Thread: apple tree chisel handles

they will most likely split.

wait for them to dry or speed up the process,( there are some threads on this) either by mircrowaving or the mix of liquids. do a search for microwaving wood and for fast wood drying formula and you should see the threads that i'm reffereing to.

thanks SS thats what i was hoping i should do

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=30738

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...microwave+wood

they are links to good threads.

in the second one, read skew chiDamn's post especially

don't they use PEG anymore?

No.

And drying any fruit wood is a chancy business.

Some guys have success with thin-walled vessels by turning green in one go and then microwaving.

tashammer]don't they use PEG anymore?

Can do if you wish, its dearer than the above links and is leaves a finish that is not conducive to a lot of other finishes

I use soap, to keep the cracks away. In fact, I mixed up a new batch today. It's done me better than anything else so far, but it's not fast, that's for sure.
After reading Skew's blurb on nuking, I'm sure gonna give it a try.
Thanks for posting this question, Tanii....

i knew i bought swmbo a new micro wave for some reason ( the old one still works with a few squeaks ) so guess what i can use that for
thanks guys for the help
ps my first go at wood turning on a gmc that hasnt got a face plate but it has got a 4 jaw chuck which wobbles

thanks for that info on nuking and also the drying cabinets and using dead fridges.

Tell me does it make a lot of difference if the box is insulated than not? The old drying cabinets weren't insulated.

Hmm, lot of sheet metal there, more hmm, home made sheet metal brake, tool boxes etc?

Just as a btw, apple might be a waste for tool handles, or worse. A good bit of hard or fibrous wood usually works best.

On the other hand with your wobbling chuck you could prob turn an oval handle for fun ;-}

Originally Posted by tashammer

Tell me does it make a lot of difference if the box is insulated than not? The old drying cabinets weren't insulated.

Not a lot. The basic idea is just to keep the wood a few degrees warmer than the outside ambient temperature, so it'll dry that bit quicker. Too much warmer and you're getting into the realm of making kindling, unless you're thinking in terms of so much warmer that by all rights it should be considered a kiln. Then insulation would matter.

Even so, I think an insulated cabinet would be more economical if you also added a thermostat so the heat-source wouldn't need to be running constantly. Not by much for a 10W light bulb, but over time...

BTW, the drying cabinet method is better suited to the colder months in our southern states; if you consider 25° to be a "cold" day then a drying cabinet won't really be of much use. [shrug]

Originally Posted by rsser

Just as a btw, apple might be a waste for tool handles, or worse. A good bit of hard or fibrous wood usually works best.

Agreed, a hard dense timber is preferred for handles, particularly if they are to be struck wth even a mallet. My understanding is that the fruit tree's forte is for carving. Lime for example is a favoured wood. Perhaps the carvers could help on this one.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

My understanding is that the fruit tree's forte is for carving. Lime for example is a favoured wood. Perhaps the carvers could help on this one.

Regards
Paul

Just pointing out how common names can lead us astray.
The lime (also known as linden or basswood) favoured by carvers is not our well-known citrus. It is from trees of the Tilia species, deciduous trees from the Northern hemisphere.

Originally Posted by Wizened of Oz

Just pointing out how common names can lead us astray.
The lime (also known as linden or basswood) favoured by carvers is not our well-known citrus. It is from trees of the Tilia species, deciduous trees from the Northern hemisphere.

OOPS!

Thanks for the imput.

Regards
Paul