Thread: Made myself a cone thingy today.

Originally Posted by apricotripper

Can only relax when I can test the fit, but to do that I have to dock the end off. point of no return sort of thing.

Not necessarily, Jake. If you cut your spindle blanks to exact length, the centre divots will enable re-mounting without drama. Save the tenon cuts until last, and you should be able to flip the piece so that the spur centre has enough to bite into for turning the opposite end. Unless you need very small tenons; then you might need off-lathe "turning" with the 60-grit gouge.

Joe

Glad to hear that you finally got yourself a cone, Apricotripper

It must be a sheila thing, but when I first saw the pic, my immediate thought was "ring sizing gauge"

Ta. Sorry I wasn't very clear.

The problem sometimes is ......that both ends need tenons. These tenons are under the dimeter of the spur drive ( but I didnt think I could just flip it of course and size only at the tail ) and also their through tenons, whose ends will be seen......so I've got to dock both ends to length after turning to remove the spindle marks in the end grain.

And I was also worried that since the tenons are smaller than the head spur drive, the spurs wouldn't have enough grip on such a small diameter and rip itself out of the kerfs and spin...

I suppose I was just looking for confidence in being able to size them perfectly with calipers only. Keep the process fast without having to remove the spindle from the lathe and make an actual test fit. So that I can mark off everything to length on the lathe, size everything, and take straight to saw to dock off both ends with a stop and know the tenons will fit without test. Something to improve on in my sizing technique.

What do you think of those sizing jigs you can get that attach to parting tools ? ......I was thinking they maybe more accurate with one of them than sizing with normal calipers in one hand, and parting tool in other.

Originally Posted by tameriska

It must be a sheila thing, but when I first saw the pic, my immediate thought was "ring sizing gauge"

does look a bit like one of those eh.

Use a spanner of the correct size for tenons.

Ta . Have used them. But often I don't have the right sized spanner.

Have you ever tried those jigs you attach to your parting tool for sizing in ?

Yep. Can get pretty close with one but is acquired "feel" .

Made by Sorby I think.

Parting tool attachment.

Ta. I was thinking I could make my own.

Being searching the net and found this...(just copied it here)

Quick & easy home-made tenon turning gauge
Using the drill bit you plan to use to bore the holes for your tenons, drill a hole near one end of an 8" long by 2" wide piece of 3/8" to 1" thick (depending on your tenon size) scrap stock. Mark the centerline of your hole (across the narrow, 2" wide direction) before you start drilling.
Once the hole is drilled, use your table saw or bandsaw to saw your hole in half, leaving an open arc at the edge of your gauge. Then, simply check your turning progress by placing this open arc over your tenon.

I'm liking this for a direct check. A half circle of the actual mortise hole the tenon will fit. In my hand, so I can check for tight fit all along the tenon, without having to stop lathe and check or oversize the the length for docking off latter.