Thread: Two new bowls

Hi Jim,
I think many would be interested in a book by you or this subject you obviously have a impressive skill in this type of turning and the top quality that you always strive for is an inspiration to all. I have done quite a bit of segmented work over the years but very basic compared to yourself so I realize how involved the set out process can be and how much effort you must put into each piece.
regards Rod.

Originally Posted by Rod Gilbert

..... how involved the set out process can be and how much effort you must put into each piece......

I agree.

Hi Rod and Christos, my first segmented job came from a book put together by Dale Nish back in 1987. In fact I did a W.I.P. on that very project here on the board. There is also a W.I.P. for a segmented vase there too.

Then I had a go at a staved and segmented vase. I had done some staving work at the college with some cabinet maker apprentices, so it was a simple extension of that. I paddled around with variations on a theme making vases and simple segmented bowls. Then I "discovered" Tunbridge ware in a book by David Springett, more cutting and gluing little pieces of wood. My wife came home with a book "Laminated Designs in Wood" by Clarence Rannefeld, that really put the cat among the pigeons. There was another English book in there some where too, "Polychromatic Turning" by Brown and Brown.

By this time I was properly hooked by the effects created by segmented. Then it occurred to me nobody was using curved edge segments. It took a while to develop a reliable, consistent method to control the shape of the male and female curves so that they matched. One big problem here is working out how to cramp the pieces together while the glue dries. Then there is the problem which glue is most effective. A sound knowledge of maths is important.

The journey has been challenging and interesting, but not yet finished. Now there are a few books on the subject available, as well as what is on U-Tube, so there is plenty of information available now.

Jim

Originally Posted by powderpost

Hi Wayne, I did try to fit banding to a sloping surface by "massaging" one edge to lengthen it. The effect wasn't worth the effort. I am toying with the idea of re-designing a batch of bandings. That won't happen over night but it will happen. .

Getting he ends to match up is not really a problem. I simply make the groove a tad deeper until the pattern matches. That can be a problem, depending on how often the pattern is repeated. The joint in the silky oak bowl was cut at 45 degrees, to match the pattern.

More experimenting is needed. I am finding that each time I walk past a calender, two pages fall off.. .

Jim

Interesting notes Jim - thanks.

I too have wondered whether you could "stretch" the commercial patterned banding strips on one side to suit the inclined surface of a bowl... massaging as you put it. I'll take your observation as law that its not worth the effort.

Your solution to matching the pattern at the ends of the strip is a "doh" moment. Of course! Just trial & error the groove depth to adjust the overall circumference until the join in the strip suits the pattern, and then trim off the bowl surface to suit.

I'll have another shot at this when I eventually get set up again.

Wayne