Choosing a chuck for faceplate work

**rsser** · 6th November 2012, 03:08 PM

In a previous life I sat on a committee in an organisational unit that was charged with recommending a desktop computer brand for all users.

Of course there were Mac fans and PC fans who argued vigorously from their corners.

I suggested that the choice could be decided if we settled some questions.

One, what was the most common computing task?
Two, what was the best s/w to do it?
Three, what was the best h/w to run that s/w?
Four, what was the most common s/w and h/w experience existing among users as a qualifier to the first 3 questions, as retraining should've been on the agenda if needed.

I won't bore you with the outcome but a similar logic applies to this question.

1. What kinds of workpieces do you want to mount?
2. What are the best or most versatile jaws to do it?
3. What chucks will hold those jaws?
4. For versatility, what's the exchangeability btwn jaws and chucks?
5. What's the jaw range travel? EG. in this respect, a VM 100 beats an SN2 by a decent extent.

Taking into account chuck, workpiece and lathe compatability.

Start with what you want to do and work back from there. Don't think about 'what chuck?' first off.

**dr4g0nfly** · 7th November 2012, 06:58 AM

I agree with you - almost. the SN2 jaw carriers do not extend beyond the chuck body, which in an adjacent thread has been noted as being a knuckle chewer.

Originally Posted by Tim the Timber Turner

there will be 4 jaws, protruding and revolving at high speed, in the same area as you are going to put your fingers.

However, have you guy's seen this one yet. Buy the body and mounting plate to suit your lathe, then the jaw carriers are changeable for both the 'proud' and 'recessed' ridge type chucks which means you can use just about any Jaw set you want from any other chuck manufacturer.

Axminster Evolution SK114 Chuck

Please note, I have no affiliation to Axminster - just a satisfied customer.

**rsser** · 7th November 2012, 11:16 AM

Looks like a shmick chuck Dragonfly.

Stainless would be nice for chronic 'wet-turners'.

Can't see on the website where it says it will take almost all other makers' jaws though.

....

Protruding jaws: never found that to be an issue*. Some turners slide a sock over them or a bit of car tyre tube; maybe that was covered in the other thread.

*Added: but in later years I moved to shark jaws to mount bowls and that provides more clearance.

**hughie** · 7th November 2012, 05:48 PM

I have the old SN2 125mm dia with the big jaws that will take at the smallest dia of 112mm. It does me fine although I have used my screw chuck a great deal until my recent disaster. Now I have my Silky Oak blank mounted on the a Woodfast faceplate. I have to admit the Woodfast FP is one of the heaviest I have seen for such a small lathe.

**rsser** · 7th November 2012, 06:41 PM

I used the screw in the VM100 with many bowls. IIRC Raffan advises adding a wood washer for better stability.

Then discovered faceplate rings. Great to have several jobs on the go.

Then Shark Jaws, and added to the rings.

Now wondering whether that rig is the best. Getting more flex in bowl rims than in the past but memory is a fickle beast.

Will backtrack to shorter reach dovetail jaws and see.

**hughie** · 9th November 2012, 11:27 AM

I have tended to reply on the screw chuck for ease of use and turn a foot on the bottom to match my jaws. I also have a couple backing plates for the screw chuck 100mm and 150mm in 3mm stainless.

I finish the outside including the a primary coat of finish, turn it around and finish the inside. Minimal handling and its all over fairly quickly with little set up or moving the blank around.

I have a Stebb, but it strikes as more suited to spindles than to what I like to do. It adds an extra operation to the work.

**NeilS** · 9th November 2012, 06:27 PM

Originally Posted by rsser

In a previous life I sat on a committee...

Of course there were Mac fans and PC fans who argued vigorously from their corners.

Ditto.... and I could never get those Mac lovers to accept that we couldn't afford to buy everyone a Mac (they used to cost almost twice as much) yet it was the Mac-o-philes that were always wanting the latest model...

Originally Posted by rsser

1. What kinds of workpieces do you want to mount?

And, what method do you want to use to mount them?

When I'm green turning and will later remount when seasoned, I hold the bottom of my bowls in contraction mode. It's quick and doesn't matter if there are jaw marks on the tenon as it will be returned later.

When I'm turning seasoned wood (pre-roughed or seasoned blank) through to finish, I hold the bottom of the bowl in expansion mode in a recess on the completed foot.

These two methods of mounting bowls and hollow forms are the most significant factor for me in selecting jaw sizes and profiles.

And, yes, nowadays I buy chucks to fit jaw set and not jaws to fit my chuck(s).

Jaw sets at last count:: 15, not including duplicates or oddities like Cole jaws

Chucks at last count:: 13, not including some golden oldies

Why so many chucks? Life is too short to be spending time swapping jaws around on chucks or looking for screws in the curlies.

Originally Posted by hughie

I finish the outside including the a primary coat of finish, turn it around and finish the inside. Minimal handling and it's all over fairly quickly with little set up or moving the blank around.

Ditto...

**dr4g0nfly** · 10th November 2012, 06:42 AM

Originally Posted by rsser

Stainless would be nice for chronic 'wet-turners'.

Now what a good idea that would be.

Originally Posted by rsser

Can't see on the website where it says it will take almost all other makers' jaws though.

Ooop's!

Sorry, posted the wrong chuck details - try this one the Versa-Chuck from Tool Post.

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