Thread: Diamond Grinding Wheel

K, edge pics after honing the flute with a #1000 slipstone.

Hover mouse over thumbnail to see which is which.

Interesting observations, Ern.

Before you put the bevel over the #1000 stone I would have agreed that the Tormek had produced the finer grind and the better edge, but after the #1000 stone it looks like the diamond side has come up better, but maybe I'm just seeing an artifact of the image capture process and not the actual surface/edge.

I'm not familiar with the Tormek, but I understand that the minimum 'grit' is about #250. If that is the case, then theoretically the T should produce a much finer grind than the #120 of the diamond wheel.

As always, the ultimate test will be any difference in the performance on wood, but it's very informative to see what is happening on the edge at the micro level in working out why things work the way they do.

BTW, got this QX5 from the family for Xmas... . Goes up to x200. Will take an image at that resolution of the burr created by the diamond wheel. Hoping that will give a better understanding of what is happening at that level of detail.

Attachment 156955

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Ah, you lucky sod. Should be more reliable than the USB thingy. Brent Beach uses a QX3 for his plane blade edge inspections.

The Tormek coarse grading is said to be around #220, with 26 thou particle sizes. I don't have info on spacing. The bond is quite hard.

Yes, the edge difference may just be an artefact of the process. The 2nd pic above, the Tormek edge, was taken closer to the piece than the 1st so obviously the jagged edge will appear larger. I haven't done a terrific job of controlling all the variables have I so I shouldn't blame the tool - but it sure as h*ll is a frustrating tool to use

The #1000 honing was not of the bevel btw but the flute, just to take the burr off.

Hi
Just joined this forum. Interest aroused due to discussion re Diamond Wheel from Woodcraft. Have been using for about 3 months. Experience is very positive. I use for touch up only on all my Woodturning tools. Reshaping takes too long. System is well balanced. Tools do not heat up. Finish superb. Edge sharpness is excellent. I use an old AlOx - K grinding wheel to condition the wheel from time to time (to remove swarf). Have not dressed wheel ie; not needed. Expect wheel will need some reshaping after a year of use.

I love this wheel because - less metal removed from my tools per sharpening and will get the equivalent of multiples of AlOx wheel before needing replacement, more consistent sharpening ie; no change in wheel size diameter, tools do not overheat, etc, etc. Even though the cost is high the overall cost all things considered is lower + the added benefit of more consistent and easier sharpening.

Also, don't know if this true but does Woodcraft offer a scrap value for the Al hub upon replacement.

One of the significant advantages I am finding with the diamond wheel is its ability to sharpen carbide tips. I turn a lot of gumnuts in resin and the gumnuts would have be one of the most abrasive, wood like materials I have ever turned. My life changed when I discovered TCTs and changed even more when I realised the diamond wheel could sharpen them.

However, I noticed the surface of the diamond wheel was becoming irregular and finally came to the realisation that the sharpening of the TCT was the cause of it. So I have discovered that the problem of dressing these wheels is now solved; I simply use a straight section of TC as a dressing tool. Back to a flat surface. Happier still with the diamond wheel.

Brendan
If you need to dress the wheel with a straight section of TC then how long do you think the wheel will last, The diamond matrix as you know is only about 1/4"(6mm) thick.

So, am I to understand that all those circular carbide tips of which I have recently purchased a few and which are very expensive ($20-25 US) can be resharpened. I started using the circular tips for hollowing of vessels. The manufacturers and others suggest that when they wear out you just throw them away.

There are various jigs that can be used that allow the circular tip to spin and could be used against the diamond wheel as it spins for sharpening. Even if the diamond wheel wears out faster than normal it still is a no-brainer given the cost of the these carbide tips.

Am I making any sense?

Al

Originally Posted by bigal11

Brendan
If you need to dress the wheel with a straight section of TC then how long do you think the wheel will last, The diamond matrix as you know is only about 1/4"(6mm) thick.

Al

I'm not sure how long it will last but I haven't noticed any significant wear. But as I said in the very first post, these wheels are new to woodturners and it seems a few questions are yet to be answered. The benefit of this thread is to get some feedback from a variety of users so that a better understanding of the pros and cons can be gathered.

Originally Posted by bigal11

So, am I to understand that all those circular carbide tips of which I have recently purchased a few and which are very expensive ($20-25 US) can be resharpened. I started using the circular tips for hollowing of vessels. The manufacturers and others suggest that when they wear out you just throw them away.

There are various jigs that can be used that allow the circular tip to spin and could be used against the diamond wheel as it spins for sharpening. Even if the diamond wheel wears out faster than normal it still is a no-brainer given the cost of the these carbide tips.

Am I making any sense?

Al

Yep, making sense. And yep, they can be sharpened on these wheels. I have been doing it for a number of months. I use the jig/holder that comes with the Rolly Munroe deep hollowing tool to sharpen the round TCTs. It is simply a round section of steel, approx 3" long 6mm in diam and has a thread tapped into the end. A small screw is used to attach the TCT to the holder and I put this in a cordless drill and hold it at the appropriate angle while bringing into contact with the wheel. You could get perhaps 4 times the life out of the TCTs.

Originally Posted by brendan stemp

I simply use a straight section of TC as a dressing tool. Back to a flat surface.

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Interesting tip.

One comment I'd make though about the EWT Finisher is that the TCT disc bevel looks to me to have been polished, certainly compared with the Rougher tips that I have. And this accounts for the excellent finish you can get with the tool.