Thread: Where to buy a faceplate?

Gents
I turn some reasonably large items, but I have NOT used (or done) my faceplates since I bought my first scroll chuck, a VM120.

So, why are we using faceplates?

Willy
Confused

But still in Jarrahland

Willy, how are you mounting your blanks for the initial turning on the VM120?

Originally Posted by Willy Nelson

Gents
I turn some reasonably large items, but I have NOT used (or done) my faceplates since I bought my first scroll chuck, a VM120.

So, why are we using faceplates?

Willy
Confused

But still in Jarrahland

Willy has a good point. Below is my method.

I have a big aluminum face plate that came with the Hegner. I have a piece of 3/4 inch plywood mounted on it which makes the face about 325mm in diameter.

I make a lot of bowls from logs I have picked up.. The bowl blank is usually a log split in half or cut in half with a chain saw and the corners cut off.

This is centered flat side to the face plate and the tail center brought up and made nice and tight. I rotate the blank by hand and continue to snug up the tail center.

I put the lathe on the slowest speed 800 rpm, stand to the side and turn on the lathe with my finger on the off button. If there is a reasonable amount of shaking and vibrating I face the part against the tail center flat and if that is going to be the bottom of the bowl start shaping the outside. If the figure is not right or a defect shows, I loosen the center and move the blank on the face plate and again bring up the tail center and check for vibration.

I rough out the side of the bowl and have a look. If it is what I want, I make a spigot or recess for the chuck to grab, leaving a nub under the tail center to keep the blank in place. I then finish cut, scrape, sand and put on a coat of finish. I use Tung Oil Finish rubbed on with a cloth, a 30 second dry with a hair dryer, a burnish with an old athletic sock, and remove from the lathe.

I cut off the nub with a bench chisel, replace the face plate with the chuck, and grab the blank by the recess or spigot. I have my chuck jaws numbered and I make a pencil mark on the blank at the middle of #1 jaw so that if I remove the blank I can replace it in the same place.

I turn the rim, hollow, scrape, sand and finish the inside. About half the time the outside is not tracking true after mounting in the chuck so I will recut the outside and finish.

I remove the bowl and put the big face plate back on. I cut a groove into which the rim will fit snugly and bring up a cup tail center so as not to make a hole with the pointed one. The bottom and spigot or recess are exposed. I usually cut down the recess a bit and make a shallow concave bottom leaving a nub as before. I scrape, sand, and finish; take the bowl off, then take the face plate off which by pure dumb luck sits nicely on the lathe bed.

With a spigot, I sometimes refine it into a foot, then make the hollow as above.

I put the bowl back on the faceplate held in the groove and chisel off the nub, and sand and finish that last bit on the bottom.

After a day or more I sign, number, and put type of wood on the bottom with fine point magic marker, let dry a couple of hours and put a coat of finish on the bottom.

Some people tape the bowl onto the grooved faceplate, some use extension jaw and soft plastic nubs.

Edit: I also have a piece of 2 X 8 inch timber that I turned a spigot on the back to grab in the chuck, and faced off the front and turned round. I glued a piece of sandpaper to that and use it instead of the faceplate and plywood for smaller things.

I have also made several 6 inch pieces with various grades of sandpaper that I use for finishing the bottoms of small things or cleaning up the ends of tool handles.

Originally Posted by Willy Nelson

So, why are we using faceplates?

A screw chuck works OK below 400mm diam.

Above that I find another method is needed.

Of the various methods that I have used, faceplates are the quickest for me.

On seasoned wood I only mount twice, from start to finish.

Originally Posted by corbs

Willy, how are you mounting your blanks for the initial turning on the VM120?

I do not turn anything big as my lathe would not handle it. So I am going to guess as the method I used is between centers using drive and live centers.

But I also wait for Willy reply.

Originally Posted by corbs

Willy, how are you mounting your blanks for the initial turning on the VM120?

Hello Corbs
Bear with me, bit a tome, and I KNOW I must address Safety as well. As you know, I turn a lot of stuff that is incess of 40cm and generally 10cm or more thick

Determine which side is to be the top of the blank.

Find centre of the blank that will be the top.

I fully open the jaws of the VM120, and place the blank against the open jaws. Bring up the tailstock to the centre mark. The blank is held by friction between the open jaws and the tail stock. (Disclaimer: If this does not suit you, or you are not comfortable with this method, don't do it). I use my ARbortec turboplaner to trim the blank until true.

Lastly, don all PPE, start the lathe on a slow speed (I only use 900 RPM) and stand out of the line of fire. I true the face and may true the round, just depends.

I then cut a rough spigot that suits the jaws of the Vicmarc. I then reverse the blank and cut a good spigot on the base. I still use the tail stock. Lastly, with a good spigot cut on the base, I commence shaping etc.

This a very quick method which maximises timber and is very quick. I may have had only 1 or 2 blanks come off the lather over very many years of turning. This method certainly helps speed the process, no chuck or faceplate changes, just reversal of the blank. Works brilliantly for me.

Years ago, used a similar method, but a disc, held in the jaws and a the disc was rubber coated. Pressed the blank against the disc with the tail stock and turned a spigot. probably safer than my other method, but one more step.
Hope this helps
Sincerely
Willy
Jarrahland


Edit: This post was edited as I didn't do a spell check (grrrr) or grammar check. Plus I added a bit, then I realised, I am now a GOLDEN Member. Sounds like something out of Austin Powers. Therefore, all junior members on these forums must now refer to me as Sir Willy, Golden Member of Jarrahland

Thanks for that, I have a Nova 1624-44 which has a 400mm swing. Your method should cover most of what I'd like to do but I prefer to turn bowls with the head turned outboard. I have a nice big lump of Oak waiting to be made round so will check the dimensions of it and if it's under 400mm I will have a crack. I'm pretty sure it's going to be bigger than 400mm though.


Corbs

Corbs, if you're still interested in buying nuts with specialy thread sizes and lengths, Specialty Fasteners in Fyshwick is the way to go.

They have a room from a machinists wet dream with every imaginable thing all in little draws and boxes.

Specialty Fasteners

They will have what you want in 20 different sizes, metals, finishes and strengths.

Ev

Sir Willy,

I fully open the jaws of the VM120, and place the blank against the open jaws. Bring up the tailstock to the centre mark. The blank is held by friction between the open jaws and the tail stock. (Disclaimer: If this does not suit you, or you are not comfortable with this method, don't do it).

I also use the above and have a tire tread glued to a chunk of oak to put in the chuck for the same purpose.

I don't recall having one come out of the lathe with the above method, but early in my turning experience I had a big chunk of locust come out during an interrupted cut. MASSIVE catch! It was screwed to a steel face plate on the 20 inch swing Woodfast and broke two #10 screws, tore out two others, and went sailing 7 meters into the yard.

I'm honored that my mind runs in the same ditch as yours.

Originally Posted by corbs

Unless I'm missing something they don't come in a 1 1/4 thread.

Thanks for the suggestions so far team

Sorry, I didn't check the page. I bought a faceplate from them that takes a vicmarc adapter. I now have a Nova and my VM chucks and faceplate are fitted with 1 1/4" 8 adapters. Couldn't find them on their site, give them a bell and speak to Brian, He mayl be able to help.