Thread: One billion hours and I still can't get it

Ya not the only one mate......Did turn a few pens up

Mick!!!

Always takes me a few to get back into the swing. Mark out in pencil, define the extremities with the long point and then roll the short point leaving the centre line. The smaller the skew, the easier I find I can roll a bead.

Come to CORBS' get together on Sunday and we can do 's demo again, I've done it a few times

Originally Posted by Evanism

...I lost my mojo!

I know where it is.

I got it.

I will give it back tomorrow.

I was told by a trade Turner that catches happen when you don't concentrate on what your doing! don't give up! keep practicing the skew can be your best tool!

Chuck1 is correct when you lose concentration you get sloppy it happens to the best of us when you get tired and have been doing to much you lose concentration so don't bother when you are tired but as I always tell the beginning turners the more time you can spend on the tools the better,it all comes down to practice practice practice. Don't be scared off by catches we all get them get back on the horse and go again.
Regards Rod.

Originally Posted by Evanism

Practice, practice, practice. Beads and coves, beads and coves. I did 50 lengths of them in 90x90 pine 200 long. A zillion.

I had to spend some time off the tools and you know what? I'll be fragged if I can do them now. Went down tonight for the first time in a MONTH to have some fun and bugger me! Catch, rip, catch, CATCH....mumble sharpen...catch, gouge, slicccceeeeeee......fragggggiiiin heck!

I lost my mojo!

A few of things I have found from experience that might help you out (Am assuming this is a skew you are trying to tame here

1. Clean off the tool _before_ cutting, you should only be using the very corner when turning the bead, if you get dust anywhere along the blade then you are presenting to tool too flat to the job.
2. Given it's such a large diameter, ensure the tool rest is above center. I've found it easier to start out with something about 1 1/2 inches in diameter.
3. Check your angle on the tool, a 30-35 degree bevel cut should be fine, a 20 degree bevel does make things harder. Also make sure you have broken the hard corners off the length of the tool, this will make it easier to slide and roll on the tool rest.
4. Try using a smaller rather than larger skew. It's easier to manage and there is less of it to dig in
5. When you do did in, think about where the blade/tool is positioned. Experiment with changing small things, your stance for example (remember you should be standing face on to the lathe), are you positioned to far to the left or right of the job? Tool height not right? Remember, practice is important but just doing the same thing over and over again will give you the same result so small changes and try again is the go.
6. Check your tool rest, any divots etc will make life hard. If it's not smooth then get a fine file onto it until it is!

Another thing that is a fantastic idea is (if you have one) take your 3/8 inch parting tool and grind it like you would a skew with a 20 degree angle across the blade (leave the angle of the point the same). When I was starting out I used this tool and it worked great and it meant that with one tool I could part down to various diameters, do beads, shear cuts to clean up areas and as an added bonus is perfect for cutting dovetails to when fitting spindles into a chuck.

Without actually seeing what you are doing, it's difficult to tell what you are doing wrong, it's probably going to be a couple of simple things. Stick with it and concentrate; remember the basics and when you do get frustrated step away from the lathe and have a nice hot cup of tea. The chisel is a fantastic tool and with correct use there is very little or sanding to do after you have finished your job which is great.

M.

I've learned twice how to do beads with a skew. But since I don't do much of it have now forgotten twice And get catches when I try.

I'm of the opinion (well, conviction) that with turning there's always more than one way of skinning a cat.

So for beads on a spindle I'm much more at home with a detail gouge with a long bevel.

For decorative small beads on faceplate work I use a dedicated beading tool. A few of those is a bit of an investment and a deal of skill is needed to sharpen them. Talking here about the Henry Taylor version that has three bevels at the end of rectangular section bar with a flute down the middle.

Some time ago and I did a comparo of a skew and an HT beading tool on some crappy NIP in faceplate mode. The HT left a cleaner finish but at a higher cost in maintenance and purchase terms.