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  1. #1
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    Sep 2009
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    armidale.nsw.australia
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    Default which bowl gouge.?

    Hi guys,
    My old chinese bowl gouge has had it, s last sharpen
    So it, s time to buy a new one,,,,, but which one is best
    value and hardwaring,, what is best size? Make etc?
    I would like to get aussie made, are there any?
    I have had a look on CWS, where there are a few
    options, but would like to know what others think
    differerant steel, which size?
    Cheers smiife

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Banora point,NSW.
    Posts
    172

    Default Bowl gouge

    Mate,

    I have the bowl gouge set in the below link, its great value and very good quality - highly recommended !!!

    http://www.garypye.com/Turning-Tools...stem-p726.html

    Regards,
    Cam

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    648

    Default

    If you ask 12 turners this question you will probably get 10 different answers.

    For me the Woodcut 12mm for shaping or a 10mm Jerry Glaser for final cuts.

    The best bowl gouge is the one you have in your hand and are using.

    Cheers

    Tim
    Some days I turns thisaway, somedays I turns thataway and other days I don't give a stuff so I don't turn at all.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Grovedale, Victoria Australia
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    3,808

    Default

    P&N are Aussie

    Woodcut are New Zealand

    Robert Sorby are UK

    Record are UK

    Henry Taylor are UK

    GPW, Woodfast , etc are chinese or asian variants
    Jim Carroll
    One Good Turn Deserves Another. CWS, Vicmarc, Robert Sorby, Woodcut, Tormek, Woodfast
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  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Dundowran Beach
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    Post

    I have Four: A P&N which I like very much, A Henry Taylor which is close to the P&N,

    A Hamlet which is pretty good and a Robert Sorby that I don't like much.

  7. #6
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    Sep 2009
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Carroll View Post
    P&N are Aussie

    Woodcut are New Zealand

    Robert Sorby are UK

    Record are UK

    Henry Taylor are UK

    GPW, Woodfast , etc are chinese or asian variants
    Thanks jim,
    Are vicmark aussie?
    Cheers smiife

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    Mareeba Far Nth Qld
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tim the Timber Turner View Post
    If you ask 12 turners this question you will probably get 10 different answers.

    For me the Woodcut 12mm for shaping or a 10mm Jerry Glaser for final cuts.

    The best bowl gouge is the one you have in your hand and are using.

    Cheers

    Tim
    There is the answer to your question.
    Jim
    Sometimes in the daily challenges that life gives us, we miss what is really important...

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    sydney
    Age
    36
    Posts
    1,112

    Default

    Vicmarc 12mm
    thompson 12mm U shape
    DANGER!!!!
    I'm Dyslexic Spelling may offend!!!!!

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    shoalhaven n.s.w
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    1,210

    Default

    I like my P&N and I have 3/8 sorby, I usually go for the P&N it's a 16 mm pretty robust and a 8 mm that I have not used much!

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    North Carolina, USA
    Posts
    2,286

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tim the Timber Turner View Post
    If you ask 12 turners this question you will probably get 10 different answers.

    Cheers

    Tim
    Only 10, more like 15.
    So much timber, so little time.

    Paul

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    clayton
    Posts
    58

    Default Bowl gouges

    Hi Team, Only 10 answers, don't ask about sharpening. I have Sorby, Hamlet, Woodcut, P+N and my favourite Thompson. Do I know how t use them, No. I like Thompson for the steel, finish and the price is reasonable relative to quality and you make your own custom handles. The Thompson Vee gouge is preferred over the U shape. P+N steel is good pity about the flute shape in gouges (off centre) great for Skews scrapers etc. Hamlet steel is likewise good. I purchased a double ended woodcut 9mm bowl gouge but have not used it enough to comment. I don't like Sorby, others do. The handles on most tools are too small for my liking so all my future tools will be Thompson with my own handles. Now learning to use them another story. Jay

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
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    12,833

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jay h View Post
    P+N steel is good pity about the flute shape in gouges (off centre) great for Skews scrapers etc. Hamlet steel is likewise good.
    When considering value for money, P&N (unhandled) are up there.

    The trick is to not buy on-line, but to go into the store and look over the tools yourself, paying particular attention to the flutes. Off-centre? Back on the shelf. Nasty ridges & scores the length of the flute? Back on the shelf.

    Once you have a good one, then the first thing to do once it follows you home is to use a small, rounded slip-stone (or s/paper wrapped around a wooden form or...) and hone the inside of the flute until that sucker shines. Remember, it's the flute that is the cutting edge and if it's 'ragged' then the cutting edge will be too!

    It sounds like a lot of work... and is... but the end result is worth it. They're made from damned good steel and the only real difference in use between my 8mm P&N gouge & my 8mm Thompson Kryo is time between sharpens. The Kryo lasts quite a bit longer, but cost a helluva lot more. So I only use it for finishing cuts now... the P&N is my main goto.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc (AKA "Ghost who posts." )

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    North Carolina, USA
    Posts
    2,286

    Default

    Wot Skew said about tuning above. I have Crown, Thompson, Henry Taylor, Chinese from Penn State Industries, unknown HSS reputedly from Sheffield. Three are 5/8 in, two 1/2, and one 3/8.

    When sharpened on a 120 grit dry grinder using a fixed jig to a mild fingernail grind, they all cut about the same for about the same length of time.

    I do have the habit of when a tool is not easily making shavings to give it a quick swipe on the grinder.

    I think there is more difference in how the tool is sharpened and how it is handled than in the brand name.

    I have several OLD, OLD, carbon steel tools that cut better than the HSS for a shorter time. I use those, freshly sharpened and honed for the final cuts before sanding.

    My most recent is a Buck Brothers cast steel spindle gouge. Rolled up on its side it puts a finish on the inside or outside of a bowl as nice as a skew puts on a spindle.
    So much timber, so little time.

    Paul

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Mosgiel New Zealand
    Posts
    221

    Default

    My go to is a woodcut I buy the tip 12mm, and fit it on a bright steel shaft then it fits in the woodcut handle or crown revelution .

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    armidale.nsw.australia
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    Default

    Hi guys,
    WOW, ask 13 turners and get 13 differing replies
    Thanks to all that have taken time to offer an opinion
    very much appreciated,
    Lots of info to take in and compare the pros and cons
    Cheers smiife

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