variable speed) you 'could' use a large multi tip cutter ( I use a carbi tool) unit that is for doing surfacing work and is about 80mm in dia. ( 6 TC tips for memory)

Similar to what can be used in the wood surfacing machines. That way it covers a reasonable area at a time.

what ever you do it would be a 'slowish' process if you are talking hardwood and large amounts of wood to be removed. but worth it.

I would look at setting it up nearly at ground level, ( on car stands???) that way you could easily make up the router guide, using even a simple wood frame.
food for thought.

Ok,
I am getting a kind of feeling for this....thanks for your thoughts Inventor and others.

Some other things I have no idea about;

Is there a trick to mounting a piece like this?

with the weight I am thinking of drilling a Ø25mm or so hole in each end of the log and using a short shaft to fit with a welded flange drilled for some coach screws into the end of the piece to keep it on.

Is there a trick to get it centred or is it trial and error? I will only get one shot to use the above method or I'd have to cut the end off and try again.
I guess I also have to cut the ends so they are parallel and the centres must point at each other or its a stuff -up. Not so easy on a tapered twisty pole!

Cheers,
Hugh

Hugh, it sounds about right, there is no real easy way to get centre, even if you put it on a lathe its a lot of guess work, you just need to start with a big dia piece ( if its out of round) that is why this method is maybe better than a lathe, as it does not rely on being balanced.

scribe some circles on the square cut ends to get the centre. assuming the log is 'straight'.
That is why I suggested doing it at ground level, ( concrete etc) as you can work off a level surface and don't have to lift the pole too much. etc etc. you would not even have to turn the pole slowly. you could just run back and forward and 'inch' the pole around as you go.

Maybe slot the flange holes to allow for adjustment?

Clearly you could do it smarter but you only want to do a few.

Been watching this thread with interest. I might learn something new.

All good ideas however none of them will work the way you envisage.

In order to round a log with a router setup you need massive horsepower at the cutter head if the log is rotating to stop the cutter from bogging down. I have tried it with routers. It don't work and at best is fouled trouser stuff.

If you are rotating the timber it must be done by hand to obtain a "feel".

We do octagonal flag poles and use a 6" cutterhead from a jointer mounted on a frame and that works very well but you will end up with a series of flats.

Again the timber is stationary and located with indexing heads.

Just as an aside we charge a $110.00/metre + GST for this sort of stuff. Timber supplied by owner. Freight from here to Perth including GST is $1100-$1200. Telephone poles are our main source for this sort of work.

Hello !
thanks for taking the time to reply, very happy to hear from the man himself.

I suspect you will learn nothing from me except how people who dont know, think everything is "easy"!

It seemed clear that a spinning log is a bad idea and I did not think Inventor was proposing to do more than turn it by hand, inching it around to get a facetted finish as you describe.

If I pick the logs carefully they may be pretty close to size and the arbortech cutter appeals to me, whats your take on that tool for this purpose. (although even thinking about angle grinders and routers makes my fingers try to retract into my hands)

Or what about a chainsaw on a guide ,to rough it out? I saw something called a "ripper" during my earlier searches.

Your wisdom and experience much appreciated.

P.S. I think your rates sound very reasonable and would be at your place in a shot but the timber is on the client's site here in Western Australia 200k's south of Perth and to freight both ways would be a no-no in my design philosophy.

Cheers,
Hugh

There you go Hugh, we were not far off the mark. As mentioned ( and I suggested) you would not need to 'power' the pole around. Also as mentions ( as I suggested) you could work along the pole, rather than spinning the pole, as such.

I should have been more specific in my post. Sorry about that. At least you have your answer, even if it took us a while to come up with a 'similar' idea.
Arbortec's are OK but need heaps of power to run for extended periods when doing lots of cutting.

A large electric hand held planer ( if guided properly) might create a similar effect??

see you, have fun.

Originally Posted by Hugh_Ravening

Hello !

If I pick the logs carefully they may be pretty close to size and the arbortech cutter appeals to me, whats your take on that tool for this purpose. (although even thinking about angle grinders and routers makes my fingers try to retract into my hands)If they are close to size you may be better off getting a high pressure cleaner and debarking them with that and leave "au naturale". Have seen some like this and they look fantastic with a coat of oil on them. "Cutek" before you ask.

Or what about a chainsaw on a guide ,to rough it out? I saw something called a "ripper" during my earlier searches. Cost wise you might as well send them over here.

Your wisdom and experience much appreciated.

P.S. I think your rates sound very reasonable and would be at your place in a shot but the timber is on the client's site here in Western Australia 200k's south of Perth and to freight both ways would be a no-no in my design philosophy. Or the clients Fiscal Policy?

Cheers,
Hugh

Originally Posted by INVENTOR

There you go Hugh, we were not far off the mark. As mentioned ( and I suggested) you would not need to 'power' the pole around. Also as mentions ( as I suggested) you could work along the pole, rather than spinning the pole, as such.

I should have been more specific in my post. Sorry about that. At least you have your answer, even if it took us a while to come up with a 'similar' idea.
Arbortec's are OK but need heaps of power to run for extended periods when doing lots of cutting.

A large electric hand held planer ( if guided properly) might create a similar effect??Have used one of those too and they do a reasonable job with patience.

see you, have fun.

I agree and need a fair bit of experience. I think the cost would be prohibitive as well.

Thanks All,
I will retire to a corner and ponder the possibilities, I do really appreciate your thoughts and feedback - it has made the problem clearer and flagged some possible solutions.

Some of this wood is so nice and clean I can leave it as-is no problem,
so that pathway is not out of the question, but if you dont ask, you dont find out, so this has been a great process for me to hash out an idea with wiser heads.

Maybe I'll get some little logs for practice and see if I can avoid some of those "trouser fouling" experiences!

Thanks again,
Hugh