Thread: buttons for longworth chuck

Tiger
I have just made a couple of Longworths.I used the rubber tips that are pushed over the ends of legs,use the appropriate sized dowel,drill a hole in the dowel-jobs done.
I purchased the tips from bunnings.

cheers
gidgee 1

Saw a tip in Woodturning magazine #185, pg 46, using screw in studs for soccer boots.

Worth a look.

Here are the right ones - with the extensions it allows you to hold odd shaped bowls that don't have a lip right on the edge. postage will get them to you overnight.

cheers

david

Clark rubber have a good selection of tapered plugs.you just gave to drill them yourself.

Tiger, I used cane tips. 1/2" i.d. My bolts are 1/4" carriage bolts with wingnuts. I drilled a 1/4" hole in the center of the cane tip. I then cut a short piece of 1/4" i.d. vinyl tubing to fit inside of the cane tip. Then inserted the bolt with the head of the bolt against the hole in the cane tip. With a washer between the cane tip and the wood of the longworth, and another washer and the wingnut on the outside. The vinyl tube allows the tip to collapse and expand, but not too much. They are really good buttons that fit every type of bowl I've put on it, so far. Hope this is a little more clear than mud.

Thanks, boys, should be able to finish this off for now.

Haven't drilled the finger-holes yet, where should they be drilled for maximum efficiency of these chucks?

Sounds like "problem solved", but for ref. I used one hole rubber stoppers from a laboratory supply company. Inexpensive, holes were well centered and tight fit on 1/4-20 UNC bolts. Hmm, 6.35 mm. Maybe not. And never use the Longworth (insufficient grip from aforesaid stoppers) now. Friction, jam, or doughnut chuck easier and better. Never mind.

Originally Posted by Tiger

Thanks, boys, should be able to finish this off for now.

Haven't drilled the finger-holes yet, where should they be drilled for maximum efficiency of these chucks?

Tiger, just for convenience, I should have opened the jaws fully, and drilled the holes around the outside edge, about 4 inches apart. Didn't, but should have.

If you drill half-holes (easy with a Forstner bit) around the rim of the back disk, you can operate it one-handed, while the other hand supports the bowl. Like this: https://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/my-...ion-1-a-50923/

I wouldn't be too concerned about "efficiency" of the finger hole placement. As long as they allow enough material away from the slots, more is better.

Also, for insurance, wrap tape (filament best, masking tape OK) around the bowl to the back of the back disk. Fold a flap (~5mm) of tape at each end for ease of removal.

Cheers,
Joe

I should have opened the jaws fully, and drilled the holes around the outside edge, about 4 inches apart. Didn't, but should have.

yeah me to, so don't feel too bad.

Both discs of my last Longworth were fairly thick so I drilled radial holes (that 6.35 mm again) around the edges of both discs, used two lengths of steel rod like tommy bars to tighten the chuck. Could get it close, then hold the work with one hand and tighten with the other, then tighten the stopper bolts whilst holding the "tommy bars".