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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Tuntable Falls Nimbin NSW
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    Default Some advice on this silky burl please?

    A mate gave me this silky burl on "consignment". It's fully seasoned (been in his hot container for about 3 or 4 years. I have a couple of queeries!
    1. How can i get the bark off without having to try and slowly pick at it and possibly scratch the lovely "knobly bits". Any clever ways? Dont want to sand blast it or anything drastic like that!!:eek:
    2.I was just going to turn a simple hollow form on the flat side if you know what I mean, so how does one attatch this to the lathe?:confused: I don't have the room to turn between centres. Do I try and sand or plane a flat bit on the bottom (bark side) of the burl, and cut a dovetail to suit my scroll chuck, or should I invest in a faceplate ring, flatten a section where the bowl is likely to rest, flatten it off and attatch the ring?
    Indeed any and all suggestios would be most welcome. Thanks

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Townsville Qld
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    Default

    No suggestion as i have no idea but good score.That going to make something really nice
    Toni

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    tara qld
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    4

    Smile re your bark on silky oak burl.

    Hi I use a wire brush on an angle grinder. Different types available from soft tohard bristle. Takes off bark and leaves a soft polish on the sapwood knobs.. Hope this helpsd. Mal.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Croydon
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    55
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    Default

    Faceplate sounds like the go, that's a fair bit of weight there!
    Lovely bit of burl, should turn v well.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
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    Canberra
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    Default

    On the centre of the sawn face I would screw on a faceplate and then turn a natural edge bowl, ie: turn and finish outside of bowl with spigot or recess and then mount in chuck and turn and finish inside of bowl.
    Cheers
    Barry
    If it walks like a duck, talks like a duck and looks like a duck then it's a friggin duck.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
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    Canberra
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    Default

    This link shows how I tackled a similar burl while wanting to retain the natural exterior.

    To get the bark off I just picked away at it with a flatbladed screwdriver and hammer... If you can get your hands on a high pressure water cleaner you might have some good success.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Tuntable Falls Nimbin NSW
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    Default Thanks everyone

    Thanks for all the suggestions. Toasty, that is what i had in mind. Thanks for the link. I'll see what it looks like when I get the bark off. It's sort of loose in patches, so I'll try a high pressure water cleaner to start with.
    Cheers

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
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    12,746

    Default

    Did this with a lump of jarrah burl; spigot looks better than a recess in my view.

    There are some options too if you don't want to spoil the natural edge bottom, ie, you want a turned inside but entirely natural exterior. Sing out if you're interested.

    btw some 'naked' burls look pretty ordinary; others like Jarrah have a texture worth looking at.
    Cheers, Ern

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Tuntable Falls Nimbin NSW
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    Default Definately interested!

    Quote Originally Posted by rsser
    Did this with a lump of jarrah burl; spigot looks better than a recess in my view.

    There are some options too if you don't want to spoil the natural edge bottom, ie, you want a turned inside but entirely natural exterior. Sing out if you're interested.

    btw some 'naked' burls look pretty ordinary; others like Jarrah have a texture worth looking at.
    Thanks rssr. I am definately interested, if your method differes from Toasty's link. A spigot might be worth considering. How? I think if this bark comes off OK the "naked burl" might be good!
    Cheers

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
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    Default

    Well, sorry if this is teaching you how to suck eggs but for the sake of clarity, and bear in mind I'm no technical writer so am doing my best ;-} ...

    Toasty turned a recess in which your jaws fit in expansion mode. I've found burls variable in their grain patterns and so variable in the strength of the recess so prefer to turn a spigot, ie. a stub, that I can then later refine into a foot.

    The drawback is that your chuck jaws will likely leave marks on it when you've turned it so at the end of all the turning you have to find a way to reverse chuck again to clean up the spigot (ie. foot). An exception is if you size the spigot so that it is slightly smaller in diameter than your jaws so that it's the inside of the jaws rather than the sharp ends that do the gripping. Make sense? I'm a fan of a foot on a bowl btw, to give the overall form lift and flow.

    If that's not possible and you have to clean up and refine the foot, you can do so by turning a faceplate carrier out of MDF and fix it to the top of the bowl with hot-melt glue. About five or six blobs will do it. You might need to shape your carrier with a shoulder so that it fits the top of the bowl in a self-centering way. Still make sense?

    Then when you've done the foot, just knock the bowl off the carrier, or if you like get the missus' hair dryer and warm it all up and then knock it off.

    As for stripping the bark off your burl, it might be worth checking on the forum or with suppliers to see if it will look good. I've no experience with debarked silky burl.

    Best of luck with the project.
    Cheers, Ern

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Canberra
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    633

    Smile

    Toasty turned a recess in which your jaws fit in expansion mode.
    I had actually planned on gripping the foot but stoopid me didn't measure enough times and cut the foot too small for the 100mm jaws *sigh*

    With my burl in particular I chose a recessed foot as the piece was quite out of balance. I would have lost too much of the outside natural edge trying to make a spigot foot wide enough for the bowl to stand on without falling on its side. So it was easier to slice off the bottom and keep balancing off the lathe until I removed enough that it wouldn't topple.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
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    Default

    silky burl???????
    everything is something, for a reason:confused:

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Tuntable Falls Nimbin NSW
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    Default Thanks RSSER/ Toasty

    Thanks for the tips, and it is very clear, and your not teaching me to suck eggs! I am a turning novice, but enjoying the challenge.
    ROWIE- Silky burl is my abreviation for Silky Oak burl. A tree that grows prolificly up here and even down Sydney way. In the Grevillia family, with yellow flowers ,and gets to be a good size!

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Emerald, QLD
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    Default

    Don't forget to post a pic of the finished product Cedar I've never seen a burl on a softwood like Silky so it should be interesting!
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Tuntable Falls Nimbin NSW
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TTIT
    Don't forget to post a pic of the finished product Cedar I've never seen a burl on a softwood like Silky so it should be interesting!
    No worries TTIT. Might be a while though, got a few other projects on the hop! Cheers

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