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Thread: building a lathe for woodturning
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28th January 2013, 08:53 AM #16Senior Member
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Hey! taking a few moments museing. I wrote up another thread a while back about tying the cross feed to the headstock for rope or barley twists. I was looking for a way to “phase” the turning on the fly. I have figured out a way to do this. some of you may have read about or seen videos on oval turning. Some may or may not understand the way a belt drive adapter works for this type of turning. Oval turning off sets the center of the turning through an eccentric chuck system 2 times per revolution of the spindle so it has a 2 to 1 internal ratio. the whole thing starts out with a fixed pulley or sprocket on the spindle housing. I wont get into that any further at this time. I want to be able to do length wise OT (ornamental turning) without rocking the head and tailstock back and forth. I plan to use a push pull cable coupled to a secondary slide on the crossfeed. This way i can turn to a pattern and then follow the same pattern with the OT set up for additional detail. Spindle milling machines like the legacy mill use routers and several bit set ups to get the final result. This locks you into buying special tooling or altering a design to make do with what you have. With typical OT lathes one cutter shape is used and the rosette sets the pattern. They typically cannot make long pieces(over 12”)and without an additional expensive piece of hardware cannot do a spiral. What I needed to figure out was a way to “phase on the fly” I can do this by keeping the ratio 1-1 in the oval turning setup. Set up at the center so there is no offset and lastly make the usually fixed pulley rotate in a manner that is controlled by the movement of the crossfeed. Certainly this must present an amusing challenge to some. some day I am going to figure out a passable capstan table mechanism that doesn’t cost 50,000 dollars but for a while I will stick to this lathe build.
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28th January 2013 08:53 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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30th January 2013, 06:59 PM #17Senior Member
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Is this posted in the wrong area?
I thought it this topic would do well here but would it be better in the wood working tools area?
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30th January 2013, 08:30 PM #18Retired
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'tis in the right place.
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31st January 2013, 08:54 AM #19GOLD MEMBER
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31st January 2013, 12:03 PM #20Senior Member
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I would have hoped that you would have been all over this thread then! On those that you have built what do you wish that you had included/ left out? What capability do you wish you could have included?
I am working on an oval turning attatchment for the lathe. almost done with the design. There is a little work to center-center distances for two belt drives that have to be adjustable against each other and maintaining a balance. it has been a little challenge. I will post the block drawings when I get finished with it and then the finished part when it is....finished.
if there is something that you find an interest in duplicating i have no trouble providing tech/spec drawings for them.
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31st January 2013, 01:01 PM #21GOLD MEMBER
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Oreos40,
I have not yet built the big bowl lathe. I have assembled a 2 3/8 inch shaft with two pillow blocks, a bunch of I beam and C channel, a new Baldor 3 HP, 3 phase motor, a tailstock with #2 Morse taper, an Isuzu 5 speed pick up transmission, a bunch of V-belt pulleys, and a swing arm with bearings and shaft from a sawmill cut off saw. All of this at scrap price or a bit above.
The motor was a find, sitting in the scrap yard in the crate. I got it and a lightly used 1 HP, 3 phase for less than $50.00.
My general thoughts are: Enough weight and mass so that it does not vibrate or ring like a bell. Wide enough footprint or bolted down so that out of balance does not make it walk.
Constant torque Variable Frequency Drive With a pulley / transmission set up so that the spindle can be slowed to 25 - 50 rpm with the VFD at 1/2 speed and 2000 rpm with VFD running at 125%. The VFD takes single phase and converts it to 3 phase and varies the frequency. AC motor speed is controlled by the frequency, 60 Hz in the US.
If a motor with shaft driven fan is run too slowly too long they overheat and the magic smoke will come out. An extra fan running at full rpm blowing through or over the motor will keep it cool.
Tailstock to help hold unbalanced big blanks. Tailstock to slide off the bed so as to be out of the way for hollowing and finishing the inside.
Tool rest to be connected to bed and a leg running to the floor to take up force when roughing and hollowing.
As much as I admire Ornamental Turning and the lathes, and oval turnings, I have enough to occupy me with interesting wood made round.
Here is info on an old oval turning lathe:
Turning Ovals at the Old Schwamb Mill « Rainford Restorations
Old Schwamb Mill
Lathes and Turning Techniques - Fine Woodworking - Google Books
The magazine article had nice clear diagrams on how it worked. I have a copy buried somewhere, which may only come to light after I croak.
Add: Modern oval turning chuck:
Untitled DocumentSo much timber, so little time.
Paul
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31st January 2013, 01:18 PM #22Senior Member
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be sure to make a way to keep the truck trans in gear. Intermittent cuts will knock it out of gear. don't use a bungee chord either the constant pressure on the shift forks will make them wear faster than you might expect, especially at higher speeds. With 3 hp you should really be able to do some monster sized stuff.
I am familiar with the typical arrangement for oval turnings. one set up for one size. I want to make a variable set up, and one for some pretty big things too. thanks for the links! it was fun to go through them.
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1st February 2013, 10:16 PM #23I would have hoped that you would have been all over this thread then! On those that you have built what do you wish that you had included/ left out? What capability do you wish you could have included?Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso
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2nd February 2013, 03:32 AM #24Senior Member
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Hughie what types of things have you set up to do? those could be welcome additions.
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2nd February 2013, 07:39 AM #25
Well I started out making bowls and largish ones at that. So the lathes have big swings ie 27" and 36". This was to do away with a swivel head, I had one and have determined I dont like them, just a complicated add on for a small lathe.
So they were dedicated bowl lathes, now I find that there isnt much interest in huge bowls either for my friends or family, well one or two maybe and they gobble up wood at a alarming rate to boot.
So my most recent mod is inter changeable indexing discs. This allows me move them back and forth at will, very handyInspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso
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3rd February 2013, 12:13 AM #26Senior Member
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interchangeable discs for mounting bowls or platters? I have thought about a keyhole type arangement put the large hole over the top of a disc and let ti drop to the center then tighten two take up screws no the disc and one through a key to lock it in place. this would be for big stuff. finding the thread on the bigger stuff even with a hoist can leave you open to damaging the threads.
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3rd February 2013, 10:21 AM #27interchangeable discs for mounting bowls or platters?Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso
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3rd February 2013, 03:31 PM #28Senior Member
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Are those hand cut and hand worked or are they machine cut? way cool in either case!
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3rd February 2013, 06:04 PM #29
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3rd February 2013, 06:47 PM #30Retired
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