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Thread: Chuck jaw stuck
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6th March 2008, 04:37 PM #1
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Chuck jaw stuck
Hi
This may prove of interest to someone .
Today I went to remove the longnose jaws from my Vicmarc 120 chuck and found I could not remove one of the screws . Of course it had to be one deep in the recess .I spent about half an hour struggling with it . I had the chuck on the lathe and the indexing pin in to lock it and was putting so much preasure on it I was expecting the T bar allan key to break . Eventually the key would slip out of the screw hole . I squirted WD40 in the hole and went and had a cup of tea . Came back and still no joy so I rang Vicmarc for advice . Their suggestion was to put a pin punch down the hole and give the screw a thump and the shock should loosen it .Well I don't have a pin punch but I do have a brass knockout rod which was just the right size so I sat the chuck on the bench , put the rod in the hole and and gave a good thump with a lump hammer . I put the chuck back on the lathe , put the allan key back in ,gritted my teeth and applied preasure . I heard a click and joy o joy it came free . No damage except a slight burring of the allan screw and I have a couple of spares of those .I learn something new every day.
It is my nomal practice to just nip up the screws when I change jaws but I have noticed on other occasions when I go to remove them that they are abnormally tight . Any suggestions how to prevent this ?
Ted
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6th March 2008, 05:17 PM #2
Hoarder of Timber
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Get your self some Silver Grade Anti Seize made by Loctite and just put a very small dab on the screw
Cheers
DJ
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6th March 2008, 09:19 PM #3
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Oil the screws.
Just close them.
Replace when slightly worn on the hex hole (use else where).
Do not leave them done up for ages (seem to stick)
Tap when stuck.
(dont ask how I know these things)
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6th March 2008, 10:57 PM #4
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Dodgy brother
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Yep, second this.
Originally Posted by DJ's Timber
Got a tube years ago for spark plugs in Ford alloy heads. Use it on anything you don't want seizing up.
Little bit goes a long way.
The beatings will continue until morale improves.
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7th March 2008, 06:56 AM #5
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Silverglade
I have a can of Silverglade that I use on my cast iron tools to stop rust and make them slide easier, is this the same stuff you are talking about or is there another silverglade product?? Originally Posted by DJ's Timber
Sarge
"He who dies with the most toys wins"
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7th March 2008, 08:03 AM #6
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Totally different products. Originally Posted by Sarge
Silbergleit Is for machine surfaces to stop "sticking". Anti seize is a differnet kettle of fish which enables threads to lock but be easily undone when needed. Sometimes.
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7th March 2008, 11:04 AM #7
Hoarder of Timber
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Cheers
DJ
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10th March 2008, 04:37 PM #8
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chuck jaws stuck
Thanks for the feedback .
Ted
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11th March 2008, 05:42 AM #9
Popcorn bowls and such
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BTDT.... Yep... antisieze is the stuff to use. If you don't have that, a little drop of synthetic motor oil on the screw will keep it from sticking.
Al
Some minds are like concrete thoroughly mixed up and permanently set.
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11th March 2008, 08:03 PM #10
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Anti Anti-Sieze
As an aside to this post I recently had one of the highly paid engineers at my place of employment ask me to anti-sieze the bolts on his boat trailer. Fair enough you might say, however he asked me if I could mix some loctite in with it so the bolts wouldn't work loose when he was driving down bumpy roads. Gotta love 'em
To grow old is inevitable.... To grow up is optional
Confidence, the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation.
What could possibly go wrong.
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11th March 2008, 08:35 PM #11
aka The Wooden Potter
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One of the draw backs of any lubrication on chuck scrolls be they wood or metal turning jaws is that they will all attract dust.
In the machine shop it is not considered very wise to lubricate the chuck.
As that any metal dust or swarf will remain in the chuck and cause premature wear.
If its stiff and hard to move, then generally it is throughly inspected for the problem and fixed.
The same would apply to wood turning chucks, if lubrication is required. Then perhaps a dry type lubrcant would best serve the problem.
http://www.outdoorsuperstore.com/pro...sp?prod=281283
https://www.micro-tools.com/store/it...emCode=11016-F
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