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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumpy John View Post
    I repeat!!!!!!!!!
    Grumpy ol' fart. [mutter, mutter, mumble]

    To put Rum_Pigs answer more concisely: yes!

    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

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  3. #17
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    Every time you slop some out of the container some oxygen's gunna get in the mix so you can only slow the jellification (warning, neologism) but not stop it.

    FWIW if Organoil is still around their DO is not sposed to go off in the can. That doesn't make up for it's finishing properties IMO.
    Last edited by rsser; 11th March 2009 at 08:48 PM. Reason: 'only' added
    Cheers, Ern

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumpy John View Post
    I repeat!!!!!!!!!
    Sorry Grumpy,

    I did look at your link and lo and behold I used to use those photo chemical bottles, but I recall they were fairly big, ie 1lit plus. I'm wondering whether the chemicals in DO would eat the plastic? Thanks for the link.
    Be happy!,

    Cheers
    FrankG

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!! View Post
    100% Tung Oil is like that, but DO has metallic driers added to help it set.

    That's the main advantage of DO over Tung (or Scandinavian) Oil - you don't have to wait years between each coat, while getting essentially the same finish. Of course, it introduced the problem you've just encountered...
    OK Skew,

    I've mentioned this before and got shot down in flames, but ....
    I've been using a tin of Incralac (lacquer for brass) which is very thin, in the following way with good results:
    1. sand to fine finish
    2. apply plenty of Incralac with cloth on object while turning on lathe (this stuff dries in abt 3 miliseconds - and smells pretty good too, hic!)
    3. resand with 400 grit
    5. polish using DO or SkTO

    Both the above examples were finished this way. I reckon the Incralac penetrates the timber as it is very thin and then hardens like lacquer. Fine sanding removes any raised fibres - it works for me!

    Cheers,

    FrankG
    3.

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rum Pig View Post
    Looks good to me
    Quote Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!! View Post
    Grumpy ol' fart. [mutter, mutter, mumble]

    To put Rum_Pigs answer more concisely: yes!

    Sorry Skew, I assumed Rum Pig's was in response to efgee88's turning skills. Silly me .
    To grow old is inevitable.... To grow up is optional

    Confidence, the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation.

    What could possibly go wrong.

  7. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsser View Post
    FWIW if Organoil is still around their DO is not sposed to go off in the can. That doesn't make up for it's finishing properties IMO.
    Bunnies @ Cranny sold off their last can of Organoil DO on Monday, 4 Litre can for $5.00. No, I was too slow, some bugga in the paint dept. snaffled it up .
    To grow old is inevitable.... To grow up is optional

    Confidence, the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation.

    What could possibly go wrong.

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumpy John View Post
    Sorry Skew, I assumed Rum Pig's was in response to efgee88's turning skills. Silly me .
    So you should be.

  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumpy John View Post
    Sorry Skew, I assumed Rum Pig's was in response to efgee88's turning skills. Silly me .
    I didn't think of that...

    Quote Originally Posted by Grumpy John View Post
    Bunnies @ Cranny sold off their last can of Organoil DO on Monday, 4 Litre can for $5.00. No, I was too slow, some bugga in the paint dept. snaffled it up .
    Don't worry. Some you win, some you lose. IMHO, you won this one! That's $5 towards a tin of Rustin's instead.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  10. #24
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    Yep. Organoil gives a flat finish and takes longer to dry than Rustins or FW Scandinavian.
    Cheers, Ern

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