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Thread: Bowl Gouge advice
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27th June 2006, 06:54 AM #1
Bowl Gouge advice
Ok . . I bought my first set of tools about 4 months ago and i am looking to upgrade the quality of certain tools. I mainly turn bowls and am look for some advice on what brand of 5/8 bowl gouge to buy. I want something good quality that i wont have to sharpen in the middle of turning a large bowl. good lasting edge. I am looking at the Hamlet 2060 5/8 bowl gouge as it says it stays sharp 4.5 times longer then M2 steel. but at a cost of $147.00 I want to be sure it is really worth it and see if anyone has any alternate suggestions. Also looking at the Mortimer 3pc Gouges set for $104.00 but don't know much about this set.
HAMLET 2060 BOWL GOUGE
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cg...n&key=247-6011
SET OF 3 MORTIMER GOUGES
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cg...n&key=947-0246
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27th June 2006 06:54 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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27th June 2006, 09:55 AM #2Retired
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Unfortunately there is no gouge that will stay sharp enough to turn a large bowl in one hit.
Even small bowls (up to 6") the tool will probably be sharpened 2-3 times or it should be. The final 2 cuts should be done with a freshly sharpened tool.
On some of our Aussie hardwoods you will probably sharpen up to 20 times on a 12" bowl. Maybe more.
Some of your American h'woods are pretty good too.
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27th June 2006, 02:00 PM #3
Ok May I hijack this thread to ask another question..I do hope you don't mind.. What size would be the best to buy for small bowl turning on a mini lathe, and which brand is the better or is that personal preference?
Toni
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27th June 2006, 02:17 PM #4
Hi Toni
For a small bowl I would normally use a 8mm or 5/16" bowl gouge
As for preference I use both the P&N and a Sorby and find that I will use either depending on the wood so it really is a matter of personal preference
Cheers DJ
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27th June 2006, 02:38 PM #5Originally Posted by lubbing5cherubs
Brand doesnt really matter as long as the toolsteel is hss or better ,has a deep flute & is set deeply into the handle for strength.
there will still be some cranky woods though that will leave a better finish using a carbon steel tool.hope i have helped.everything is something, for a reason:confused:
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27th June 2006, 05:10 PM #6
Have a look at the Jerry Glaser tools at http://www.cuttingedgetools.com/Onli...laserHiTec.htm
( no commercial interest) I bought one over a year ago and it stays sharper MUCH longer than any other tool I own. I don't know how the 2060 Hamlet steel and the Glaser Hi Tec steel compare:confused:
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27th June 2006, 05:33 PM #7Hewer of wood
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Size is critical if you can only have one gouge. And it's hard to advise since diff countries measure the size in diff ways.
Mostly I find beginners buying too big - so the cuts are too big and the bevel is too long to 'turn the corner' and grain tear out is the result of both of these.
I'm a fan of the Taylor superflute and have found their 3/8" the most versatile with bowls ranging from around 6" diam upwards. This gouge has two radii allowing heavy cuts with the wings and fine finishing cuts with the flute centre.
And Taylor HSS steel is noticeably better than Sorby steel. Don't ask me why; I only use the things.Cheers, Ern
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27th June 2006, 09:57 PM #8
I like the Henry Taylor Superflute the best too.
I have a couple of Crowns that are almost exactly the same profile & they don't seem to hold their edge as well as the Henry Taylor.
I'm interested to see what the new Henry Taylor Kryo is going to be like.Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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27th June 2006, 11:13 PM #9Retired
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Me3.
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28th June 2006, 05:44 PM #10
P&N - Way to Go!
Jack the Lad.
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28th June 2006, 06:08 PM #11Hewer of wood
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Yeah, the steel in P&N is pretty good, but the flutes need some serious work with a slipstone. Shape on the smaller ones is more U than V which isn't my favorite.
Cheers, Ern
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28th June 2006, 06:34 PM #12
P&N is the way to go
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