Thread: Carbide tips for DIY ex USA

Hi Frank looks like I might try doing a munro style cap over it Wont be a major problem It will probably end up like the one I bought off Hughie [down at Ern's a couple of years ago] without the bend in the shaft That works well but I will try a staight shaft initially. just to have a differant tool ' the screw will be handy and I already have the tap. I'm not as well set up for metal working as Hughie has access to but still plenty of basics inc. a small lathe/mill system, press, grinders, welders etc. so may even try an articulated shaft later. cheers and thanks ww.Wally

First attempt. I cut the recess square, found out what Vern described (no major drama, though ) and bent it down in my small metal vice. That was as far as I could go without destroying the bench , but ideally would like it another 5-10 degrees down, which would make it virtually the same as a gouge with a fairly long sweep.
Hogs into wood like a freshly sharpened gouge should. Next will be the hollower with a long round bar.

BTW, Wally and Hughie, the tap for the screws is 4 x 0.7. And all I have is a drill press and a grinder.

Intriguing, Frank. Especially looking at that first pic. Not seen an insert tool with that orientation before. You might be onto something there.

Except for the positive rake on the edge, it's a similar profile to some Bowl Gouges grinds. But, with that positive rake on the edge, a shear slicing cut (with the tool rolled onto its side, as others have already recommended) may work a little less aggressively.

Will you use the same orientation on your long round hollowing shaft?

I can imagine the chips are flying in your workshop, if not the blanks...

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Originally Posted by woodwork wally

....... looks like I might try doing a munro style cap over it ......

....... so may even try an articulated shaft later.

Will be very interested to see what you come up with, WWW.

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Originally Posted by NeilS

Intriguing, Frank. Especially looking at that first pic. Not seen an insert tool with that orientation before. You might be onto something there.

Except for the positive rake on the edge, it's a similar profile to some Bowl Gouges grinds. But, with that positive rake on the edge, a shear slicing cut (with the tool rolled onto its side, as others have already recommended) may work a little less aggressively.

Will you use the same orientation on your long round hollowing shaft?

I can imagine the chips are flying in your workshop, if not the blanks...

.....

Yes Neil, but I do not think it is a new idea, if I understand Vern correctly (I have not seen the actual tool, I'll look for pictures): "The Vermec presents it's lipped cutter angled down towards the work so the inside bevel of the lip is almost vertical" . (Actually, now that I read it again, should that not be "horizontal"? That's how I interpreted it, but might be just a matter of what axis we refer to...)

Any suggestions before you test it?

PS the third experiment will be using a goose neck bar, to make you happy.

Originally Posted by Frank&Earnest

............BTW, I have bought a box of 100 countersank socket screws (M4, 0.70X12) for $24+GST and the metric tap for them. Looks like I will have a few spares............

Off the top of my head, they sound like the screws that hold the jaws on Vicmark chucks - sell 'em off in sets of 8 to the Vicmark owners Frank I recently bought a set of 8 for spares and paid roughly half what you paid for a whole box - not happy Jan!

Originally Posted by TTIT

Off the top of my head, they sound like the screws that hold the jaws on Vicmark chucks - sell 'em off in sets of 8 to the Vicmark owners Frank I recently bought a set of 8 for spares and paid roughly half what you paid for a whole box - not happy Jan!

Actually, when I bought those for the Supernova / GPW chuck jaws last year, they were even cheaper IIRC.. They are larger, though, 6mm diametre, these are only 4mm, I do not think they would be good for the Vicmark, especially if the jaws are interchangeable. If you look at my previous insert tools, those are the screws I rounded on top to hold the square inserts.

Same as Wally, although I am not so sure he's a "guru". A comprehensive review on alternative mounts and expected/achieved results in a couple of weeks' time. Fair price?

Thats very fair, might be struggling with the time frame, but will see how I go. Ideally 3-4 minimum would be nice.

"The Vermec presents it's lipped cutter angled down towards the work so the inside bevel of the lip is almost vertical" .

This is fairly standard with the Woodcut cup tool and McJings sell a cup tool also with a 10-15' angle.

Originally Posted by hughie

Thats very fair, might be struggling with the time frame, but will see how I go. Ideally 3-4 minimum would be nice.

Well, that was just to ask you some sort of commitment, I can hardly send out the bailiff if you do not deliver, can I?

Well, that was just to ask you some sort of commitment, I can hardly send out the bailiff if you do not deliver, can I?

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No worries, all things being equal I 'll have a go at some Norfolk pine Ray (Wheelinaround) gave me well with in the time frame, just did not want to commit and come a gutsa.
Just gotta get the lathe up and running. Its being over hauled...well a bit of a kerosene refit anyway.
But I appreciate the offer

Here are the other two musketeers. As expected, drilling a perfectly orthogonal hole in the right place on a small surface cut by hand at an angle was not easy. I managed pretty well on the straight round shaft, but when there is also a goose neck shape to deal with.... Oh well, I have put a crown washer under it and hope for the best.

A few more days to make the handles and they should be ready for a test session with Neil.

Here are the other two musketeers. As expected, drilling a perfectly orthogonal hole in the right place on a small surface cut by hand at an angle was not easy. I managed pretty well on the straight round shaft, but when there is also a goose neck shape to deal with.... Oh well, I have put a crown washer under it and hope for the best.

Looks are not important as long as it does what its intended to do. Crown washer is that to prevent it coming loose?

Goose neck, just put a second bend in your right angle bend shaft and it will work fine.

Originally Posted by hughie

Looks are not important as long as it does what its intended to do. Crown washer is that to prevent it coming loose?

Goose neck, just put a second bend in your right angle bend shaft and it will work fine.

The thinking (totally uneducated guess ) behind the crown washer is to pack the thin uneven gap between the shaft and the cutter caused by the screw being not perfectly orthogonal to the surface. Had it been the straight shaft I would just have cut it off and tried again, but could not do that without killing the bend. As regards the second bend, I was thinking of testing this tool shape first, thinking that the lever action would be tolerable given the short length of the overhang, becuse of the better accessibility.

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.