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  1. #1
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    Default Attempted deception!

    Pics first, explanation once you've had a sticky.
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Emerald, QLD
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    This piece started out purely as a hollowing exercise to give my BIL a shot at the Proforme. When I roughed down the outside it was only to get it to maximum diameter of timber - shape wasn't involved at all - obviously Hollowed to about 10mm or so wall thickness, it then bounced around the shed for over a year until I needed something to test my laser-gauge with the '' hollowing support. I then took the walls to 3 to 4mm to prove the laser system, still with out worrying about the shape. Had no intention of doing anything else with it until it started whispering at me "c'mon dude - ya reckon ya' can fix anything - fix me - gimme a makeover". So who am I to knock back a challenge.
    What I wanted to do was take peoples attention away from the crappy shape. Considered cutting the top off and calling it a 'calabash' but in Orstraylyun that translates to 'crappy shape' anyway. Thought about bands and rim textures and so on but I figured they might actually make the shape look worse. Then I wondered if drawing attention directly to the problem area would help disguise it.

    So I want to know.....
    A. Do you agree the original shape was crappy?
    B. Do you think the 'worms' worked?
    C. Is the pyrography at the overlaps too much?
    D. How would you have 'hidden' the shape?

    Be brutal people - I can handle it (in my best septic accent!)
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

  4. #3
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    Jun 2006
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    Berwick, Melbourne
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    G'day TTIT

    Love the shape after the event, love the design and love the intrigue. Don't like the pyrography, bit of an overkill methinks. Kid of detracts from the craftsmanship and skill, both of of which you far too much of.

    Cheers
    Shorty
    ________________________________________
    Cheers
    Shorty

    If I can't turn it I'll burn it

  5. #4
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    Oct 2008
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    kings park Vic.
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    Same here TTIT.I like it better without pyrography.I love the design.cheers Tony.

  6. #5
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    Tallahassee FL USA
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    Default

    A: No.
    B: Yes.
    C: Yes.
    D: Dashed if I know.

    I think you could have stopped at the carving. Very cool either way, though.

    Joe
    Of course truth is stranger than fiction.
    Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Lambton, Newcastle, NSW, Australia
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    Default

    Inclined to agree with Joe, the pyro is ok but the plane carving I think was better.
    Instagram: mark_aylward
    www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au


    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

  8. #7
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    Jun 2004
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    G'day Vern,
    Yep, the shape is "crappy", but remember it was not pre-designed, but simply "grew". In my opinion, the carved holes are too circular. If they were more tear drop shape, ie more pointed towards the bottom, the profile may have been a bit more concealed. May still work if the circular bottom to the carvings be elongated towards the bottom of the bowl???
    The fullness of the bottom would be better about one third of the total height and the narrowness of the neck, two thirds the height from the bottom. Just my opinion.
    Still a good effort to achieve 3 -4 mm wall thickness.
    Jim
    Sometimes in the daily challenges that life gives us, we miss what is really important...

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Shailer Park, Brisbane
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    42
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    Default

    Hey TTIT,

    Nice work - it is a real art to asses how a project is going and adjust accordingly. Something we all aspire to really. I do like the carving over the form, but i think the pyrography makes the carving lines very heavy.

    To hide the shape (which is not terrible btw) i would suggest having more carving around the base. I think the carving at the top made it look more bottom heavy. If the eye could follow the carvings up and down, the form behind it would become secondary and might maintain balance. In this case you would need to make some solid sketches around the base and see how it actually looks.

    What do you think?
    Cheers,
    Shannon.

  10. #9
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    Jun 2007
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    Otautahi , Te Wa'hi Pounamu ( The Mainland) , NZ
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    TTIT,
    I reckon , scrap the pyro , and finish the carving at the top .
    By that I mean , complete the Knotwork .
    Return the threads back up and into the weave . Knotwork , and especially Celtic Knotwork , very rarely , if ever , has loose ends .
    I like the shape and proportion as is , it has an earthenware beaker look about it

  11. #10
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    Nov 2004
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    Port Pirie SA
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    Starting with the worms area a bit thicker would have given it more natural/organic look, you'd have to work down the areas inbetween the worms too blend in the bottom half so the worms would stand out proud.
    ....................................................................

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Emerald, QLD
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    Default

    Thanks for the input everyone As soon as I started the pyrography I suspected I wasn't going to get the look I was after. Wanted that aged-look like really old carvings where all the nooks and crannies are dark and dirty. Any idea how you get that look in a hurry???????

    Quote Originally Posted by powderpost View Post
    ....... In my opinion, the carved holes are too circular. If they were more tear drop shape, ie more pointed towards the bottom, the profile may have been a bit more concealed. May still work if the circular bottom to the carvings be elongated towards the bottom of the bowl???
    Quote Originally Posted by Robomanic View Post
    ...... To hide the shape (which is not terrible btw) i would suggest having more carving around the base. I think the carving at the top made it look more bottom heavy................
    What do you think?
    I reckon you both might be onto something there - I've got it in my mitt right now and I'm thinking about extending the cut-outs downwards like negatives of the worms - could work!
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Pensacola Florida
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TTIT View Post
    Thanks for the input everyone As soon as I started the pyrography I suspected I wasn't going to get the look I was after. Wanted that aged-look like really old carvings where all the nooks and crannies are dark and dirty. Any idea how you get that look in a hurry???????
    Shoot the "nooks & crannies" spots with black paint . Let the paint flash dry for about 15 minutes, then shoot over the black very lightly with brown paint, let dry for another 15 minutes, then follow with a very, very light dusting of off-white spray paint.
    After the whole affair has dried, sand the high areas around the "nooks & crannies" ....this should give you the desired effect
    Cheers,
    Ed

    Do something that is stupid and fun today, then run like hell !!!

  14. #13
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    Sep 2008
    Location
    North Carolina, USA
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    I think without the pyrography it is not strong enough of an image, with the pyro too much.

    I think what Ed Suggests will do what you had in mind. I would seal the whole piece with comething clear before painting so the paint doesn't bleed into the grain.

    I like the loose tails

    Overall I like it.

    Paul
    Last edited by Paul39; 13th November 2008 at 03:58 AM. Reason: add comment

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
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    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
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    Default

    Don't sit it on a high shelf, it looks better when viewed from slightly above. (lower than eye height)
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers View Post
    Don't sit it on a high shelf, it looks better when viewed from slightly above. (lower than eye height)

    That would be on the floor for me. the name says it all

    Cheers
    Shorty
    ________________________________________
    Cheers
    Shorty

    If I can't turn it I'll burn it

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