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  1. #16
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    Jun 2013
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    Thanks again for the advice.It would seem that I am on the wrong track with the U shape and the 40/40 grind. I have 2 gouges like the Hamlet and will try the 40/40 on one of them and see how I go. The tools in that catalogue look very interesting pity they wearn't readily available out here'.
    Terry Keven: Retired Signwriter.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Adelaide Hills, South Australia
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    4,331

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    Quote Originally Posted by jaybird View Post
    I have 2 gouges like the Hamlet and will try the 40/40 on one of them and see how I go.
    Terry - if you are still having any difficulties in getting the correct 40/40 grind, here are two possible sources of help.

    If you are using a platform to sharpen on, make the following jig.

    A Jig for 40/40 Grind

    or

    Use a Varigrind jig (or similar) to do it this way.

    40/40 Grind For Bowl Gouges - YouTube

    It would be relatively easy to make your own setting block.

    https://www.ronbrownsbest.com/image/...40-600x600.jpg

    Turners like Stuart Batty and Cindy Drozda, who have sharpened 10s of thousandths of times, can easily manage that 40/40 grind freehand, but it is not readily and reliably achieved correctly every time by a notice turner. IMO, getting the same grind every time is important.

    PS - I have not used either of the above methods myself, so I'm not talking from any experience of these.

    PPS - If you are going with the 40/40 grind you will also need a gouge with a grind suitable for finishing the inside bottom of bowls and platters. Although optimum, I have found that you don't necessarily need a dedicated 'U' flute profile for this, but if you already have one then well and good.

    Terry, if your old P&N is getting a bit short for general bowl work it might become your dedicated 'bottom feeder'. As long as it can still reach the inside bottoms, a shorter flute is an advantage as it flexes less.
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



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