Thread: Cheap cordless chainsaw at masters

Originally Posted by Ubernoob

I'd imagine moving to a chain that isn't made from soft cheese would help extend battery life if you don't want to keep touching up the chains throughout the day.

I have to learn to sharpen chains, I bought an EZE Lap sharpener and the saw wanted to cut circles, I later realised that the guide markings were far from correct so I'm going to get some chisels and will learn how to do it properly.

Saw wanting to cut in circles is caused by the following;

1) Left hand (LH) and right hand (RH) cutters are of different length or different top cutter plate filing angles.
The LH and RH cutters must have the same angles.
If you're using a conventional raker guide the LH and RH cutters need to be be the same length*.

2) Uneven height bar guide rails.
Eventually the bar rails wear. If one rail wears a tinse more that the other this will accelerate the wear on the lower side and very soon the chain will tip over in the cut forcing the chain to cut in circles.
Bar rails need to be "Trued" or square up every so often. Hold a square across the rails to check this.
The rails on quality bars will be too hard to file so something like a belt sander and a metal working belt can be used. The other way I have done it is with a new 9" grinder wheel in a table saw with just a 1/4 of the wheel poking through. Very light pressure and constantly moving the bar will get it true.

3) Wrong gauge chain in use.
Chains come in a variety of gauges (e.g. 0.050", 0,058" and 0.063")
If a 0.050" chain is used on a bar with a 0.063" groove the chain and bar will wear quickly and the situation 2) above will occur.
Be sure to true up the bar before replacing the chain
If the chain has been used for some time it is most likely cactus - never put a worn chain on a new bar.

* Contrary to the usual advice, cutters do not need to be exactly the same length - what they really need to have is the same "raker angle"
This is raker angle.
Its the angle between the top of the raker, the cutter tip and the bottom of the ruler (laying across the top of adjacent cutters.
If that is the same on all cutters the cutter lengths can vary significantly and it won't matter.
rakercorrect.jpg


Once again a reminder of the offer to diagnose chains on posted pictures.

Originally Posted by dai sensei

Might I suggest the problem wasn't a blunt chain, just the normal accumulation of good shavings whilst ripping, that even the best saws have issues with if you are not careful.

Me, I am very happy with mine, the trailer is pretty much full (down one side) with portions of now 9 trees
Attachment 385854

Very possible - I'm a novice chainsaw user (not those are words to inspire fear!).

Dragging up an old post.
Update After about 12 charges it has suddenly stopped, won't run at all.
Battery fully charged & bar oil always topped up before using.
Waiting to hear from Masters.

Anyone else having hassles ?

Col

Don't think you will here very much Masters closed 2 weeks ago

Geez no good Col, sounds like something is seized or the contacts are dirty maybe.

Mind is still running well, touch wood, cutting the odd tree and burl across the country

Found an email address for Masters returns,.
After a few emails the saw was returned with a pre-paid label supplied by Masters.
Money was reimbursed in full. Thank you Masters.
Col

Good result ! The use of a saw for a while at (ultimately) no cost. Probably given you some idea what features you'd look for in a replacement too.