Thread: aluminum in turning

Aluminum will oxidise very quickly in air, so it may for a short time after turning/ sanding look especially shiny, but after this the luster will be a little dulled, as you are probably used to seeing aluminum.

If you are super keen, it is possible to sand aluminium when placed in epoxy resin. When the epoxy sets the aluminium will keep it's lustre, but will have an epoxy coating, which for your intended application is not exactly ideal, and won't ressult in the effect I assume you are going for anyway, so it is a moot point. I have done this but only for bonding aluminum to carbonfibre in order to avoid delamination due to the oxidised layer, so not actually for the shiny effect.

It may be possible however to use the above concept to sand/finish the aluminium, that is, sanding the metal when a coating is present, to prevent the mentioned oxidation which is th slightly dull finish we usually see on aluminium surfaces. Might be possible to do this using for example using a cut and polish like EEE and then sealing?

Sorry for being long winded, and in parts on a full of jargon, hopefully this helps though.

Hi MFU,
I'm not sure if this is the same, but I use Alum. Tubing for Ferrules on some of my Tools, & I can shine it up pretty good with 0000 Steel Wool.
It seems to hold it's lustre.

I think Pewter is the stuff you want to use, easy to turn, low melting point and stays shiny (technical term ) Looks like silver but much cheaper.

Thanks all. That confirms what I thought. I have yet to try pewter. The effect I am trying to get is a thin sheet of metallic which would look like a silver line across the bowl. Ill keep Googling and report back any success.

What would you use for glue in a setup like that?

You bring up an interesting point Phred.

I have given a bit of thought as to how to glue luminium and other non-wood sheeting into timber for tuning purposes.

The common answer is epoxy or super gue

I worry about the possibility of delamination with this sort of set up and have thought of drilling holes in the non-wood sheeting so that the glue is actually bonded to two wood surfaces. This should decrease the possibility of delamination.

G'day MFU,
What you probably want are powdered metal/s. Available locally (Aust. metal powder supplies p/l.)
If you want to have a look at an inlay of brass, have a look on Vern's great (TiTT's) website - the front page I think you'll see a vase with an inlay.
Easy to use, easy on tools.
Bruce.

MFU
I have made a pen from aluminium and sprayed it with Incralac aka Wattyl Clear laquuer finish for copper,brass etc. My pen is still shiny.
As for keeping it stuck, why not try super glueing a couple of pins on the back and use them for additional holding power. Of course you will have to drill a couple of holes in your timber to match. Can not see why that would not work.

Turn and fit the aluminum then polish it with a metal polish, not steel wool,.

Brasso will do or you can use a cloth buff in a hi-speed drill while the job is turning on the lathe and use TRIPOLI metal polish.

As soon as the required finish is attained , ensure that the surface is clean of polish residue, then spray with a clear lacquer.

Cheers,

Jeff

As an adadge. Solder on some pins. Just do not use to much heat to discolour the main piece.