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Thread: Bunya Pine

  1. #16
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    Jarrahrules

    The Bunya was turned wet then dried for about a week or so. On some I oiled early to stop cracking, seems to be working ok. I made some larger pieces with hoop pines. The knots can be used to add a feature. I learned a lesson in that it's not a good idea to have knots on the bottom of a deep vessel, hollowing can be a bit difficult as the knots can be quite hard, also some need a bit of CA glue to hold them in while turning, they sometimes can pull out, not the "living ones" when wet turning but the dead ones can be a problem - you'll know the difference. Forgot to say, try a end grain bowl. I set the "pith" with CA to stop splitting. I have used thinned lacquer, just poured on it too, let it soak in or oiled early too, same thing let it soak in. The CA does stain so to speak so only use that on the inside of some pieces where the inside is not a feature, suppose the base is not too bad if there are a few discolourations.

    Re the Norfolk Pine - It's definitely worth a try. Try to have the knots near the top of the piece, as i said it's better/easier to have good support for your gouge.

    When turning some large wet Bunya it was magic, got shavings to hit the ceiling, approx 3 meters.

    Peter

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  3. #17
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    great work
    as always.
    p.t.c

  4. #18
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    Feb 2008
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    Hazelwood North, Victoria
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    Quote Originally Posted by Little Festo View Post
    Jarrahrules

    The Bunya was turned wet then dried for about a week or so. On some I oiled early to stop cracking, seems to be working ok. I made some larger pieces with hoop pines. The knots can be used to add a feature. I learned a lesson in that it's not a good idea to have knots on the bottom of a deep vessel, hollowing can be a bit difficult as the knots can be quite hard, also some need a bit of CA glue to hold them in while turning, they sometimes can pull out, not the "living ones" when wet turning but the dead ones can be a problem - you'll know the difference. Forgot to say, try a end grain bowl. I set the "pith" with CA to stop splitting. I have used thinned lacquer, just poured on it too, let it soak in or oiled early too, same thing let it soak in. The CA does stain so to speak so only use that on the inside of some pieces where the inside is not a feature, suppose the base is not too bad if there are a few discolourations.

    Re the Norfolk Pine - It's definitely worth a try. Try to have the knots near the top of the piece, as i said it's better/easier to have good support for your gouge.

    When turning some large wet Bunya it was magic, got shavings to hit the ceiling, approx 3 meters.

    Peter
    Thanks Peter for the advice. That is why it is so great to have these forums.

    It may take a while for me to get to turn the norfolk as time is of the essence. will try and post pics once done.

    I have just spent all day ripping a sheoke and packing it in a creat to dry. About 2m3. slabs, half logs, quarter logs. So i will have to go back to work to pay the bills.


    Regards
    JAMC

  5. #19
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    Excellent pieces Peter... I hope more people start appreciating the qualities of good quality pine species and what they can do when well worked like your pieces.
    Jim
    Sometimes in the daily challenges that life gives us, we miss what is really important...

  6. #20
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    Great turning ,Norfolk pine has all the limbs at the one position on the trunk and if cut through the centre of the branch gives very intersting grain.
    Anyone Know anything about 'Montra Pine'?
    I am not sure if this is how it is spell it.
    I have offered some trees of this timber and was wondering if it was suitable for making furniture.
    Regards
    David Mitchell

  7. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Mitchell View Post
    Great turning ,Norfolk pine has all the limbs at the one position on the trunk and if cut through the centre of the branch gives very intersting grain.
    Anyone Know anything about 'Montra Pine'?
    I am not sure if this is how it is spell it.
    I have offered some trees of this timber and was wondering if it was suitable for making furniture.
    Regards
    David Mitchell
    Hi David

    Do you mean along the grain as the centre of the branch or through the centre of the branches through the log. Sorry for my ingnorance just that i may try this as i have about 9meters of tree. Plenty to play with.

    JAMC

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jarrahrules View Post
    Hi David

    Do you mean along the grain as the centre of the branch or through the centre of the branches through the log. Sorry for my ingnorance just that i may try this as i have about 9meters of tree. Plenty to play with.

    JAMC
    If you turn an endgrain piece the branches/knots go all the way to the centre of the tree. I have found that they go down as the tree grows, not straight to the pith. If you strip the bark off you can see the "slope" of the branches so you can turn accordingly. If you turn a shallow piece you can have the branch/knot flow right to the centre of the piece, all the way down the walls. I now try to centre the piece through the pith as this seems to give a nicer balance with the knots. The symatry is not always true but still interesting.

    The gouge tends to bounce a bit on the knots but if it's sharp it will cut ok. Remember the CA but use it before you sand and if necessary during turning.

    Hope this makes sense.

    Peter

  9. #23
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    Thanks peter

    Will have a go soon.

    JAMC

  10. #24
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    Sep 2007
    Location
    Adelaide rural - South Australia
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    849

    Default Bunya pine fruit... huge!

    Hi Everyone,

    Little Festo, I hope that you don't mind me adding a little more information about the Bunya Pine Species as one of the conifers varieties, producing what I believe is also the largest eatable size nuts and cone size (up to 10kg or more). This actually come about today when I was researching on pine issues when I come up with a Portuguese site which I recognise from some years ago, belonging to an old friend of mine. He did not have any issues with me using any of his pics on this forum, therefore you will find interesting the first pic of this selection, as it is titled with the common name in Portuguese, as one of the products that are Imported to that Country believe it or not!.
    I have had also the opportunity to get a pic with the 3 eatable pine nuts, from the Conifers variety.

    Cheers
    RBTCO

  11. #25
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    Adelaide
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Mitchell View Post
    Anyone Know anything about 'Montra Pine'?
    I am not sure if this is how it is spell it.
    David, my money is on "Monterey pine" aka good old Pinus radiata.

  12. #26
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    To me, this is WOW factor.
    Shirley

  13. #27
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    Ararat Victoria
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jarrahrules View Post
    Hi David

    Do you mean along the grain as the centre of the branch or through the centre of the branches through the log. Sorry for my ingnorance just that i may try this as i have about 9meters of tree. Plenty to play with.

    JAMC
    Thought I would explain with a picture, cut this log today Norfolk Pine
    Regards
    David

  14. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Mitchell View Post
    Thought I would explain with a picture, cut this log today Norfolk Pine
    Regards
    David
    Thanks
    David

    I would have thought when you said the grain goes long that you would have cut highter than through the branches. Is this so you get two bowls.

    JAMC

  15. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank&Earnest View Post
    David, my money is on "Monterey pine" aka good old Pinus radiata.
    Thanks, Frank & Earnest I will have to go and check it out
    Regards
    David

  16. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Mitchell View Post
    Thanks, Frank & Earnest I will have to go and check it out
    Regards
    David
    The bark on the norfolk i have looks totally different to that.

    JAMC

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