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  1. #1
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    Default Is there a way of attaching a pen mandrel to this lathe?

    Hi all,

    Im new to wood turning and i recently bought a cheap lathe to see whether i wanted to take it up as a hobby. I recently bought a beginners pen turning kit which contains an MT2 mandrel (because i thought thats what i needed), but getting it into the lathe has been problematic. As you can see in the images, i have a threaded piece coming from the headstock, so the mandrel obviously doesnt fit into it. Is there some way to get this working? Ive tried removing the threaded piece, but it doesnt look like it comes off at all. Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
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  3. #2
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    Does the tailstock have a MT2, if so fit a chuck and center to the head stock and mount the mandrel the opposite way to normal.
    A competent metal metal worker would be able to make a piece thread on the headstock incorporating a center.
    The MT is removable on some mandrels, this would allow mounting in a Jacobs style style chuck adapted to the Head stock. Just some ideas I can't think of any methods without some fabrication of parts
    buying a really budget lathe can have it's drawbacks and quite a few prospective turners have been put off by this.

  4. #3
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    Welcome to the forum.
    Thats the problem with those lathes, things that fit them are few and far between. I am not aware of anything commercially available for those. #2 Morse is about the universial woodlathe fitting. Some have had adapters made for various bits and pieces but unless you know someone that can make it for you then the cost will likely rule it out.
    Regards
    John

  5. #4
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    Welcome to the forum

  6. #5
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    Welcome.

    One of the woodies groups Cunmberland use to make a threaded adaptor as many newbies bought these types of lathes. It is basicly threaded bar to suit the spindle, at the other end a threaded rod for pen turning to fit it. A threaded end to tighten a brass nut to hold all in place. A small spot drilled area to place the tailstock centre.

    Ray

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  7. #6
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    Thanks for all the responses. @China, I thought it might be the case that I'd have to have something specially made. There is no way of fitting it to either the headstock or the tailstock unfortunately. @wheelinround, thanks for the tip! I'll try to track someone down and see if I can organise a piece. Another idea I had was to have something 3D printed. Seemed like a pretty good alternative, but I dont know whether anyone has tried 3D printed components on lathes - last thing I want is for it to be unable to withstand the rotations and break as it's being used.

  8. #7
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    Before going to the expense / trouble of making up custom parts - do your self a favor, check how well the head stock spindle and tail stock quill align.

    IF they align well you at least have a chance of turning pens.

    IF NOT, don't put your self through the wringer of firstly modifying stuff then having all the hassles of trying to work out why "my pen is out of round?"

    That style of lathe is not known for build quality so I would definitely check alignment first!

    This recent thread explains - Alignment, how much does it matter? (woodworkforums.com)

    Its also a topic that appears regularly - No morse taper (woodworkforums.com)
    Mobyturns

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  9. #8
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    There are chucks available to fit, but they're as rare as hens teeth, are normally independent jaw chucks (ie. not scroll chucks) and I wouldn't count on locating one any time soon.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bosshard View Post
    @wheelinround, thanks for the tip! I'll try to track someone down and see if I can organise a piece. Another idea I had was to have something 3D printed. Seemed like a pretty good alternative, but I dont know whether anyone has tried 3D printed components on lathes - last thing I want is for it to be unable to withstand the rotations and break as it's being used.
    If I was to make such a device via 3D printing, I'd design it so that I could either wire-wrap & epoxy or fit a copper ferrule to the outside.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  10. #9
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    I started out with a lathe like yours and the best thing about it was the motor gave up the ghost after about a month and I was able to return it and get my money back. I immediately purchased a "proper" lathe (Hare and Forbes WL-14v - just cheap chinese-made, less than $700) but it was a solid lathe with "normal" specs, variable speed, MT2 head and tail and with access to a host of chucks and accessories. It was only 0.5 hp but it handled most things I wanted to turn and set me on the right track to really enjoy my turning. I have since upgraded but still use the cheaper lathe. I think the frustrations coming from the limitations of a lathe like the one you have could possibly turn you off turning and that would be a shame. Think about upgrading to something like the WL-14V (there are a number of simlar lathes available) before you sink dollars into trying to get the lathe you have to maybe do what you want.

  11. #10
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    Hey,

    I was given a similar lathe. For the sake of limiting frustration, I'll mainly use it for rough shaping (eg. roughing out hammer handles) on this lathe and use 'proper' ones at my club.

    Mine came with a 'face plate' that screws into the pictured thread. One idea could be to screw a blank of wood to the face vice, and then turn/bore out the inverse of the Morse Taper.

  12. #11
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    The major limitations with the spindle design on these lathes is that the quality control of spindle thread machining is not up to scratch and there is no registration surface machined into the spindle to align face plates or chucks (register).

    Those two issues make it difficult to ensure that any accessory, i.e. scroll chuck, face plate, cup chuck will actually run true.

    The most efficient way to set this lathe up for pen turning is to take the mandrel shaft out of a pen mandrel and use a Vermec ER25 Collet chuck with a 7 mm collet to secure it on the spindle.

    However that requires either a spindle extension from the lathe spindle thread to a commonly used spindle thread (i.e. 1" x 8 tpi, or 1" x 10 tpi or M30 / M33) to then receive an ER25 / ER32 collet adaptor. OR have a dedicated ER25 / ER32 collet adaptor custom machined for your lathes spindle thread 3/4" x ? tpi.

    The costs exceed the value of the lathe so it would be cheaper overall to purchase a small mini lathe with either a MT1 or MT2 head stock & tail stock.

    Or if you have a friendly machinist mate you could modify something like this Toolex | Wood Lathe Screw Chuck 3/4"W to accept the pen mandrel shaft.

    Spindle Adaptor


    Spindle Extension


    http://www.kurthertzog.com/articles/...oldingtfmb.pdf
    Mobyturns

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  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mobyturns View Post
    The most efficient way to set this lathe up for pen turning is to take the mandrel shaft out of a pen mandrel and use a Vermec ER25 Collet chuck with a 7 mm collet to secure it on the spindle.

    However that requires either a spindle extension from the lathe spindle thread to a commonly used spindle thread (i.e. 1" x 8 tpi, or 1" x 10 tpi or M30 / M33) to then receive an ER25 / ER32 collet adaptor. OR have a dedicated ER25 / ER32 collet adaptor custom machined for your lathes spindle thread 3/4" x ? tpi.
    I contacted Vermec as I could not locate the Collet Chuck package listed on their website anymore. Enzo advises that they no longer offer the package of ER25 / ER32 collet adaptor, collets, collet nut & collet spanner as a stock line. However, they can still manufacture the ER25 / ER32 collet adaptor to match your lathe spindle thread to order on request for those who wish to purchase the other items online / elsewhere.

    Another casualty of the global economy. It is still the best and safest Collet Chuck available for wood turners imo.
    Mobyturns

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