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  1. #61
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    Default Box No 13-Pill Box

    Today was a good turning day, no interruptions for weekly shopping chauffering duties , and although hot the workshop was still quite cool.

    The pill boxes were easy to make, so I made two, and I used the European Beech that was useless for the square lidded box. This design breaks the "rules of proportion by having the lid and base almost equal in height" but is still nice to look at. The book treats the lid with chatterwork but also suggests variations with insets in the lid.

    As I still have some bright and colourful Paua inserts I decided to make the variations instead of the chatterwork.

    Here is a photo of both of them.

    Attachment 303326

    The first is a bit taller and has a green Paua insert. The lids are a tight fit as they are meant to be carried, with pills inside, in a ladies handbag so they should not come apart accidentally. Finish is as usual with EEE and Shellowax and then buffed. Pictures shows the front / top, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.

    Attachment 303320 and Attachment 303321

    Attachment 303322


    The second one is a bit smaller with a red Paua insert. Otherwise the same as the other.

    Attachment 303323 and Attachment 303324

    Attachment 303325

    I personally like the second one better to look at but the first will allow more pills to be carried.

    Enjoy.

    Peter.

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  3. #62
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    Nowra, NSW, Australia
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    Two more nice little boxes Peter. Are they getting smaller?
    (Edit: Of course they are - they're portable pill boxes. )

    I like those Paua inserts, too. (I think I like them more than chatterwork.)

    I've been playing with inserts a little more myself, but only timber, nothing fancy.
    ... Steve

    -- Monkey see, monkey do --

  4. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hermit View Post
    Two more nice little boxes Peter. Are they getting smaller?
    (Edit: Of course they are - they're portable pill boxes. )

    I like those Paua inserts, too. (I think I like them more than chatterwork.)

    I've been playing with inserts a little more myself, but only timber, nothing fancy.
    Thanks Steve, playing with inserts can be fun. I have used foreign coins, cheap ear studs, inlay stone work and glitter where appropriate as it adds another interest to some plain timbers or designs.


    Peter.

  5. #64
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    Nov 2008
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    Looking good beech being quite a plain wood unless it is spalted needs something to help lift the piece which you have managed.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sturdee View Post
    I have used foreign coins, cheap ear studs, inlay stone work and glitter where appropriate as it adds another interest to some plain timbers or designs.

    Peter.
    You mean you put Australian coins in them

  6. #65
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    Thumbs up


  7. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dalboy View Post

    You mean you put Australian coins in them
    No, not good coins but the cheap English two pound coins, like in the pendant that I made for Mrs. Springwater.

    Have used various coins in pendants and in the bases of small bowls that were presents. Seems to add that small, but extra touch, to a gift.


    Peter.

  8. #67
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    Default Box 14 - Teardrop box.

    Chris Stott was inspired by a magazine article about a French company winning a design award for a bottle containing spring water. It's an interesting design, but somewhat awkward to turn, especially as I was using some Meranti of cuts.

    Because of the shape of this form the spigot needed to be on the lid, rather then on the body and the lid needed to be an easy fit rather then a tight one. I had a very tight fit when shaping most of the lid but then I eased it of a tad to make it easy, forgetting that the meranti needed a bit of sanding after the hollowing on the inside of the base so now it's a too loose fit. Another lesson learned in this journey.

    For a specific challenge I tried to make the sides very thin, the sides in the lid is 3 mm thick and the base 4 mm thick.

    Finish is as usual with EEE and Shellowax. Pictures shows the front / top, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.

    Attachment 303397 and Attachment 303395

    Attachment 303396

    Enjoy,

    Peter.

  9. #68
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    Default The collection so far.

    Seeing that I've made 25 boxes so far in this journey of discovery of making boxes of various shapes and sizes I thought a progress shot might be of interest.

    Attachment 303399



    I'll do another when I reach 50.

    Enjoy,


    Peter.

  10. #69
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    That's quite a collection Peter. Nice work.
    A good range of boxes so far. You'll be the resident box expert by the end of your journey.
    Looking forward to the next installment.
    ... Steve

    -- Monkey see, monkey do --

  11. #70
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    Nov 2007
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    Default

    Good collection.
    anne-maria.
    T
    ea Lady

    (White with none)
    Follow my little workshop/gallery on facebook. things of clay and wood.

