Thread: Ci1 Easy Rougher

i think one day i will have to try this tool could be very useful

Originally Posted by new_guy90

i think one day i will have to try this tool could be very useful

Where abouts in Qld are you, do you want to try that one, it was sent to me by Craig to review, I passed it on to TTIT, if you want to try it, we can arrange it.

I agree with Vern, it has a place as one of the tools in the collection. What I find is its tough going ripping the bark etc off a burl. So for me here it will shine, but with a long handle and a solid curved rest.

For me its essentially a further progreesion in these tools Oland tool - Jordan and then the C1 etc

Thanks Hughie, I was sure you or others would touch on this without me needing to introduce the comparison. The traditional Oland tool cutter, from what I can gather, is fingernail shaped and is less aggressive than the Ci1, a compromise between maximum roughing effectiveness and finishing. It would appear to me that a square insert with rounded corners mounted at 45 degrees, so as to present the rounded corner, would achieve a similar result. What do you think?

The Ci1 looks like the tool itself is pretty much some square stock with a threaded hole... The magic is in the inserts?

If that is the case I imagine that ordering inserts would cost a LOT less in terms of postage and the inserts are not all that expensive (US$13 or something). Thus you can have a Ci1 without a big expenditure.

Any thoughts?

Yep, you are missing about 6 weeks' discussion.

Originally Posted by CameronPotter

The Ci1 looks like the tool itself is pretty much some square stock with a threaded hole... The magic is in the inserts?....

Almost....

The angle that the insert is presented to the timber also makes a difference & for this reason the 'pad' on the tip of the tool holder that the insert sits on is tilted back at a slight angle.

Next...

A point not to be over looked.
Somewhere in the instructions, (oops, blokes don't read them. ) it says not to have any more than a 25mm over hang.
Since both & I regularly do so with our HT HS1 & get away with it, we found out the hard way.
BTW. To do so is classed as misuse.

Further more....

I reckon the real secret to this tool is the chip deflector 'cos if you use it straight on with a plunge cut without the chip deflector you will carry out a self administered Septoplasty with wood chips.

Septoplasty ......... clever dick.

soth

[ It would appear to me that a square insert with rounded corners mounted at 45 degrees, so as to present the rounded corner, would achieve a similar result. What do you think?

[/QUOTE]

Sorry Frank some how I missed this one.

Anyway, yes I think your right. I have played around with the same idea.The only thing is it wont produce a smooth finish but it does bite real well.

Thanks Cliff,

I would have thought that the angle of cut could be corrected by tilting the tool ever so slightly, but maybe that changes the mechanics of the way you present the tool.

As for the other two points:

1. Shame about the lack of overhang - it would be a nice tool for aggressive hollowing by the sounds of it.
2. I would think that the chip deflector concept could be fitted to any tool?

Anyway, it sounds as though a home-made version with the good tips would still be a "knock-off" type quality rather than the real thing.

Cheers

Cam

Cameron if you go to a round nose tip then the overhang problem is not much to worry about.
I have several round nose cutters of different dia's and there little or no problem. The round nose it not so fierce.

Sounds like I had better get a traditional Oland type tool then...

now your talking..................subtle as a broken leg

But I use TCT recycled old ones pm if you dont have access to any.

Originally Posted by CameronPotter

Sounds like I had better get a traditional Oland type tool then...

Well, not really Cameron!
If the tool you are looking for is for removing lots of timber very quickly, there is turn of very out of shape blank, into a first stage form shaping, then you will not find anything that can do it like this tool does, regardless if you use the original or a well built copy. The deflector is essential for this type of tool, due to what it does to the timber,(remove vast amount, fast), the shavings have to go somewhere, the original defector design is just a example of what can be done to stop shavings to hit you in the face or body. Now, anyone can make deflectors for their tools, they can be bigger, different shape, added to the tool in many ways and can even be made as a "trap" for use with your dust collector. Would be a very simple job to install on the tool a trap instead a deflector, actually the affixing system can be the same. You only need a square trap 6"x 6" preferentially (maybe you can go smaller 4"x 4") , a piece of 3" light flexible hose and an adaptor to connect it to the 4" dust collector system. This is all light stuff and from the way the tool works, you can have at least 90% of the shavings being "sucked" directly into the dust collector bins. (no mess)

If you can't understand what I'm suggesting with the trap system, let me know I will make a sketch of it.

Cheers
RBTCO