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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Eastern Suburbs Melbourne
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    Default Dealing with knots

    I've had the odd problem with knots when doing faceplate work like plates and bowls. They either chip out or come loose altogether. If the workpiece is otherwise fine, what is the best way of dealing with them? Can you glue sawdust into the gap or is there a better solution?

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    Mornington, Vic
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    Default

    As you may have already found out, knots that seem sound are not after a bowl or plate has been gouged. It is a tricky thing to take the turning to a point where the knot is still secure and you have almost finished gouging. I have used "black jack" to fill around a knot just before final passes. My rule of thumb is, if the knot is loose before you start, take it out before it takes you out.

    Dills.

  4. #3
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    Apr 2005
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    Nerang Queensland
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    Default

    I use thin CA to stabilize the knot. Then any the gaps can be filled with a filler and the choices are endless - thick CA for clear, or coloured finish using thin CA with powders such as sawdust/charcoal/brass/copper/aluminium/malachite/torquoise etc etc
    Neil
    ____________________________________________
    Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new

  5. #4
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    Nov 2004
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dills58 View Post
    As you may have already found out, knots that seem sound are not after a bowl or plate has been gouged.

    Dills.
    You're correct, I'd never use timber with a loose knot in it. The knot seems sound and then once you're committed to it because you've spent some time turning, you find out it isn't . Have tried sawdust filler in the past but that tends to chip out a bit as well and you end up refilling the gap, sometimes better to just throw the piece out and cut your losses.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Oakleigh East, Sunny Vic
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dai sensei View Post
    I use thin CA to stabilize the knot. Then any the gaps can be filled with a filler and the choices are endless - thick CA for clear, or coloured finish using thin CA with powders such as sawdust/charcoal/brass/copper/aluminium/malachite/torquoise etc etc
    I agree with Dai Sensai
    I like to collect sawdust, and stuff it into the crack, then use thin ca over the top of that. It soaks in and sets hard.
    It may need a touch up with CA when you get down to your finished dimensions. Easily sanded off.
    I also use CA on holey burls or if I want to keep a bark inclusion.
    I think that sometimes keeping the knot adds a lot of character and interest.
    Cheers,
    Steck

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    BELL POST HILL, 3215
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    2,332

    Default The Knots.

    Hi Tiger,
    Like Steck, I collect the dust from my sanding, & store it in a container, & when I want some to use I get the "Keeper of the House's " very fine Tea Strainer & put it into my Light Plastic " Woofer ".
    I use a " 750g Saxa Salt Holder ". It has a Screw type lid, & soft sides, which allows you to control the amount of dust to come out.

    I use Loctite 401 Super Glue. I run it into the Crack, Then " Woof " some Dust into it & it is dry in an instant.
    Very good on your cut Fingers.
    Do not use this on really soft Woods, as the Glue & Dust are harder than the Wood.

    To Check the Age of the Loctite, look at the base Nos. Could be D09. That would indicate that the Glue was made in April 2009. That would still be OK today.
    Regards,
    issatree.

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  8. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Oakleigh East, Sunny Vic
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by issatree View Post
    Hi Tiger,

    I use a " 750g Saxa Salt Holder ".
    Now thats a good idea! I have just been using plastic bags to store my sawdust.
    Thanks.
    Cheers,
    Steck

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Tallahassee FL USA
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    82
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    4,650

    Default

    For voids in general, I usually use a mortar of epoxy and filler material. Here's one using key-cutting shavings as the filler: https://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/bal...ss-vase-86510/

    More often, I use ground coffee. I over-fill the void proud of the final surface, then turn and sand flush. The final surface intersects some of the filler, to produce a terrazzo-like appearance at small scale. Here's a close-up: https://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/cedar-bowl-77115/ (last picture).

    Cheers,
    Joe
    Of course truth is stranger than fiction.
    Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    ...
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    7,955

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by issatree View Post
    I use a " 750g Saxa Salt Holder ". It has a Screw type lid, & soft sides, which allows you to control the amount of dust to come out.


    issatree.
    Based on your idea I saved about 25 empty spice containers my wife was going to throw out and as I use different kinds of wood I save some sawdust for later use.

    Peter.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Otautahi , Te Wa'hi Pounamu ( The Mainland) , NZ
    Age
    69
    Posts
    2,114

    Default

    I use tea leaves as a filler to bulk out the CA thin glue .
    For small cracks , the fine dust from teabags , for bigger ones , loose tea leaves .
    Tea , being multi coloured as it were , looks more natural than a solid colour filler .
    I just rub or pack the leaves in , and then drip the glue onto it , and tamp it down into place , with a teaspoon
    Once , for a series of large bark inclusions that had opened in the drying and needed a larger aggregate , I used crushed bark .

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