  12. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sturdee View Post
    No, not good coins but the cheap English two pound coins, like in the pendant that I made for Mrs. Springwater.

    Have used various coins in pendants and in the bases of small bowls that were presents. Seems to add that small, but extra touch, to a gift.


    Peter.
    That pendant looks good, Two pound coins are great for this type of insert as they use two types of metal giving a nice contrast.

    Like the tear drop shaped box.

  13. #72
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    Default Box no 15 - Ginger jar.

    After a hectic non turning week at last I managed to get some turning done today.

    The next box was the ginger jar box which was interesting to make and not very difficult. For the timber I used the same timber as in box 10 which is either a fine grained oregon or baltic pine. Some turners, that know more about timber varieties then I, have seen the timber can't be certain what it is. Not really important as, with care, it gives a nice finish.

    For the hollowing of the inside of the box I used Vermec's ultimate deep hollowing system, which is very easy to use.

    Finish is as usual with EEE and Shellowax. Pictures shows the front / top, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.

    Attachment 304222 and Attachment 304223

    Attachment 304224

    Enjoy,


    Peter.

  14. #73
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    Default Box 14 - Tear drop box revisited.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sturdee View Post

    .... the lid needed to be an easy fit rather then a tight one. I had a very tight fit when shaping most of the lid but then I eased it of a tad to make it easy, forgetting that the meranti needed a bit of sanding after the hollowing on the inside of the base so now it's a too loose fit.
    I haven't been happy with the way the lid became too loose a fit so I decided to make another one. I know I'm a glutton for punishment but it really annoyed me.

    The new one is slightly smaller because the wood I wanted to use was a bit smaller and is Cypress pine. Making the lid went fine and again I had a tight fit onto the base for the basic shaping. After hollowing out the base I took care with sanding but again the inside rim became too large for a firm fit. Turned out the sandpaper was too big and I was sanding the inside rim without realizing. As the base was still in the chuck I used CA glue to form a thick ring on the inside of the rim of the base and after drying scraped it back to make the lid a firm fit.

    Finish is as usual with EEE and Shellowax. Pictures shows the front / top, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.

    Attachment 304431 and Attachment 304432

    Attachment 304433

    Seeing that this worked well I did the same to the original one, holding it in one of my mdf faced Cole jaws and kept in place with a long dowel held into my Sorby revolving centre. This allowed me to scrape of the excess with a small mini scraper as shwon here.

    Attachment 304434

    I don't know if you can see the glue on the photos, but it's quite smooth and I'm now happy with both of the boxes.

    Attachment 304435

    Enjoy,


    Peter.

  15. #74
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    Default

    Hi Peter, I do these with not so much of a thin rim on the lid or the base. If you have the lid coming down a bit further into the round part instead of to the top you can find more wood to do the flange. And a little bit more of an ogee curve in the drip shape. And a point that won't kill anyone of they fall on it? You alsao might find that if the fit is to tight you can't get a grip on the lid.

    Maybe the next turning gathering could be about lidded boxes?

    Here is a couple of pics of one of my drip boxes. The simple shape really appeals to me, but very hard to get the curve just right.
    teardropboxes 012rcs.jpgteardropboxes 009rcs.jpg
    anne-maria.
    T
    ea Lady

    (White with none)
    Follow my little workshop/gallery on facebook. things of clay and wood.

  16. #75
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    Thanks TL for your post, I realize that if I made the base shorter the opening would be bigger and this problem would not arise, neither if I made the box bigger.

    However part of my own perverse challenge is to try to make them as close as possible to how Chris Stott does them. His box has an internal opening of 33.5 mm and my first box was close at 35 mm and the second a bit smaller at 31 mm. With such a narrow opening it's very difficult to sand the inside of the bottom. I now realize that I should have done it the other way around and hollow the base, sand and polish first before making the top to fit.

    Another simple lesson learned in the art of box making.

    Peter.

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