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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    Default U-Beaut, You Bet

    Hi all,
    Just a quick rave. Finally bit the bullet and go the polishing book, EEE and Shellawax cream and now the Rotary Sander.

    Here' my opinion FWIW:
    Book isn't really necessay for turners. Turning section should just read "Buy U-Beaut products and use as directed."
    EEE and Shellawax creams: Why, Why, Why didn't I buy these earlier. Would have saved a lot of time and money trying to get a good finish.
    Rotary Sander: Possibly best thing since sliced bread?

    Having said that U-Beaut products are all you need though, I turn a fair bit of red and spotted gum. Both have fairly large pores (I think that's what they are called) and would like to fill them. Have used several coats of shellac previously and finished off with shellac/boiled linseed mix. Not bad, but takes a long time and finish is still not very glossy. Can shellac be used under EEE and Shellawax to fill pores?

    Grizz.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Romsey Victoria
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    Default

    Fricken' Crawler
    Photo Gallery

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Perth WA
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    1,764

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Grunt
    Fricken' Crawler
    Grizz is stealing your thunder Grunt

    Cheers
    Squizzy

    "It is better to be ignorant and ask a stupid question than to be plain Stupid and not ask at all" {screamed by maths teacher in Year 8}

  5. #4
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    Sep 2004
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    Default

    Hey, worth a try. Maybe they will send me some freebies .

    Grizz.

  6. #5
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    Aug 2003
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    Perth (NOR)
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    Default

    Yep. It is usually not a requisite to use a sealer under Shellawax and in fact the Book doesn't recommend it, because it would interfere with the Shellawax bonding with the timber during the burnishing. ( Seems like you may have missed that bit in the Book....lol. )

    However if you need to fill the wood like you are doing, there is no reason why you can't use the Shellawax over it. It may interfere with the bonding but the finish is still excellent. I use thin ca and sanding dust and the Shellawax still works very well. I also from time to time use normal brown shellac over dark timber and blond shellac ( thats the type that gets it all wrong ) over light timber instead of normal sanding sealer, if I really feel that a sealer is required, before finishing with The Swax. You can use EEE over Swax and vice versa.

    I still need to check up what the difference between Shellawax and Shellawax Glow is. Maybe Neil could enlighten me gently!

    Have a good Easter all.


  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
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    12,746

    Default

    Shellawax glow is unbleached shellac-based I think.

    My take is that the Shellawax family works best on fine grained timber (that point might have been made on the Finishing forum).

    If you want to accentuate the grain contrast, use an oil-based finish. If you don't, use a nitrocellulose sanding sealer and wax over that. Or bleached shellac and wax.

    Want to fill pores? Try wet-sanding an oil-based finish. Organoil is good for this, but I found you have to come back three weeks later and knock back the raised grain.

    I go through fads; at the moment it's Danish Oil. Has been Organoil, Arboroil, Shellawax, nitro sanding sealer and wax, sometimes just wax. Wax .. another story.

    The question is: what does the finish add to the piece? Do you want to be looking at matt, semi- or high gloss? In other words, the grain, the gleam or your reflection?
    Cheers, Ern

  8. #7
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    Default

    Hi Ern,
    I've tried the oil finish and found that it's pretty good but takes a hell of a lot of work and time to get it up to a good gloss. Perhaps if I was to use shellac to fill the pores and then sand back to bare wood in between I may not have too many probs. BTW, did read the part in the book about not using sanding sealers etc, but figured that, since Shellawax is based on shellac (correct me if I'm wrong), then it should still bond by melting the shellac that's on the piece.

    I have tried Shellawax on a piece that I'd done with shellac and boiled linseed oil and it did come up very nice but not quite good enough. That was a piece of redgum that I managed to fill all the pores on but took a long time and a lot of effort.

    Grizz.

  9. #8
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    Perth (NOR)
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    Default

    Grizz

    Try a few layers of Sw, burnish between each application and soon you'll have a very high gloss on those shellac/boiled linseed oil pieces.


  10. #9
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    Jan 2002
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Grizz
    Hi Ern,
    I've tried the oil finish and found that it's pretty good but takes a hell of a lot of work and time to get it up to a good gloss.
    Grizz.
    Yeah. You can buff it to increase the lustre - I did this with Rustin's Danish oil after the 3rd coat and while not yet set and got too high a shine for my taste.

    Turners often wax over the oil finish to increase the shine.

    Getting a gloss out of wax will take a few coats and it may not be high enough for you - try poly perhaps.
    Cheers, Ern

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    58
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    105

    Default

    Just a quick question
    where can i buy U-Beaut products in the northern Melbourne burbs
    Lucas
    If at first you don't succeed
    Destroy all the evidence that shows you tired

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    The Rock
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    Default

    Thanks for all the tips people. One thing I think I need to clear up though. Ern, I like the gloss that you get with Shellawax but am not impressed with products that just seem to sit on the surface. Maybe it's just me, but I feel a lot better about a piece that doesn't have varnish on it.

    Grizz.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Beachport, South Oz, the best little town on the planet.
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    Default

    DON'T USE A SEALER UNDER SHELLAWAX!

    Shellawax is designed to be burnished INTO the timber, it is not meant to sit on top of some crappy sealer! FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS! Sand to the desired grit, usually at least 400, if you wish 'sand' some more use EEE Ultrashine and then burnish the Shellawax into your timber. You will get a high gloss, you will get a longlasting finish, you will get a finish that is IN the timber not ON the timber like a cheap layer of "varnish".

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
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    Perth (NOR)
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    1,386

    Default

    Stroes Christopher, I think even people that dont have a computer have seen that violent reply reflected off their colorbond sheds. A bit over the top I would think.

    :eek:

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
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    Default

    'Where to buy ubeaut in the Northern suburbs?'

    Nowhere I know of. I buy off the web and have the stuff posted. Saves a lot in time and travel costs.
    Cheers, Ern

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    Mackay Qld
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    Default

    [QUOTE=rsser]Yeah. You can buff it to increase the lustre - I did this with Rustin's Danish oil after the 3rd coat and while not yet set and got too high a shine for my taste.


    Ern
    A dining room table I made 16 months ago is still a little sticky. (Scandinavian oil it was called) I haven't had the time to get around to doing anything about it (And didn't know what)
    Have you had this happen? If so, what is the solution?
    Cheers
    Mick
    Mick

    avantguardian

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