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Thread: drying bowls
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23rd November 2013, 11:58 PM #1Senior Member
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drying bowls
So was talking to someone about drying bowl and they said they just paint timber sealer on the outside of the bowl.
Has anyone done this and it is good to do?
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23rd November 2013 11:58 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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24th November 2013, 08:32 AM #2
I use PVA for small bowls, Wax (old candles) for larger bowls and othe cut ends.
Anything like this will stop the water transpiring throught the cut grain ends. Reducing the moisture loss to an even rate, hopefully preventing cracking caused by unequal watter levels in the timber.
And by water I'm talking about the Bound water in the cells, not the Free water in the wood.Dragonfly
No-one suspects the dragonfly!
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24th November 2013, 08:45 AM #3
Are we talking about drying bowl blanks or a completed bowl which has been turned from green wood?
It's only a mistake if you don't learn from it.
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24th November 2013, 08:51 AM #4
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24th November 2013, 10:50 AM #5GOLD MEMBER
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Mat Au,
Do a search in this forum and Google for, turning wet timber, rough turning bowls, soaking bowls in dish washing liquid, boiling bowls, microwave drying bowls, drying bowls.
Draw your own conclusions. I have used all of the above, some crack and some don't.So much timber, so little time.
Paul
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24th November 2013, 04:49 PM #6Hewer of wood
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Yeah, wot Paul said. There are a range of methods with both blanks and rough-turned bowls.
I rough-turn and use either paraffin wax melted in an old 'lekky frypan or if larger use end-grain sealer (sealing the end-grain outside and inside; the rest you can leave). You can also drop a bunch in a box and rotate them (Raffan's method) or whack one into a heavy paper bag or plastic bag (in this case take off all sapwood and if it's softwood bluestain is likely).
The bottom line is to watch them for cracks over the first few weeks after sealing. Some timber species are ornery; some timbers cut in summer will misbehave where they won't if cut in winter; some blank or bowl orientations in relation to position in the log cause headaches.
Note: post editedCheers, Ern
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24th November 2013, 08:22 PM #7Senior Member
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thanks all. i currently do wrap in paper with shavings but it takes up alot of room and also microwaving and that work quite well
but i might try the sealing the outside with timber sealer.
also want to try paraffin wax but not sure where i can buy it in a decent amount?
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25th November 2013, 05:10 AM #8
Matt,
here in the UK we have things called Car Boot Sales - not heard any of you guys mention them, so not sure how they translate. People selling stuff gather in a field set up a table at the rear of their cars and buyers walk about looking at what's on offer.
Anyway, I buy lots of part used church and ornamental candles, and melt them down in a meat roasting tray. You need to get the wax to around 140 degrees C so it sets translucent to make a proper seal.
Damn site cheaper than buying new wax and gives the workshop a nice smell after doing a batch.Dragonfly
No-one suspects the dragonfly!
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25th November 2013, 07:34 AM #9Hewer of wood
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Cheers, Ern
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25th November 2013, 08:06 AM #10GOLD MEMBER
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thanks for the handy link rsser
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25th November 2013, 01:51 PM #11Intermediate Member
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ive had reasonable success soaking in ethanol for 1 hour then wrapping the bottom with paper (read about this online as well).
Bowls are warping but not cracking-not sure if the walls are too thick/thin? or if warping is normal?
Most of the time it can be turned back into shape.
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25th November 2013, 02:17 PM #12Retired
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Wax? Bee, vegie or parafin?
I made a little post not so long ago about sealing logs.
There are a number of bowls drying and I did the Raffin thing.... into a box and let the spiders do their thing. My results were.... unsatisfactory.
The local markets had lumps of beeswax. Is this the best (?) ofr doing the sealing?
I assume I just have an old pot on the hotterater and dip the green bowl in? One? Twice? Thrice?
e
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27th November 2013, 01:31 PM #13Hewer of wood
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Evanism, beeswax is pretty soft and so as you move lumps around it tends to get knocked off, and it's also exxy compared with paraffin wax if you've got a deal of sealing to do.
And just to add, paraffin wax when heated is highly flammable so don't use a naked flame.Cheers, Ern
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27th November 2013, 02:49 PM #14
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27th November 2013, 03:10 PM #15Hewer of wood
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