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Thread: conquering the skew
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21st April 2011, 08:13 PM #1
conquering the skew
hi all
I bought some turning tools on ebay a month or so ago
the roughing gouge is great (sorby hss)
the spindle gouge (aj addiss) fantastic
now i come to the skew (sorby hss) the most terifing weapon in my arsenol
i have developed a healthy respect for this beast, when you just about to finish a project (turning a chisel handle ) and apply to much pressure bang it takes a chunck out of the wood and i then yell at it and start over again
how long does it take to conquer this piece of steel
should you say a prayer everytime you use it or just practice,practice and more practice
greg
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21st April 2011 08:13 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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21st April 2011, 08:19 PM #2Retired
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practice,practice and more practice
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21st April 2011, 08:20 PM #3Retired
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PS. If you know someone that knows how to use it get them to show you.
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21st April 2011, 08:23 PM #4Novice
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Skew
All I can say is "gently, gently". Put the bevel on the work and "gently" turn the edge on. Move it "gently". Still get some bites. One of those "things" that takes time especially for me.
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21st April 2011, 10:17 PM #5Retro Phrenologist
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conquering the skew Ha!
It can't be done.
I reckon the pros. like , Vic Wood, Richard Raffan, Rolly Munro and all the others get together a couple of times a year to work out ways to convince us newbies that the skew is a good thing and it is just our own incompetence and complete lack of talent that keeps us down. It's a guild that they have to keep us out of the system - they probably have secret handshakes and wear especially coloured and embroidered turning jackets with little emblems of crossed Sorby 1" oval skews machined in HSS pinned to the sleeves.
When you watch a Mike Darlow video and see him doing everything from roughing down an ironbark tree to turning fine finials in ebony using nothing but a 1 1/2 skew chisel one handed, it's all fake - digitally enhanced computer graphics and the like - not to mention witchcraft.
None of them ever actually use a skew - never, never, never.
Of course there are many others involved in this conspiracy. For example Tea Lady, Sawdust Maker, Ozkaban, Dai Sensai, Wheelinround, they will probably all tell you that they are reasonably competent with the skew - DON"T BELIEVE THEM! It is just not possible!
Did I mention witchcraft? oh sorry, I shouldn't mention that.
Of course, I could be wrong...
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21st April 2011, 10:26 PM #6
I've worked out its like capacitors in electronics, A strange device that either shouldn't or can't be used. I did hear once that your meant to sacrifice your best friend during a full moon in the dark forest at midnight to get a 10% increase in competency. If I had a friend I'd try it, Ah well. Maybe we can learn together..
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22nd April 2011, 12:33 AM #7Retired
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22nd April 2011, 12:35 AM #8
Hey Farmboy,
I used to be like you, couldn't go anywhere near a skew, without bits of timber being 'Chunked' or design features such as 'big spiral Ahhhhhhhs'being added, I read an article in a woodworking Magazine while sitting in hospital waiting for my wife to have some tests and scans last year, I went home and grabbed the skew by the throat, and told it i wasn't scared of it anymore, Mike Darlow was the author, I have one of his books now and I think that he explains things in a way that normal type blokes can understand ( I've been discribed as a fellow who is strong like Ox but dumb like Tractor), the basics (as I have been told by a production Turner) are A, B, C, Anchor, (on the Tool Rest) Bevel (Rub the Bevel) and Cut (rotate until the edge starts to Cut) I now do pens from Square to Finished with a skew, and start sanding at 320 grit, I used to use a gouge and start sanding at 100 grit. I'm not saying that I'm a fast learner, cause there has been lots and lots of practice, so just keep practicing, it'll be worth it. The most important thing is keep it Sharp, and keep the speed up.
Just my 2 cents worth.
HazzaBIt's Hard to Kick Goals, When the Ba^$%##ds Keep moving the Goal Posts.
Check out my Website www.harrybutlerdesigns.com.au
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22nd April 2011, 09:04 AM #9Skwair2rownd
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Couple of things Farmboy to help the learning learning:
Get Mike Darlow's video "Taming the Skew" and watch it at least twice. Then when you summon the courage, practice on some crapiata pine or other useless scrap. As you work say - out loud if need be - what you are to do. Don't laugh, this is a well founded method of problem solving and learning, You externalise the problem and this helps you to visualise what is going on, ( There is a term for this but it escapes me at the moment.)
After a couple of efforts, go back and watch the video.
I found that this helped me tremendously.
Also, it is better to have a skew with rounded corners. Much easier to handle.
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22nd April 2011, 09:19 AM #10
One of the highlights of the recent Blue Mountains Challenge day was for eight turners to simultaneously cut the same piece, on the same lathe, with skew chisels
John
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22nd April 2011, 09:45 AM #11
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22nd April 2011, 09:48 AM #12
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22nd April 2011, 11:07 AM #13anne-maria.
Tea Lady
(White with none)
Follow my little workshop/gallery on facebook. things of clay and wood.
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22nd April 2011, 11:17 AM #14GOLD MEMBER
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My addiction is bowls, so I only make spindles for tool handles.
The first time I put a skew near a piece of rotating wood it bent the skew about 25 degrees where it enters the handle.
About 2 years later I was making a tool handle with a bowl gouge and scraper and was curious about the skew. I straightened the skew and had a go. I got about 15 seconds of shaving before I hooked the toe.
Recently, because the skew does make such a lovely surface, (apart from the spirals, and chunks removed) I did some reading and practiced, I made a couple tool handles.
I have learned to keep the toe out of the wood, what causes the spirals, and the reason why we do not cut uphill. The last handle made from a red oak stick split out of firewood did not have a spiral and only a bit of tear out.
After knocking off the high spots with my roughing gouge (made from a scrap 30 inch lawnmower blade) I carefully used the skew making an interrupted cut, watching the phantom outer limit and keeping the toe above that.
It worked quickly and made a nice finish. I even managed to round down the back of the handle and round down and make the thinner part for the ferrule with just the skew.
So the secret is practice, practice, practice, with reading of books or watching videos between.
I find I must keep a tighter grip on the skew than with the bowl gouge or scraper. I have had to consciously relax the death grip on the skew.
Limit the sessions to an hour or less to start. If you get tired, cramping, or distracted, things do not go well.
I have gone a long time without a catch making bowls. Then the other day I cut several bowl blanks with a chain saw, roughed two on the Woodfast, cut spigots on them and put the smaller one on the Hegner using #3 jaws on a Oneway chuck. In rapid succession I had the bowl come out of the chuck three times.
When I hollow a bowl I use the tailstock and leave a post up the middle of the bowl so I can dig hard with my hollowing tools ( 1/2 in. high X 3/8 in wide bar, and 5/8 in square bar on big long handles).
When I turned it around to cut the spigot for the chuck, I offset the bowl to cut off a flat spot. When I mounted it on the chuck the center post in the bowl was going around like a cam. When the big tool came down from the rim and hit that, bang out of the chuck. After the third time I stopped and thought, realized what was happening, and cut the post down carefully from the top.
I was not hurt, and neither was the bowl. I suspect I was more tired than I realized.So much timber, so little time.
Paul
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22nd April 2011, 04:04 PM #15
Thankyou very,very much
i have had a feel better day reading about the skew and your exploits in conquering the skew
i am going to hunt the darlow dvd down and see how i go
greg
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