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Thread: Chainsaws

  1. #1
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    Default Chainsaws

    Hi everyone,

    It has been ages since I last posted anything, but that is because I have been practicing my woodworking!

    I would like to ask a question about chainsaws as I am at the stage where glueing blocks of wood together to make blanks is boring and buying turning blanks is expensive. So I want to be able to mill my own blanks as I have a friend who can supply lots of timber from chopped down trees.

    I have a budget of about $250 for the chainsaw and have had a look at a few. It seems to me to be a toss up between these two chainsaws,

    Mcculloch CS400T (made by Husqvarna)

    McCulloch CS 400T - 18" - Chainsaws

    and the Ryobi RCS5145N

    RYOBI New Zealand: 51cc 2 Stroke Petrol Chainsaw (457mm) (RCS5145N)

    On paper the Ryobi seems the better one to go with to me but I just wanted to know from people who know more than me about chainsaws if that is the right choice or is there something even better out there for the price?

    If this is in the wrong section please feel free to move it. I did have a look but couldn't find a chainsaw forum.

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  3. #2
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    Default

    I was told by the mechanic that fixed my very old mcculloch that the New ones are a chuck away item? but that's just one person's judgement!
    my Chainsaw was my dads early 1980's model and has had a hard Life but won't part with it as to replace it is over $1000.
    not sure if secondhand would be a good call?

  4. #3
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    I had a McCulloch for years but it got to the stage it wasn't worth fixing.

    From what I have heard and seen the modern McCullochs are not much chop.

    Sorry to say, but anything in your budget range probably won't be much of a saw.

    Perhaps an electric one would be a better choice.

  5. #4
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    Perth
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    Default Maybe

    Maybe try and up your budget a little and get a 2nd hand Stihl 034 AV, for around say $350

    Back in 1983 ish (might have been 84) I bought one new for around $830, which came with muffs and a visor and hard hat - couple falling wedges etc...

    I used it for ~ another 4 years in the wheat belt gathering mallet firewood - then another 20 odd years on the farm and serving double duty at our sawmill for docking Jarrah saw logs.

    Then I gave it to my eldest son - (Who works for DEC/PAW) and he has used it for fire-wooding these last few years...

    So it's ~ 30 years old.

    They had a full magnesium crank case and chrome lined bore.

    Its on its original piston cylinder and rings and still going like a champ.

    Lad had the local stihl agent take the head off for a look see and the chrome lining above the exhaust port is just starting to peel a little.

    Were he to replace the cylinder with a new one (and put a kit thru it i.e piston rings and bearings as long as he used the OEM parts and the new 036 Stihl super cylinder will fit with very minor modification) I reckon it would go another 20 years without a problem.

    They just seem impossible to kill.

    Sadly he sold it last night...(for around $350) as he is buying 2 new stihl 066' magnums.

    As long as you keep up the maintenance on them - they seem to go forever - virtually bullet proof.

    Others mileage will vary no doubt.

    Cheers

  6. #5
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    South Australia
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    Default

    Don't expect too much out of a $250 saw.
    At this price point they are really only a hobby saw suitable for use around the garden.
    I agree a second-hand 034 would be a much better investment.
    Just about impossible to kill one of these.
    Cheers

    Tim
    Some days I turns thisaway, somedays I turns thataway and other days I don't give a stuff so I don't turn at all.

  7. #6
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    Feb 2013
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    Also worth considering PPE as part of your budget - at the minimum a pair of chainsaw chaps (Chainsaw Protective Clothing)

    You might want to also have a look at a chainsaw course especially if you've never used one before. It's all fun until someone loses an eye (or leg)

    training.gov.au - AHCARB205A - Operate and maintain chainsaws

  8. #7
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    Oct 2007
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    Default

    If your budget is a max of $250 then I would consider a Stihl electric. If you can bring the timber to your workshop then there is a lot in favour of electric chainsaws.

  9. #8
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    Default

    I feel victim to buying a cheep bramar saw from ebay, it had all the right specs and price @ under $ 200.00 . Delivered in a short time etc. very happy with the purchase! Until I had to use it!!!
    it constantly leaked bar oil, for every cut I made, the saw had to be stopped and the chain adjusted. It vibrated like crazy, but being male, and the great deal I'd made I could over look these things, especially if the wife asked how the new saw was going. Grumble, grumble, grumble. It got to the stage I left it out it were I shouldn't have and it was stolen that was a happy day! I did end up buying the $1000.00 husky, and haven't looked back, just wished I'd spent the $200.00 a little wiser.
    But I still had mates that come to cut timber with their $300.00 specials from bunnings, fresh chain and still wonder why the they can't get through a 6 inch log and after four meters have problems!
    Still and husky have specials for the entry level saws around the $400 mark, treat them well you have lots of years service from them.

