Thread: Deep Hollowing system sense check - Vermec?

You can't go past the Vermec UHS as far as I am concerned.
As for the lathe; the stand is very light weight and the variable speed is mechanical not electronic. My advise would be to put off the purchase of all the above and save until you can afford a electronic variable speed. I think you will be much better off in the long run.

Hi Brendan,
Understood and certainly appreciate you chiming in! Are there any models you could recommend that might suffice for an entry level lathe with EVS under $2k?

Edit: Or low $2ks? i.e. something more like this: CGR-350EVS Wood Lathe - Major Woodworking Equipment

EVS adds a lot to the overall price of a lathe but is well worth it. I am not really across all the cheaper version of EVS lathes that are out there but you will get what you pay for. I would suggest 3.5K should be your budget but understand that might not be realistic. Another option is to find an old Woodfast or Tough lathe and convert it. You could get a very good lathe doing it this way and I would much prefer this alternative than to buy one of the cheaper EVS machines on the market.

You might need to think about a big centre steady.

Bob

And to throw a bit more confusion at you Sebastiaan, get onto the net and have a look at Simon Hope, Monster, Gizmo and Trent Bosch hollowing systems. I was sorta set on getting what you are till I tried one and then saw the Simon Hope unit demonstrated at the Prossie Turnout last year by MKPenturner. Wow no comparison. I decided to build my own using ideas from them all, but using Trent Bosch Carbide tipped tools. Just my €0.20 worth.
Rgds,
Crocy.

If you go the conversion approach as suggested by Brendan, you should be able to do it with all quality components for under $600 if you DIY. You can do it for considerably less if you go with the cheaper eBay variable speed drives and watch for a bargain used motor (or buy your lathe with a 3 phase motor already installed). You should also be able to pickup an old Woodfast in good shape for under $1000. That's basically the setup I have and am very happy with it - better than the newer imports that cost much more.

I'm lucky enough to have both the Vermec and Vicmarc deep hollowing systems. The Vermec is a good system. Note that it is recommended to cut in reverse which allows a better view into the vessel - make sure you have a locking collar on your chuck or it will spin off. My only critisism of the Vermec is the nylon bush which holds the cutting bar. It has a tendency to bind which can be annoying - I ended up sanding back mine to give the bar more freedom. The Vicmarc is a much more cumbersome unit to look at though is fairly easy to set up. I love using it. I do a lot of resin work - resin can be very touchy and is shatter prone. For me, the smooth action of the VM is preferred.

Recently I had a few gnarly mallee burls to hollow out. My HSS chisels were only lasting seconds before loosing their edge. So I set up the Vicmarc with carbide cutter and was genuinely (pleasantly) shocked how easily and smoothly it ripped into the timber. I also used the lazer guide up to a finishing cut depth.

If you are keen on the Vermec PM me; see if we can work out a deal as I rarely use mine.

Cheers
Phil

Hi All,
Great feedback. Taking it all on board.

Oddy, whilst I like the conversion idea, I haven't got the the know how or time to do it, and really want to get setup and turning. I've doubled my lathe budget and am looking at something along the lines of the Hare & Forbes WL-46 which has EVS and significantly more mass/stability. If money was no object I'd get the Vicmarc VL200 EVS! But for now I'll have to just dream about that.

Phily, will definitely PM you with regard to the Vermec.

Hi guys, the vermec hollower is a great tool , I use mine
upsidedown on the opposite wall , I don, t have reverse
on my lathe, so I do it that way , just be careful , it is
very easy to go too thin on the wall thickness ......
Don, t ask how I know this..........

When you're "using it upside down" don't you find the blood rushes to your head ? Phil

Originally Posted by Sebastiaan76

I've doubled my lathe budget and am looking at something along the lines of the Hare & Forbes WL-46 which has EVS and significantly more mass/stability. If money was no object I'd get the Vicmarc VL200 EVS! But for now I'll have to just dream about that.

That's the one I have and it hasn't given me any trouble in the quite a few years I have had it.The fit of many parts are not the best on the market, but for the dollars is a pretty good machine. A friend also has one which he uses all day everyday and has had very few problems with it.
The headstock does not swivel but only slides along the bed.

Originally Posted by brendan stemp

Another option is to find an old Woodfast or Tough lathe and convert it. You could get a very good lathe doing it this way and I would much prefer this alternative than to buy one of the cheaper EVS machines on the market.

Another good option for a secondhand lathe is a Durden.

eg. https://www.machines4u.com.au/view/a...-LATHE/259398/

If you were in WA, the price is about right for you, but that one is 3 phase. It was also made with a 240v motor.

With the right 3 phase motor you are half way towards converting it to EVS. There are threads on these forums on how to do that.

Put a wanted add for any of these three makes of lathes on our Buy & Sell forum and see what comes up.

There are currently some Woodfasts for sale on Gumtree here in SA. There may also be some on offer where you are.

For example:

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/eden...the/1138810951

and

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/morp...the/1107992578


Good hunting!





Stay sharp!

Neil

Well a lot of advice here.
Ok I started out with a Hare & Forbes MC 1100 with mechanical variable speed which pretty much what your looking at. It did me well over several years and for a beginner its a well priced lathe even its a bit rough around the edges.
Over that time I severely modified mine, the stand as stated is too flimsy and not matter what I did it would still vibrate. So I built a heavy wooden one. Later I fitted a 3 phase motor with electronic variable speed and locked the head down in one position. Locked the head down because it would work loose at some very hairy times.

This sorted out all the pet peeves for me on this lathe and I found I could swing a 15kg blank with no problems at all. But all this work/mods isnt for everyone, my engineering background allowed me to do this for a very small amount of what it should have cost.

I gave it away to a good friend a few years ago and he hasnt had any problems with it and have since built my own lathe to suit what I do.

Ok I said all that to say this. No matter what your lathe may cost you. all the accessories, tools and goodies etc will dwarf the cost of it over time. What or which lathe to buy first is really a matter of budget and with that I would look at second hand and if your prepared to travel you will get a good lathe with perhaps a lot of accessories this not uncommon. The trick is not to be in a hurry, get your budget ready and do a fair bit of research so your familiar with the various brands/models and tools so you will know a good one when you see it.

good luck

+1, for everything that Hughie has said above.

I will also add, deep hollowing will be easier with a one of the dedicated hollowing rigs, but not essential.

If you are only doing a straight plunge cut, Forster bits with extension bars will get most of the job done and then tidy up the cut with a bowl gouge that has a Celtic grind with the gouge rolled back and the flutes facing the cut. This is a scraping cut. A dedicated scraper will do a similar cleanup.

Don't get too fussed about the surface finish below where fingers can reach.

The only specialised tool that I would recommend to do the above is a deep hollowing tool rest, like the Woodcut's Irons Toolgate or make you own.

Woodcut Tools Ltd > HOLLOWING TOOL REST

Undercuts may require a specialised tool, depending on how much undercut you are after. A gentle undercut can still be done with a gouge (as described above), but wider undercuts through a narrow neck requires some sort of goose neck tool.

I have only ever hollowed freehand. It can be done.

If money is tight, spend what you have on a lathe and add nice to have gear like a hollowing rig later on.


Stay sharp!

Neil