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25th October 2010, 08:13 PM #1
Bowls for "Hands Of The World" exhibition.
Just a few images of some translucent pine. These are quite thin so didn't need much to show the translucence, just the sun.
All are either Bunya, Hoop or Norfolk Island Pine.
I've also included a few fluted bowls too. The first is Camphor Laurel - from a huge tree and the other is Black Wattle.
All comments welcome.
I am part of an exhibition - "Hands Of The World" in Brisbane over this week end.
Peter
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25th October 2010 08:13 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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25th October 2010, 08:28 PM #2
So where abouts is the exhibition being held. Nice work there!!
CheersThere ain't no devil, it's just god when he's drunk!!
Tom Waits
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25th October 2010, 08:43 PM #3Retired
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I see a "Hand of the World" in this shot. Attachment 151077
Nice work.
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25th October 2010, 09:09 PM #4
they are all superb!
Thanks for showing these beautiful art workhttp://www.la-truciolara.com/
La Truciolara is the workshop where I do my shavings.
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25th October 2010, 09:11 PM #5
Beautiful work as usual Peter
Neil____________________________________________Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new
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25th October 2010, 09:12 PM #6
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25th October 2010, 09:13 PM #7
Hi Peter been a while since I have seen a post from you looking at your work you have been busy.
Surface decoration always brightens a vessel but these are brilliant as asked where is the exhibition on at.
I am interested in the wall thickness achieved mainly the Norfolk pine but all of them.
What finish?
Ray
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25th October 2010, 09:56 PM #8
Hey little festo
WOW now they are some master pieces that you have done. I would also like to know the thickness of the walls on all of them aswell as the finish. Once again love the work and I cant wait until I can do something like that and good luck at the Hands Of The World" exhibition.
Cheers Nai
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26th October 2010, 08:16 AM #9Skwair2rownd
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Peter hose are gorgeous works of art!! Congratulations!!
I think I am free this weekend so i will definitely be there if that is the case.
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26th October 2010, 09:11 AM #10
The translucents are about 2-3mm. I have a couple where I went too thin and they were very difficult to sand, didn't go through. They were all turned wet then left for a week or two then sanded. I used to wet sand but it was messy and I became impatient with the sandpaper continually clogging.These are all end grain.
I'm using a danish oil mix and as many immersions as necessary to get the translucence, generally 15+. After about 4-5 immersions they need to sanded after each immersion as the surface of the pine needs to be clear of any surface coating of oil as that seals the wood and there is no further penetration of the oil. The oil seems to add a fair bit of strength to the piece, not drop proof though. It always a bit scary when someone picks them up one handed from the top opening. I do leave a bit of weight in the base, not too much though. I then use Kunos Oil as the final finish, three or four coats.
I haven't gone through many at all. I seem to enjoy turning the thin pieces. An hour or so of intense concentration when hollowing isn't too bad. I now do simple shapes, easier to turn. The deeper forms are quite a bit harder, particularly the inside bottom (end grain). Even green pine can "tear out" a bit and end grain can be susceptible to heat checking when sanding. I only use gouges. Problems occur with the gouge being unsupported but with practice and a firm grip it's not too bad.These pieces "glow" with normal room lights because of the thin walls and oiling.
One strange thing I have noticed when people look at these is what they consider their purpose to be. Most/many Australians, my beloved Queenslanders seem to be the worst, want to put something in them??? A salad, fruit, nuts but something needs to be put into the bowl/piece, it MUST be functional. Americans, Europeans and Kiwis really appreciate craft and see the decorative value of a piece. Americans in particular appreciate craft, a good thing for us Aussie wood turners. I must point out that most of my work is decorative, even some of my functional pieces are embellished with carving etc.
The fluteds are quite a bit heavier with 15 to 30mm wall thicknesses to allow for the flute depth. These are "white shellacked" then oiled with the same kunos Oil.
Thanks for all of the comments. I have a stall at Eumundi markets every Saturday and I'll shout any Forumite a coffee if you say hello.
Hope this makes some sense.
Peter
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26th October 2010, 11:54 AM #11
What the other's said + 1
Cheers,
Ed
Do something that is stupid and fun today, then run like hell !!!
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26th October 2010, 01:17 PM #12
Aussie Aussie Aussie oi oi oi I find it funny what you said about that coz all the people that I have spoken to about think the same way
Nai
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26th October 2010, 01:56 PM #13
Peter a great insight into thin wall turning
I am attempting my first Norfolk Pine a vase shape but due to lathe access being once a week it will have dried out already. It spat off the chuck 2 weeks ago thats why a photo at home where I repaired the tenon. I am looking at putting a false plastic insert into it for water for the flowers easy to remove. Of course it won't be as thin as yours
Any advice would be appreciated.
Also getting a try with a Rolly Munro system
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26th October 2010, 02:42 PM #14
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26th October 2010, 02:47 PM #15
Thanks Peter
the knots I have used CA and epoxy on to stabilise doesn't mean they will stay put though
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