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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Brushgrove, NSW, Australia
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    77
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    261

    Default Cleaning/Maintenance of VM100 chuck

    I have had my VM100 for about 6 years. Just noticed today that when I clamped a bowl base into the jaws they were not turning true, ie the bowl was not centered.

    Figured there might be some dust or junk in them so looked up the manual and all it said was clean as necessary.

    I poured some metho through the jaws and a fair bit of junk came out.

    Manual also says to oil occasionally .

    Two questions -

    1) What oil?

    2) what is the best way to clean the jaws? Should I open them up and give the insides a good clean. If so, are there any precautions I need to take - ie springs that would pop out. Which bits do I unscrew.

    Maybe there is a web site with illustrated instructions - I am a bit cautious about opening up something like this.

    Was metho the correct thing to clean with, or is there something better?

    Thanks
    Don

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Sunbury, Victoria
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    38
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    Default

    Funny thing is Don, i just finished cleaning my VM120 chuck this morning, although its not that old.. i too had a fair bit of gunk come out of it..

    I used metho to give it a good clean, then i sprayed WD-40 in every place i could fit the nozzle.. looks like a brand new chuck... i wouldnt know what oil to use.. but WD-40 is as good as any...

    As for the inside and taking it apart... i dont think there would be any springs... but i would try and find out more info b4 attempting to take it apart!

    Good luck!
    Chuck Norris dosnt Push Himself up when he does a push-up... He pushes the world DOWN!!

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
    Age
    71
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    12,746

    Default

    Do you mean the jaw slides?

    If you pull the stop pin then you can unwind and remove the slides and clean up the faces. Some turners buy a set of slides for each set of jaws to cut down on jaw change time.

    Maybe use a silicone lube spray - not sticky so doesn't attract the dust.

    Otherwise ring Vic or Marcus at Clontarf and get the real poop.
    Cheers, Ern

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Brushgrove, NSW, Australia
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    77
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    261

    Default

    Thanks Ern,
    Found the pin.

    Tried pulling it out with needle point pliers - no luck. Any suggestions as to how I get it out?

    Thanks
    Don

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
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    Melbourne, Aus.
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    Default

    Not done it myself Don. Maybe needle point vise grips?

    It's a split tube yeah? So crush and pull?
    Cheers, Ern

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
    Age
    64
    Posts
    13,371

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Don Nethercott View Post
    Found the pin.

    Tried pulling it out with needle point pliers - no luck. Any suggestions as to how I get it out?
    Quote Originally Posted by rsser View Post
    Not done it myself Don. Maybe needle point vise grips?

    It's a split tube yeah? So crush and pull?
    Not having a VM chuck, I can't comment, but... once you've pulled the pin, I'd be inclined to see if the hole can be tapped to take a long grub-screw a lá the Teknatool chucks, instead of replacing the pin.

    It'd make future disassembly/maintenance soooo much easier.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Brushgrove, NSW, Australia
    Age
    77
    Posts
    261

    Default Removing pin

    Found the answer - on a UK site of all places.

    Have to remove the back plate of the chuck and tap out the pin with a flat ended nail. You'd think that this info would be in the manual.

    Ern (rsser) you said some turners have extra slides to facilitate change of jaws. When do you change jaws? - does this mean I have to unscrew the jaws from the slides to fit things such as shark jaws and step jaws??

    Don

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    5,773

    Default

    I would have thaught that light machine oil would have been tha go.
    Sewing machine oil or my favorite air tool oil.
    Again My expectation would have been petorochemical solvent such as kero.
    Metho is onlt partialy sucessfull as a cleaning solvent when mineral oils are in use.
    liberal amounts of LMO will bring lots of stuff out with it...... of course it will spit everywhere next time you spin it up:eek:

    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Emerald, QLD
    Posts
    4,489

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Don Nethercott View Post
    Have to remove the back plate of the chuck and tap out the pin with a flat ended nail. You'd think that this info would be in the manual.
    Much easier to pull it out with some vice grips as Ern suggested - the pin is only there to stop you from 'accidentally' unwinding the slides completely.
    Quote Originally Posted by Don Nethercott View Post
    When do you change jaws? - does this mean I have to unscrew the jaws from the slides to fit things such as shark jaws and step jaws??
    Don
    Yep - 8 screws every time - proper pain in the @ss! Though I don't have the extra slides myself, if the budget ever allows, I'll be doing the same thing.
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Croydon
    Age
    55
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    178

    Default

    I've a vm100 as well, bought it shortly after the FIL presented me with the GMC years ago. A change of insert and it found a new home on the leda.

    Anyway, every now and then I wind out the jaws fully and spray some CRC or WD40 all over the scroll, then again with the jaws wound in. I then fire up the lathe to fling out all the crap.

    Then I give it a squirt or two of singer oil. Works a treat. My shed tends to be on the damp side at times so I run some oiled wet/dry on the outside of the chuck with the late at min speed to remove any surface rust.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
    Age
    71
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    Default

    Yeah Don, what TTIT said. And I've tried a straight allen key in a cordless drill to speed it up but don't recommend it. Chops the sockets in the screws up. Then again, the screws are cheap.

    Re a slide for each jaw piece:
    Course you'd need to practice feeding them in in the right order/place ... on the other hand, maybe you could save the cost of an eccentric chuck ;-}
    Cheers, Ern

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Flinders Shellharbour
    Posts
    5,719

    Thumbs up my two bobs worth

    I poured some metho through the jaws and a fair bit of junk came out.

    Manual also says to oil occasionally .

    1) What oil?

    Was metho the correct thing to clean with, or is there something better?
    Hi Don,

    I reckon meths will do fine as a cleaner the high evaporation rate is a benefit. When oiling I personally go to a dry lube setup. Teflon, graphite etc there are many around.

    http://www.engineeringtalk.com/news/klu/klu119.html
    http://www.cleantec.com.au/FHS/FHS%2...lubrication%22
    http://www.industrysearch.com.au/pro...d.aspx?ID=4856

    The reason being any oil will attract and retain wood dust. This is why they suggest to use oil only occasionally. Also some types of timber are very abrasive due to the silica content. All this will only cause premature wear on your chucks

    http://www.cuprofor.hn/ingles/investigacion.htm
    http://www.exotichardwoods-africa.com/makore.htm
    http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf1996/loehn96a.pdf
    Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso


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