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Thread: Brass powder???
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20th May 2006, 10:58 AM #31
A chainsaw file removes material at a good rate and it's very fine. The plus side is you can choose the quality of material you want to file.
Another thought is you could use your belt sander."What a fabulous race! Barry Sheene's riding his Suzuki as though he's married to it."
Quote/Murray Walker.
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1st June 2006, 12:21 AM #32
Update....
Got the thin CA as planned - makes a big difference! Found the brass still cakes up if you just drop the CA on the powder but it penetrates about 3mm first which is all that's required much of the time. Got a plastic puffer bottle for the powder (had to buy and tip out the craft glue) but still have a little trouble controlling the supply because I cut the tip way too big. After a test with the new glue in a couple of drilled holes, I thought I'd get fancy and printed out my initials 18mm high.
Pic 1. Glued this to a scrap of red cedar and carved out as best I could - a bit rough actually!
Pic 2. Filled the recess with CA and let it dry to try and stop the thin CA flowing into the grain next time I wet it. Helped a bit but cedar is so porous that the CA appeared as far as 30mm away anyhow. Wet the recess again and poured some brass powder on.
Pic 3. After the first sanding, you can see where I started filling the 'V' first that it filled quite well but by the time I got to the 'B', most of the CA had gone and it didn't quite fill properly.
Pic 4. Topped the holes up and sanded again.
Pic 5. Shellawax cream, EEE and more Shellawax cream and it doesn't look too bad for first attempt. (CA on the left, Brass powder bottle on right)
Lessons learnt....
Work one spot at a time.
Tip powder in to only very wet area.
I need sharper carving tools for soft timber!
Brass powder $44. CA $22 - Worth it? I think so. 1Kg of powder is going to fill a hell of a lot of holes!
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1st June 2006, 12:26 AM #33
Awesome work!
But I didn't know your name was Vic Bitter...
Glad to see that the better glue was worth it for you.
Cam<Insert witty remark here>
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1st June 2006, 01:23 AM #34
brass effect
TTIT,
Now that has some interesting possibilities. I think it would look well with a lot of timber colours and grain patterns. Hmm this has got me thinking but it'll have to wait till I get few of my more out standing turning done.
hughieInspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso
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1st June 2006, 09:11 AM #35Originally Posted by CameronPotter
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1st June 2006, 10:32 AM #36Originally Posted by TTIT
As you're gluing with CA anyway, I wonder how copper would go as an alternative? With a CA finish after sanding, of course. Or mebbe aluminium? Come to that, I can't help but wonder how it'd look if you did a "bodgy" job with brass and used copper or aluminium to patch the holes.
I'm almost tempted to try it for myself... perhaps the next time I come across that "special" piece.
- Andy Mc
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1st June 2006, 01:35 PM #37Originally Posted by hughie
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1st June 2006, 01:48 PM #38Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!
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1st June 2006, 03:57 PM #39Originally Posted by TTIT
- Andy Mc
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1st June 2006, 04:18 PM #40
However, highly reflective metal finishes would reduce the contrast between the brass and copper. Thus, if you want to seal it (to stop oxidisation), you should probably leave it with a matte finish under the CA.
This is why most mokume gane jewellery is not highly polished...<Insert witty remark here>
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1st June 2006, 08:33 PM #41Originally Posted by CameronPotter
Perhaps with a plain wood, either very pale or ebonised, I'd have the metal as the feature... but in that case I'd be more inclined to machine/etch the brass anyway, resulting in crisper lines and better contrast when the copper goes in.
It's the same difference as between laminating acrylics and colouring your own, if you follow what I mean?
(And I'm still thinking of throwin some aluminium in the mix just for the odd highlight. )
- Andy Mc
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1st June 2006, 09:32 PM #42Member
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metallic powders
If any of you want to buy a tiny amount of the metallic powders, cake-decorators use them to gild or silver or bronze non-edible cake decorations. I think (from memory) the powders can be bought in 1/4 oz plastic vials. Enough for a good number of experiments!
In the same vein.... one of the woodworking mags (sorry, forget which one) had an article on using those thin sheets of gilding metal in a very innovative way. They applied it onto turned articles through such things as onion bags, then distressed it with acids and other chemicals to make a gorgeous array of colour. They then neutralized the chemicals and waxed or coated the articles. I'll try to find the article next week (sorry, I'm busy for the next few days).
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2nd June 2006, 03:11 AM #43
the aluminium is lighter than brass so sprinkle it on water and skim of the ally or you could always do the miners trick in the gold pan .as for the fineness time to make a mortar and pestle i think brass is very brittle.
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2nd June 2006, 09:58 AM #44
Fair enough Skew. I just thought that I would make sure that you understood that. Copper and brass will be hard to tell apart when highly polished (tricks of the eye).
However, if you are just looking for subtle variation almost shading, then that is fine.
I was thinking that you were looking for a visible variation from copper to brass.
Aluminium should be fine either way.
Cam<Insert witty remark here>
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2nd June 2006, 10:11 AM #45Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!
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