  10. #9
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    Default

    Thanks for all of the advice guys, I was talking to my Dad last night about it and he said he had just bought one of the Mcculloch saws from Bunnings and that I could borrow it to have a play. I also have borrowed a stihl from a friend so I will try both, compare and go from there. I wont be using the saw everyday or anything like that so will see how I go. Like my Dad said, why buy a Rolls Royce just to go do the shopping in when a Toyota does the job!

  11. #10
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    Default

    Have a look at the small Stihl 210 -270's etc. They are small but capable saws.

    I can second the comments on the 034's. Used one for years on & off in surveying. Always dependable. If McCulloch make their new chainsaws like their brushcutters be wary.

    Talk to your local repairers for both petrol & electric chainsaws. They will soon tell you which ones they see most!

  12. #11
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    Default

    I have a Stihl 029 with 20 inch bar I bought used from a pawn shop. It is dependable and powerful. It leaks bar oil. It is best to drain gasoline and bar oil if you are not going to use the saw the next day. Husqvarna has a good reputation here also.

    It is good that you will be able to try a saw. Bigger is not always better, as you are lifting and maneuvering more weight. If you don't use the saw several times a seek you will not have the muscles trained to operate a long session.

    I'm good for an hour or two max with the Stihl.

    I also have a selection of electric chain saws from 10 to 16 inches. A 16 inch saw will cut a 30 inch trunk. Keep in mind the size of timber you will be getting so as not to get more saw than you need.

    I'm a 74 year old geezer. If you are 25 and lift weights and run five miles every day, get whatever you can afford.

    I bought all used at auction or from flea markets. With a sharp chain the 16 inch makes short work of breaking down bowl blanks. I like crazy grain from stumps and crotches so the blocks will not split with a hammer and wedge.

    I make the blocks a bit longer than the diameter and then split them down the middle with the saw.

    I use a Dremel rotary tool and a proper size grind stone to sharpen the saws. I find it is faster and more consistent than using a file. I find I can get the chain as sharp as a professional sharpening shop.

    With a gas saw the helmet, face screen, ear protection, all-in-one is good. Also at the very least, good stout shoes and heavy jeans.

    Below are some of the bowl blanks and found timber. The limp chain on the saw is after a long session. The chain adjustment on that saw does not hold too well and needs tightening after a couple of hours. For $20 I have had years of service. The big chunk of cherry in the back of my Ford Festiva / Kia Pride is one of four picked up from the side of the road.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    So much timber, so little time.

    Paul

  13. #12
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    Default If

    If you don't buy a set of chainsaw chaps first - don't buy a chainsaw.

    They can be very unforgiving and you get no do overs when it all goes wrong.

    Sooner or later it does, (go horribly wrong).

    Its not if - its when.

    Cheers

    Iva Onearm - useless chainsaw operator.

    (I Scarem - road train drivers cuzzin & Ive Noleg - useless crock shooters uncle).

  14. #13
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    Default

    I agree with a bit more quality. I've had a Stihl 028 for 25 years and it hasn't skipped a beat. All our houses have been wood heating only and I have cut it all with the Stihl. I'm all in favour of safety equipment but I've never had chainsaw chaps. I'm unsure how my leg would get close enough to the bar? I have found the all-in-one helmet, ear muffs and fine shield fantastic over the years; no fogging up inside goggles and the helmet doesn't fall off when you bend over because the integral ear muffs hold it on. We recently bought one of the small Stihl saws for ~ $300 on special for pruning and it does a great job on bigger stuff too.

    Bruce

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCC View Post
    I agree with a bit more quality. I've had a Stihl 028 for 25 years and it hasn't skipped a beat. All our houses have been wood heating only and I have cut it all with the Stihl. I'm all in favour of safety equipment but I've never had chainsaw chaps. I'm unsure how my leg would get close enough to the bar? . . . . .
    That's probably what the 10,000+ people that injured their legs using a Chainsaw in the US in 1999 said.
    This is a very instructive image showing what can happen - the 30% injury rate on the hands is from folks thinking they can hold a piece of wood or a branch and hold the CS with the other hand while cutting

    Since this study was undertaken and chaps have become more widespread the number of leg injuries has dropped significantly.

    There is an excellent video on youtube of a near miss leg injury showing how easily leg injuries can happened.
    An experienced CS operator pulls the saw out of a cut and revs it up and lets go of the trigger handle - the saw spins around and almost takes his leg out.

    Not many people are aware that chaps don't work against electric chainsaws.

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    V

    There is an excellent video on youtube of a near miss leg injury showing how easily leg injuries can happened.
    An experienced CS operator pulls the saw out of a cut and revs it up and lets go of the trigger handle - the saw spins around and almost takes his leg out.
    Do you have a link to this Bob?
    Cheers

    DJ


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