Thread: Couple of tips

Originally Posted by Hickory

I have always preached against using anything except Flatheat slotted steel wood screws. But given your rationale I might have to side with you. (to a cretain extent) Reason for my Olde School insistance is that a lot of folks will use too weak of a screw for faceplates. I insist on a #10 or #12 full shank screw. the screw needs the shank to keep from shearing off in a catch and the screw needs to fill the hole also to keep from shearing off.

Drywall screws are a definate NO NO, They are much too brittle and weak to hold in a stressful situation such as a catch or dropping on the floor or shoving your face into the bowl. They shear from simply vibration of chattering cutters.

As you mentioned, the Robertson screws are a buit more beefy due to the torque applied by the power driver, but I still prefer the Correctly drilled & sized pilot followed by a hand torqued steel wood screw.

BTW not all Robertsons are beefy and you know they were invented by a (gasp!) Canadian long before the Phillips?

Far too often folks use a powered drill/driver and crank the screw in untill the driver can turn no more. This is often at the shear point of the screw, or it has already stripped out the wood or they by-pass the pilot hole because the drive will do it.... etc. This is a weak attachment and a poor attempt at short cutting which may lead to failure and accident.

Bl--dy (as we say over here) good advice Mr Hickory!!