Thread: buying a lathe this weekend

Originally Posted by Hangfire

This is the one I bought. 16mm Keyless Chuck - Woodturning Tools and Timber, Woodturner Accessories, Woodcarver Supplies, Woodturning Equipment

The description on the listing reads as follows...

16mm Keyless Chuck (Sometimes referred to as a Jacobs Chuck) comes with a No.2 Morse Taper. This is a precision chuck which can be used in either the Head or Tail stock. Can be used on either the PS Tools Mini Lathe or the PS Tools Maxi Lathe.

A No.2 Morse Taper is exactly the same taper on MT2 head and tailstocks.

Can't comment with any confidence on B16 taper... but I think it is something like the same taper as a MT but cut short... hopefully an engineers will come along and correct or make that clearer.

Originally Posted by Hangfire

i did try it yes - the tailstock tapered head just moved right along with it... the smallest part of the drill arbor is too big...

Did they send you a MT No3?

Machine taper - Wikipedia

Originally Posted by Colin62

I eventually ground the tang off on my jacobs chuck’s MT2 taper...

That might be the easy solution.

The tailstock on the Sherwood lathes may not have an eject function, anyway... you can always use the knock out bar to eject the shortened MT.

The spindle drive, the part which has the faceplate and takes a chuck, should also have a Morse No.2 drive (MT2) I'm not that familiar with the exact headstock set-up on your lathe, but there should be an MT2 female on the driven spindle. You may need to take the faceplate off, maybe not. If you can attach it to the headstock, the tang will not be an issue as the spindle drive female MT2 is quite long; normally.

I have that exact same 1mm to 16mm keyless chuck from Timbecon, I need to wind out the tailstock a bit before I can firmly join (attach) the Morse taper on every lathe I use it on, as the tang on the end gets in the way. The best part about having the tang on, is the ability to auto eject the keyless chuck as you wind the tailstock back in; handy feature.

Cutting or grinding off the tang, is probably going to solve your issue if you cannot attach it even after extending the tailstock piece all the way out.

Mick.

Originally Posted by Optimark

The spindle drive, the part which has the faceplate and takes a chuck, should also have a Morse No.2 drive (MT2) I'm not that familiar with the exact headstock set-up on your lathe, but there should be an MT2 female on the driven spindle. You may need to take the faceplate off, maybe not. If you can attach it to the headstock, the tang will not be an issue as the spindle drive female MT2 is quite long; normally.

I have that exact same 1mm to 16mm keyless chuck from Timbecon, I need to wind out the tailstock a bit before I can firmly join (attach) the Morse taper on every lathe I use it on, as the tang on the end gets in the way. The best part about having the tang on, is the ability to auto eject the keyless chuck as you wind the tailstock back in; handy feature.

Cutting or grinding off the tang, is probably going to solve your issue if you cannot attach it even after extending the tailstock piece all the way out.

See the 2:00 to 2:30 minute segment in the following video to show what Mick has explained very clearly...

Morse Taper Basics for Woodturners - YouTube

If that is not your problem I'm not sure I understand what is the problem... some photos might help.

I have two different lathes and a MT2 Jacobs chuck with tang. The chuck will not seat in the taper if the tailstock quills are wound fully into the tailstock housing. Wind the quill out a bit and they fit fine. Interesting - the quill on one lathe has to be further out than that on the other for the taper to seat. Both lathes will auto eject the chuck when the quill is wound back in.
Chris

An M2 x B16 is an arbor designed to take a drawbar which screws into the small end to stop the arbor from coming out when there is no load pushing on the chuck, or in metal work where there can be a heavy load trying to turn the arbor in the taper. Cutting the tang off will do the same job because you just want to shorten the arbor so it can go far enough in to seat. The reason yours may not seat is because there is normally a slot that the tang fits into in the tailstock quill which stops it turning under heavy load, and your lathe doesn't have that. Just cut it off and all will be good. If you look at the picture below you will see that the tang doesn't follow the taper so therefore the end of the tang is larger than the small end of the taper and that's why it won't go all the way in. A pity it doesn't mention this in the lathe specs as virtually all morse tapers come with the tang on the end as standard.

Arbor.JPG

20211215_192455.jpg20211215_192508.jpg20211215_192518.jpg20211215_192615.jpg20211215_192623.jpg

so here is the setup - the tailstock has a 'live centre?' on it. the taper for which is too small to allow the drill chuck inside....

i tried to take the black taper off, but it resisted teasing - and i dont want to break it....

there is no way that a drill chuck is going into that little gap....

That large black bit is part of the live centre and it will be attached to the morse taper inside the shiny metal bit you have removed. I'm not sure on the design of those tailstocks but it will either have a hole through the centre of the handle shaft and you use a metal rod to knock out the morse taper along with the rotating head. If it doesn't have the hole up the centre then winding the handle to draw the quill back in until it bottoms out and then you force it a bit harder and there will be a stop inside that will cause the morse taper to eject. The little pointy bit you have removed is not meant to be taken out as part of changing the centre for the drill.

Just found the manual and you knock the live centre out with a knockout bar which should have come with your lathe. It is item 5 on page 6.

Tailstock.JPG

Originally Posted by Hangfire

20211215_192623.jpg

so here is the setup - the tailstock has a 'live centre?' on it. the taper for which is too small to allow the drill chuck inside....

i tried to take the black taper off, but it resisted teasing - and i dont want to break it....

there is no way that a drill chuck is going into that little gap....

Are you attempting to fit an MT2 into a revolving centre, as shown in last photo?

The problem is you have the MT2 live centre still fitted into the tailstock spindle. You need to keep the spindle in the tailstock when removing/changing tapered centres and chucks.
Reassemble the tailstock by screwing the spindle all the way back onto the tailstock screw which, from your pictures, appears to be still in the tailstock and fixed to the handwheel. Make sure the slot in the spindle lines up with the end of the tailstock handle. Insert your push rod through the handwheel and tailstock screw until it contacts the end of the live centre taper and give it a tap with a hammer. The whole live centre will then come out of the quill and you can replace it with the chuck.
Good luck
Chris

PM me if you need more help.

Hi mate I think you might have a MT1 taper on your lathe. Pop the live centre out of the piece you took out of the tail stock, that should stay in there, and measure the live centre shaft, also measure the chuck shaft as well.See below for reference.let me know how you go.

1 morse taper	0.4750" 12.065mm	2.13" 54.10mm
2 morse taper	0.7000" 17.780mm	2.56" 65.02mm
3 morse taper	0.9380" 23.825mm	3.19" 81.06mm
4 morse taper	1.2310" 31.267mm	4.06" 103.12mm

it would appear that yes that is what i am attempting to do... now i need to figure out how to get the bloody thing off - its REALLY tight on... and i cant get the push rod to engage with it as the centre spike thing is a push fit and comes off quite easily without removing the outer taper...

noobtastic...

Hi Mate do you have any thin wedges like fox wedges.I have in the past taped out, gently, my live centre this way from the quill. you can then measure with a rule or verniers