Thread: Couple of tips

Thanks for the tips.
I'll certainly do the second one today !

Thanks Ern.
for the second one. also

These screws are great, have been using them on my faceplates for redgum and yellowbox for the last 6 yrs and think I have only snapped two off in all that time

Cheers DJ

The square holed screw heads are almost the same as screws used in orthopedic surgery. They have a very positive grip on the driver and little chance of the bit coming out of the screw as it is spinning- hence limiting the risk of damage to the surrounding structures. This is important in our bones but not quite as important on my metal faceplate.
Is there much advantage really compared to the cheap phillips headed screws I currently use?

G'day Terry B

Three advantages that I know of are

1 Stronger material is used in maunfacter of screws which means less chance of snapping

2 These screws have a special coating on them which makes them easier to screw in and out

3 Square drive dosen't slip and strip screw head like a phillips does

Cheers DJ

Ern, do these have a coating that looks like brass?... sort of a golden color?

Square drive (aka Robertson) screws can be gotten with almost any thread desired. If you have a chance (whether phillips or robertson), see if you can find 'particleboard screws". They have a thicker shank along with a slightly steeper angle on the threads, along with deeper threads. I've used them in hardwoods, softwoods and composites with very good results, I've also used them fastening things to a faceplate with not problems. I've had very few occurrances of twisting them off or twisting out the slots.

I dont' know about where you live, but I can get them at a number of the local home supply stores. Give them a try, I think You'll like them

There's a mailorder company here (McFeeleys) that carry them in just about any style or length you might ever want.

Paul

OGYT, not sure .. check out the website. They come in a range of finishes.

Ern,

Thanks for jogging my memory. I have used them before but only in North America. Have not seen to many around in Oz. But they are slowly coming available. Plus some of the tool store are selling the drivers. Where they seem to be located is on imported elect cabinets etc.

I agree much better bite by the driver and you don't shear off the part of the driver as it occurs with Philip's head drivers.

OGYT. As far as I remember the gold finish is a cad plated finish, although there is a gold coloured zinc plated finish --- lesser quality but much cheaper, Used it alot on the lab equip in a previous job.
hughie

I'll second Pauls' suggestion of using particleboard screws, especially for the softer woods. I've found that they seem to hold better for the same length than normal screws, regardless of the head type. In faceplate turning that can be an advantage.

Haven't seen 'em around here with square-drive heads, but I can't say I've really looked for 'em.

Yet...

These guys are normally at the timber show every time that I have been there

Cheers DJ

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

Haven't seen 'em around here with square-drive heads, but I can't say I've really looked for 'em.

Yet...

G'day Skewch

Have a look at this website: http://www.sachys-robertson.com.au

They offer a "Woodturner's Pack" as well as the "Starter's Pack" mentioned above. Definitely superior to the dreaded Phillips Head/Pozi-drive bit-manglers.

Originally Posted by rsser

1. If you do a deal of fixing of faceplates or faceplate rings to your bowl blanks, try the square drive flat (aka countersunk) screws available by mail order from

I have not done any face plate ring work yet, but I imagine there is a high demand placed on screws, when you have a humungous burl on! In the building game, I used to use a lot of "batten screws" which were an allen key drive, and used to only come 75mm long. They are now making them in 25mm, as well as 100mm, but if 25mm isn't too long they might suit? They are about 4-5mm thick in the shank with a very aggressive thread (after all they are designed to hold roof battens down in all weathers!)They also come in stainless, gal etc, and are very cheap now also.
They are countersunk, and may be suitable if the screw heads aren't too big for the countersunk holes in the ring.

I have always preached against using anything except Flatheat slotted steel wood screws. But given your rationale I might have to side with you. (to a cretain extent) Reason for my Olde School insistance is that a lot of folks will use too weak of a screw for faceplates. I insist on a #10 or #12 full shank screw. the screw needs the shank to keep from shearing off in a catch and the screw needs to fill the hole also to keep from shearing off.

Drywall screws are a definate NO NO, They are much too brittle and weak to hold in a stressful situation such as a catch or dropping on the floor or shoving your face into the bowl. They shear from simply vibration of chattering cutters.

As you mentioned, the Robertson screws are a buit more beefy due to the torque applied by the power driver, but I still prefer the Correctly drilled & sized pilot followed by a hand torqued steel wood screw.

BTW not all Robertsons are beefy and you know they were invented by a (gasp!) Canadian long before the Phillips?

Far too often folks use a powered drill/driver and crank the screw in untill the driver can turn no more. This is often at the shear point of the screw, or it has already stripped out the wood or they by-pass the pilot hole because the drive will do it.... etc. This is a weak attachment and a poor attempt at short cutting which may lead to failure and accident.