Thread: a couple of cedar bowls

Hey Mick, they look good mate. I like them.

Well done! Those natural edge bowls are good in summer!

Mick59,

I really like the oval one with the bark on. The cedar I get around here does not split and check as much as other local timber.

For sanding bottoms I have several round disks made of scrap plywood just under size of 6 inch sanding disks. The backs are made to grip in a chuck but they can be made to go on a face plate. I sand the face smooth and finish with tung oil to have a slick surface. I use peel and stick sanding disks.

I mount the disk on the lathe and run at 700 rpm. The sanding disk over the edge lets me slide the bottom of the bowl at an angle over the edge to make a concave bottom. I slide across, turn 1/4 turn, slide across, repeat, repeat, until it looks good.

I first flattened the bottom on a piece of sandpaper stuck on a piece of plywood, and later found a piece of granite in a dumpster that was cut out to inset a sink, that is nice and heavy and flat.

I use lots of timber picked up off the side of the road or given to me in various states of dry.

If just cut, I rough turn, leaving wall thickness of the bowl about 10 - 15 % of the diameter. I then either soak the bowl for about two weeks in a half and half solution of hand dish washing liquid and water, or boil overnight in a crock pot, let drain dry, wrap in 5 - 7 layers of newspaper and let sit in the shed about 6 months.

I then turn it round as it has dried quite oval and let it sit on a shelf for a couple of weeks or longer. Then back on the lathe to see if it is still moving. If it is 1/8 inch or less out of round, I'll finish it and let it sit around the shop for a couple more weeks before I sell it.

If it is still moving, I set it aside or stick it in the microwave and give it 15 seconds, feel it for temperature, 15 more seconds, feel, repeat until it feels warm to the touch. Let it sit with door shut until you think of it, then do it again. If you get in a hurry it will split.

Do a search "turning green wood". Lots of people have ideas on how to speed the process.

With all the different techniques, some split and some don't. Leaving a log in the round is almost a guarantee that it will split. After cutting a tree into blocks and waiting a day, most will start a crack that can be used as a guide to either split with a wedge or chain saw through the pith of the log. Painting the ends with wax, junk paint, or the coating made for the purpose will help control splitting.

In this climate one year of drying time per inch of timber thickness is normal. (Which is why we rough out bowls from green / wet wood.)

Paul,

thanks for the excellent detailed reply. Some great ideas for me in re-flattening the bottom of warped bowls. In general, I plan to leave them warped but need to have them sit properly so I want to concave the inner part of the bottom but flatten the outer rim.

cheers

Mick

Originally Posted by chuck1

Well done! Those natural edge bowls are good in summer!

thanks. However, I do not ge the reference to summer

cheers

Mick

The wings usually generate wind when I have turned them having extra breeze!

Hi mick,
Good to see you have posted some of your work!
I like the natural edge bowl, sides are very equal
looks very good, well done