Thread: bowl gouge at 55 degrees for bottom of bowls

Best take note of what Ern says Mick!! He is a true fount of information and good tips when it comes to sharpening!!

St Carborundum, the sage of sharpeners

Mick, do as Ern "suggests", then once you have established the correct bevel, it's a 20 second job on the Torment.


Like all honing after you establish the edge . . . until you have a catch and take a chunk out of the blessed edge . . . The big Thommo needs some more love and attention, Damn it!

I reground the gouge - it did take some time. Hopefully I have removed enough of the wings to avoid the catches. If you don't think so, please let me know.
cheers
Mick

Mick, it still appears that the nose is slightly behind the wings.

Still too big. Like this is what you are aiming for.
after regrind side view.jpg The red line.

Originally Posted by

Still too big. Like this is what you are aiming for.
after regrind side view.jpg The red line.

I did another re-grind. I am not sure if it is quite as much off as above but I did try it out and did not get a catch. I did however have some difficulty getting a flowing smooth cut. I expect the small amount of steel remaining in the centre does not help but my skill level will also contribute!!! I will play around a bit more getting it properly sharp but will also consider making it flatter across the whole top (as per Pat's original suggestion - like a roughing gouge).
It has been interesting for me as it is the first time I have tried to change the shape of a tool. I have also very much appreciated all the help I have been given. Pictures of the new regrind attached.
thanks
Mick

Looking much better.

Mick, 's comments are spot on.

Holding the gouge in your cutting position while some one else hand rotates the bowl slowly is a very good teaching aid as it lets you see where the cutting edge actually is but also where the wings or corners of the gouge are as well. Developing spatial awareness will come with practice - where all of the gouges parts are in relation to the bowl etc particularly the cutting area of the gouge - the part of the gouge that is actually doing the cutting which may not necessarily be the area of the tip or wing you think is doing the cutting. Sometimes putting graphite from a pencil lead on the wings of the gouge similar to using a marker pen to highlight the grinding area when sharpening is very handy when teaching by hand rotating a bowl as it marks both the bowl and gouge.

With the curved cutting edge on the flute wing it also makes it much more difficult, or should I really say a little more unpredictable, to do a pull or shear cut on the outside of a bowl.

You re getting the hang of it plus you have done a good job in maintaing a continuous flowing grind rather than a stepped or faceted grind.

Glenn Lucas - YouTube

For the bottom feeder type of gouges, specifically ground for going through the transition and across the bottom of the bowl, I have found a more open flute design, more C shape rather than V, is much easier to steer through those areas. The deeper flutes like you have are more difficult. The bottom feeders are similar to a spindle roughing gouge in grind, as in more square across the top of the flutes with little or even no sweep to the wings. When cutting you cut more with the nose part of the gouge, and not with the wings. It is important to roll the gouge on its side to prevent catches, though they will cut nicely with the flutes straight up and down as long as you do not cut up on the wing where the tool becomes unbalances and rolls into the cut. Big catch, and you know the rest of the story. These are not roughing tools, and made for fine finish cuts only. Another thing, I grind away at least half of the heel on the bevel. It fits much better on the inside of a concave surface. I have them with bevel angles from 60 to 75 degrees.

robo hippy

here is my grind on a bowl gouge shown to me by a tradie when doing my apprenticeship. left hand side is left longer to use as a shear scrap across the bottom of the bowl, must remember to lay it on its side. so you dont have to change tools. all my grinding is free hand / free style then honed by hand. this wing I have left also helps redirect shavings.