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Thread: My Box Turning Learning Journey.
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15th March 2014, 07:00 PM #106Deceased
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When I first started turning in earnest I bought the Sorby's 10tpi thread chasers as well as a 1"*10tpi tap and die as this is the thread of my lathes. Used the tap and die a few times and they are handy but the thread chasing by hand is much more difficult then I anticipated.
Also I already had difficulties making boxes without them so the desire to do thread chasing went on the back burner.
However last year I decided to build a thread chasing machine, which I finished just before Christmas. So this learning experience to making boxes is the first step and then I will adept some of the designs and shapes to make my own and use the thread chasing machine with them.
Thus I'm learning to walk before trying to run. I know there are experts to do it by hand but at my age and health I don't have the time to learn thread chasing by hand, besides those who know me will know thatmaking jigs is much more fun to me.
For your info here are some photos of the machine and cutter.
This is the layout of all parts as they will be on the lathe:
Attachment 307436
and some close ups:
Attachment 307437 and Attachment 307438
It still need a paint job before it's completely finished.
Enjoy,
Peter.
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16th March 2014, 05:10 PM #107GOLD MEMBER
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Peter
Your thread cutting jig looks like it should work but a couple of things you will have to watch based on my experience with the English EZ jig. First the shaft looks like it may be too light.There is a fair degree of vibration from the cutter and I found mine worked best when the chuck holding the job is the minimum distance from the bearing.The shaft on mine is 19mm.I can see no way you can test fit the male to the female thread unless you have the chuck screwed well out when cutting so's you can wind it out of the way so's you can offer up the mateing thread to it.The EZ jig is mounted on the banjo so it can swung to one side to test . Once you remove the job from the chuck there is no going back.
Ted
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16th March 2014, 07:05 PM #108Deceased
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Thanks Ted,
The shaft I used is 19 mm *16 tpi high tensile steel rod with a chuck insert, to suit my chucks, attached to the end. It has separate clamps to clamp the cross section box to the base and the base can slide along the lathe bed further out with out upsetting the settings.
The cutter will be clamped in the collet chuck which screws direct on the lathe. The collet chuck is a precision machined unit from Vermec so there should be minimal vibration.
I know that once it is removed from the chuck you can not go back, but I have more then one chuck available so each part will be on its own chuck until finished.
Having a collection of chucks with many different faces, including 2 with the shark faces, makes my turning a bit easier.
Peter.
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17th March 2014, 05:19 PM #109GOLD MEMBER
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Peter
Looks like you've got everything covered.Look forward to seeing the results when you've got all the nonthreaded boxes out of the way.
Ted
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19th March 2014, 08:20 PM #110Deceased
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Box No 23 - Apple box.
For this apple shaped box I used some ordinary pine, which turned quite well. Sanded to 400 and the finish is as usual with EEE and Shellowax. Pictures shows the top/front, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.
Attachment 307811 and Attachment 307812
Attachment 307813
Couldn't make up my mind whether I should leave the little stem on or not so in the end I decided to leave it on.
Enjoy,
Peter.
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20th March 2014, 04:43 PM #111Deceased
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Box No 24 - Saturn box.
This Saturn box is based on the boxes that Hans Weissflog of Germany turns, but his rings are loose and still captive and so can also be turned. Thankfully Chriss Stott decided not to make the ring turn as making this box, as is, was difficult enough.
My main problem was turning the outside of bottom of the box as the ring kept getting in the way and because of its small internal size it needed tailstock support all the way, until the final turning and sanding.
Near the end, in making the ring thinner it broke but CA glue was my friend and repaired it.
Timber is mahogany, and was sanded to 400 and the finish is as usual with EEE and Shellowax. Pictures shows the top/front, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.
Attachment 307891 and Attachment 307892
Attachment 307893
One more and I'm half way through my journey.
Enjoy,
Peter.
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21st March 2014, 08:11 PM #112
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23rd March 2014, 05:02 PM #113Deceased
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Box No 25 - Japanese Lantern Box.
This box is shaped like a Japanese lantern box. For those who have some interest in Japanese garden design this box is loosely based on an Oki-gata lantern. Great accuracy is required to make the block square and to drill the holes through the base for the legs of the box. Apart from that turning itself was easy, except that I misread a measurement and nearly went through the box lid, but CA glue was my friend. Still a little bit noticeable inside the lid.
Timber was cypres pine and finished as usual inside but the outside was buffed on my buffing system.
Attachment 308293 and Attachment 308294
Attachment 308295
This box now completes the first half of the book, only another 25 to go.
Enjoy.
Peter.
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25th March 2014, 05:02 PM #114
As you go along making these boxes are you considering repeating some of your favorites boxes before you continue on with the rest of the book?
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28th March 2014, 11:26 AM #115
Looking good Peter. You've been busy while I've been away.
I love these last 3 boxes. I think I'll have a go at a 'Saturn' box when I get a chance.
Keep up the good work.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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3rd April 2014, 11:42 AM #116Deceased
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Unfortunately I have to put making little boxes, indeed all my turning, on hold for a few weeks as the kitchen needs some work done.
Originally the job was to be replacing a sink and taps and a quick paint job but this involves replacing the bench tops, new tiling and altering cupboards. Also now that I've started some further work is required like changing the light fitting, replacing the rangehood, replacing all the 52 cupboard handles and replacing some drawer fronts and doors.
Been working all week on cleaning and prep work in getting ready for painting on the weekend. Hopefully it will take only four weeks and not four years as another turner took.
Peter.
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3rd April 2014, 01:29 PM #117SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Peter
52 cupboards, wow!!
Must be more than 's got.
How do you remember where you put anything?
Keep up the good work with your box making.
Cheers
TimSome days I turns thisaway, somedays I turns thataway and other days I don't give a stuff so I don't turn at all.
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3rd April 2014, 02:02 PM #118Deceased
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Tim,
Whilst I need that many handles there are not that many cupboards. Most of the under bench level are wide drawers which take two handles per drawer, so I need 34 handles for the drawers instead of 6 if they were cupboard doors.
You're right I don't know where everything goes, only the essentials , for it's not my workshop.
Peter.
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3rd April 2014, 09:18 PM #119
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3rd April 2014, 10:48 PM #120
At least you might get in a little turning making the handles.
I'm doing similar at the moment - a bit of a cleanup and renovation. Mostly neglected plumbing in my case.
took a little time, (was it really 4 years), but the result was pretty spectacular. Makes my kitchen look like @#$%.
I've been doing a little turning daily, but nothing to show off here. All pretty boring.
I've got a larger segmented piece in the works soon when I get hold of some suitable timber and might do a WIP on that one. Meantime I'm just making a very basic 5-layer Tas Oak segmented bowl at the moment. Not worth showing.
I'm looking forward to your next boxes when the drudgery is out of the way.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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