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Thread: Burn marks on end grain
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1st May 2009, 10:50 AM #1
Burn marks on end grain
I like to add decorative burn marks to various spindle turning projects like tool handles with bits of guitar string etc. How would you do the same with end-grain eg spinning tops or the bottom of boxes. I make a groove with the skew chisel as you would normally, is there a special tool or technique to make this work?
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1st May 2009, 12:13 PM #2
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1st May 2009, 08:45 PM #3Artisans On The Hilll - Gallery, Manning Valley Hideaway Accommodation & Workshops.
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1st May 2009, 11:22 PM #4
Thanks Sprog. I have actually tried laminex but found that it took a fair bit of pressure and dug a deeper groove than the one originally made by the skew chisel, the result wasn't all that good.
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1st May 2009, 11:54 PM #5
Dental pick: http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=49961
Cheers,
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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2nd May 2009, 08:36 AM #6
Got any Twin and earth cable laying around.
Cut about 2' and strip the insulation from the copper. Make a small toggle for each end and twist lock the copper core onto it (it will break through heat every so often).
Then just lay it in your prepared groove and apply a little pressure, the rotation and friction will do the rest.Dragonfly
No-one suspects the dragonfly!
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2nd May 2009, 08:41 AM #7
Opps - please disregard my last - I miss read the thread.
I have seen this done with a pointed piece of wood of the same type as your turning but never tried it myself.Dragonfly
No-one suspects the dragonfly!
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2nd May 2009, 10:13 AM #8
When I try to burn a line in the bottom of anything, if the piece of laminate wants to cut too deeply before it burns, I turn up the speed, and narrow down the end of the piece of laminate I'm using.
Al
Some minds are like concrete thoroughly mixed up and permanently set.
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2nd May 2009, 09:35 PM #9
With regards to the speed, anyway.
I've found the trick (that works for me) is to use a pointy piece of laminate, but not necessarily a "sharp" one, at high speed and only medium pressure.
If it's too sharp, or I apply too much pressure, I start scraping out the char as it's burnt in, so I press harder hoping for it to "start charring" and, in effect, just make the problem worse.
Of course, the pressure required is different from wood to wood.
- Andy Mc
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6th May 2009, 03:57 PM #10
Thanks, fellas, I'll give these suggestions a try.
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6th May 2009, 04:19 PM #11
I use a piece of baling wire. Each end is wrapped around a cross handle. This enables me to control the depth and amount of burn with safety and accuracy.
JerryEvery person takes the limit of their own vision for the limits of the world.
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6th May 2009, 04:49 PM #12
Just thought I'd include illustration of wire effect. Wire wrap I use is about 300 mm long which makes it comfortable to hold the handles.
JerryEvery person takes the limit of their own vision for the limits of the world.
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6th May 2009, 05:00 PM #13Banned
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7th May 2009, 10:08 AM #14
Sorry Jock,
It's a bit beyond me to work out technical things like wire guage. It's a bailng wire I got from the local hardware store. To be techicalk it was the thicker of the two.
JerryEvery person takes the limit of their own vision for the limits of the world.
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7th May 2009, 11:41 AM #15Banned
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