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Thread: Diamond Grinding Wheel
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17th February 2010, 02:05 PM #16
No dressing or cleaning stuff supplied. Just a wheel inside a cardboard box. But it isn't like the typical diamond sharpeners because the diamond is embedded in a resin. Very fine pores/texture. I'm still putting it through its paces; it did an excellent job on a 25mm chisel. Have done lots of grinding on it and its still flat. It still gets the thumbs up but I reserve ultimate judgement 'til later on.
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17th February 2010 02:05 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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17th February 2010, 03:17 PM #17Banned
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So how do you balance-dress the wheel when you first mount it on the grinder ?
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17th February 2010, 04:14 PM #18
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17th February 2010, 04:25 PM #19Banned
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I did . You did not address the issue .
I am not asking you how you dressed that wheel , I am asking how the wheel is dressed .
Just because you did not have need do so , does not mean that there is never a need to do so .
So I ask you again ,
So how do you balance-dress the wheel when you first mount it on the grinder ?
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17th February 2010, 09:59 PM #20
Manuka,
Shouldn't you ask the manufacturer or agent about balancing? Having a go at Brendan is the wrong way to find out. It comes over that way to me.
Cheers
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17th February 2010, 10:04 PM #21
I might jump in here, if that's OK with Brendan...
Other abrasive wheels, which are made entirely (other than metal arbor) from abrasive grit and bonding material are first pressed into a mould, then fired in a kiln, and, as a result, are prone to some some variation/distortion.
Whereas nearly all the mass of a diamond wheel is a precisely machined metal disk onto which is bonded a thin layer of diamond matrix that comprises no more than about 5 or 6% of the overall wheel dimensions. The only material that can vary in this structure is the thin layer of bonding material holding the diamond particles. Any variation is likely to be negligible on a quality diamond wheel.
If the arbor is a tight fit and the shaft is running true, then it should run true straight out of the box. If it doesn't, send it back!
If a diamond wheel requires 'dressing' as a result of uneven wear then the only thing that will do that is diamond in a stronger bond. This will tear the diamonds out of the softer bond. EDIT: Just remembered that there is another (cheaper) method.... see subsequent post
Hope that is more helpful than confusing....
.....Last edited by NeilS; 17th February 2010 at 10:33 PM. Reason: EDIT: Remembered that there is another method.
Stay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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17th February 2010, 10:08 PM #22
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17th February 2010, 10:08 PM #23Banned
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17th February 2010, 10:48 PM #24
Just remembered that there is another (cheaper) method....
I dress my metal bonded diamond blades by slicing up old silicon carbide grinding wheels....
The diamond cuts the silicon carbide, but the silicon carbide wears the metal matrix away: allowing the surface diamonds to drop out exposing fresh ones. Can't see why this wouldn't also work with a resin bond.
.....Stay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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17th February 2010, 10:54 PM #25Banned
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18th February 2010, 07:27 AM #26
Thanks Neil, I've learnt something about grinding wheels.
I'm interested to see how it wears and so far it's still flat after 1 1/2 days of regular use (I sharpen a lot). Interesting point: I compared the finish off the diamond wheel (120 grit) with that off a Al Oxide wheel ( Also 120 grit) and diamond wheel is significantly better. Another advantage of the wheel is that the diameter keeps constant without the wear factor so the radius on the grind will be the same over time.
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18th February 2010, 07:53 AM #27Skwair2rownd
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To you Brendan. Sounds good.
And to Neil. I wonder if that is the way to clean a Jewel Tool set-up?
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18th February 2010, 10:00 AM #28
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18th February 2010, 11:07 AM #29Hewer of wood
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Just as a BTW in the US you can now get diamond coated power sanding discs. About USD18 each!
Cheers, Ern
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18th February 2010, 12:13 PM #30
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