Thread: cole jaws part 2

Any particular reason you mounted it so far along the jaws?

I made a similar setup, but used rubber door-stoppers mounted upside down for jaws. They're only about 1" long and I press the piece against the ply section to "square it up" but it means I can apply I bit more force when turning without worrying about knocking it out of true. (Although out of the jaws, yes... )

Now you're just trying (successfully) to confuse me!! I swear this wasn't here when I replied to Cole jaws part 1. Doh!!#$% Part 1 - didn't click - must be that silly zone thing! Nice one Hughie!

Very nice lidded box, Hughie!

G'Day Hughie

Nice lolly jar, wish I'd seen your cole jaws before I bought mine, would have saved some money!

cheers
Bernie

[Any particular reason you mounted it so far along the jaws?

Skew theres only about 10mm clearance as the screw heads stick up. The darn knob is fairly high.


thanks for the comments guys

I like the way these jaws work. I think they'll be better than the bought ones, which will not fit "everything" that will fit inside the outer circumference. With another set of offset holes, these'll hold anything. Gotta make a set of these...anyone need a set of cole jaws for a SN2?
Greenies, Hughie.

One of my complaints about Cole Jaws is that they're pretty much useless for oddly shaped bowls (eg. natural edged) or anything not perfectly round, yet these are the ones I usually need some way to reverse mount.

However, seeing Hughies set-up, it has given me an idea that may overcome this... I'm tempted to try it out for myself but it'll take a few hours work... and first I'd rather see if anyone can see any potential problems or something I've overlooked!

Firstly, the "height" of the groove would need to be adjustable, perhaps up to a couple of inches. If the jaws were made from a wide, threaded rod with a nut encircled by a couple of rubber grommets to provide the "groove?" Or even just a piece sliding along the jaw and held in position by a grub screw?

And, Cole Jaws being what they are, you'd also need some way to adjust for bowl diameters between the pre-drilled holes. What if the jaws were drilled at, say 5mm off-centre so they'd provide a cam action?

Then you could reverse chuck by mounting the cole-jaws on the tailstock, bring it up to the job while still centred on the chuck, adjust the jaws so they all just touch and the the grooves sit at the right height, then tighten up the Cole Jaws "properly" before dismounting the original chuck and continuing on.

What've I missed?

Sounds doable

One of my complaints about Cole Jaws is that they're pretty much useless for oddly shaped bowls (eg. natural edged) or anything not perfectly round, yet these are the ones I usually need some way to reverse mount.

Partly the reason I made my own. I did not think that the Cole Jaws were that handy for me and therefore could not justify the cost.

But as you say Skew they can have eccentric additions for natural edge bowls. I started out with 50mm rubber sink plugs with a plywood insert to give them some body, round drawer knobs will work on some shapes.

I have the anchoring holes drilled on a bit of a radius this gives me more meat between the holes than if I drilled them at 90' to the axis.

The only thing I may change is the number of anchoring points to 8 from the current 4. I like rubber as a medium to hold the bowls, preferring rubber that is slighlty softer than the standard 50-55 duro or Shore number.

I have anticipated cutting far more grooves all the way along the extensions like a screw thread. Also adding different dias for the the extensions, especially on larger dia bowls that apply more side thrust to the jaws. As for eccentric hole centres, perhaps several of differing eccentricities to allow for the widest possible usage. The possibilities and variations are virtually limitless.

I think you pretty well covered it Skew nice one

looking at old forums on coles jaws i noticed several queries on them not being suitable to handle odd shaped bowls. well i set my jaws on an independent four jaw chuck and can use it on any shape and can rechuck it and get it reset perfectly
happy turning brian

Brianmary,
Yup that will do it alright. I have not got around to any of the 4 jaw set ups as you describe, try to keep mine round

As a ? hughie is that a nova chuck and if so are you using the 130 mm jaws as i know they have screw allocations for attaching jaw extentions .Oh by the way love the long posts.

You folk do know I guess that you can get the VM style red buttons seperately from the ally plates? (Course they aren't tall enough for your application Hughie).

I like 'em cos they have two convex and two concave faces, so that sometimes gives you wiggle room, and if you need more to accommodate a slightly out of round bowl then cardboard packing will do.

Beyond that, why not slots in the plates, recessed bolts through the buttons and very tight wingnuts?

As a ?

hughie is that a nova chuck and if so are you using the 130 mm jaws

Yes its SN2 the older type with the larger body diameter along with the 130mm jaws, these jaws I use alot, very handy items.

Ern, Yes I was aware of it, will be buying some for more 300mm longworth chuck. On the bigger one 600mm I have teknatool buttons, I figure having a set of each should get all if not most of my bases covered.