Thread: Ebonizing wood try out show

Well done, Ad. The first treatment by itself could be a new process for not completely ebonizing - very handsome.

I've heard India Ink is also useful for ebonizing, maybe darker in one shot. Manual drafting supplies are getting scarce, of course; along with lots of other stuff. On a shopping expedition today, I remarked to a clerk, "It seems you can't buy a watch nowadays without photographic capabilities."

Joe

Well done Ad I have played with vinegar before more by accident really never used the steel wool in it will give it a go

Joe wonder if replacment ink for Inkjet's will work not just the black CMYK also

Nice work Ad, I must give that a try. Currently I am using the Ebonising fluid from here and it is only $5

http://www.newagemultimedia.com/woodwork/index.html

Originally Posted by joe greiner

Well done, Ad. The first treatment by itself could be a new process for not completely ebonizing - very handsome.

I've heard India Ink is also useful for ebonizing, maybe darker in one shot. Manual drafting supplies are getting scarce, of course; along with lots of other stuff. On a shopping expedition today, I remarked to a clerk, "It seems you can't buy a watch nowadays without photographic capabilities."

Joe

India ink, or leather dye which my lady penfriend Pam Reilly use for her mosaic hollow forms.
But vinegar with rusty nails works too. btw. nice talk to the clerk.
Was just a play around Joe.
Have a nice weekend. Ad

Ad ,

I like the tea dye one best .
It reminds me of a few years ago when I refurbished 30 Taiaha (Maori long swords) for the local Army KapaHaka group that I was in .
This involved a bit of reshaping , due to the fact that they looked like rowing oars rather than fighting weapons.
Being as how they were essentially 'stage props' , made of pinus , rather than a native hardwood , they had been done a dark brown with stained polyurethane gloss .
After reshaping , and sanding back to the bare wood , I soaked them , 3 at a time , in a dyebath made from a length of plastic spouting , capped at both ends ( weighed down a a couple of rocks ).
The dye was a natural fiber one , favored by spinners and weavers.
I bought two different shades , and mixed a third , from a bit of each , thus having 3 batches of brown dye shades .
After a 24 hour soaking , of each lot of 3 , I left one to dry as is , wiped the second down to remove the excess , and rinsed the third down in the shower .
That gave me 9 different shades of dark hardwood colours , and after allowing a good coat of olive oil to soak in , they came up looking like the real mccoy .
I have used this method once or twice since , mainly for matching finishing timber in renovations . Not for turned items tho , yet .

I would suggest trying this method with other colours too . My experience is that the soaking gives a far better depth and cover than a wipe on stain .

Pine is not the best for staining (at least Radiata Pine).

English Ash is a good one to play with: scorch with blow torch, wire brush loose ash off and finish with shellac. You get a near-black colour with exaggerated grain.

You also get cracks ... but it's rustic right?

The vinegar and steel wool trick can work well but once applied it really benefits from some exposure to the sun.
I only found this out after I tossed the test piece out the window in disgust! a couple of hours in the sun it was pitch black. I was using rosewood at the time.

Originally Posted by Slow6

The vinegar and steel wool trick can work well but once applied it really benefits from some exposure to the sun.
I only found this out after I tossed the test piece out the window in disgust! a couple of hours in the sun it was pitch black. I was using rosewood at the time.

A couple of hours anywhere seem too let it develope or something. Wipe it on quite thick. Wipe it off later.

Originally Posted by Manuka Jock

Ad ,

I like the tea dye one best .
It reminds me of a few years ago when I refurbished 30 Taiaha (Maori long swords) for the local Army KapaHaka group that I was in .
This involved a bit of reshaping , due to the fact that they looked like rowing oars rather than fighting weapons.
Being as how they were essentially 'stage props' , made of pinus , rather than a native hardwood , they had been done a dark brown with stained polyurethane gloss .
After reshaping , and sanding back to the bare wood , I soaked them , 3 at a time , in a dyebath made from a length of plastic spouting , capped at both ends ( weighed down a a couple of rocks ).
The dye was a natural fiber one , favored by spinners and weavers.
I bought two different shades , and mixed a third , from a bit of each , thus having 3 batches of brown dye shades .
After a 24 hour soaking , of each lot of 3 , I left one to dry as is , wiped the second down to remove the excess , and rinsed the third down in the shower .
That gave me 9 different shades of dark hardwood colours , and after allowing a good coat of olive oil to soak in , they came up looking like the real mccoy .
I have used this method once or twice since , mainly for matching finishing timber in renovations . Not for turned items tho , yet .

I would suggest trying this method with other colours too . My experience is that the soaking gives a far better depth and cover than a wipe on stain .

Sometimes I made handturned translucent lamp shades, if I have the right wood of course. I keep your suggestion in my mind.
Thanks. Ad

Originally Posted by rsser

Pine is not the best for staining (at least Radiata Pine).

English Ash is a good one to play with: scorch with blow torch, wire brush loose ash off and finish with shellac. You get a near-black colour with exaggerated grain.

You also get cracks ... but it's rustic right?

You are so right rsser, I knew that, it was just a playing around of me, of course a nice playing around, for sure when you never did that before.
I see it as a learning process, knowing that there are a lot more possibility's.
Thanks. Ad

Originally Posted by Slow6

The vinegar and steel wool trick can work well but once applied it really benefits from some exposure to the sun.
I only found this out after I tossed the test piece out the window in disgust! a couple of hours in the sun it was pitch black. I was using rosewood at the time.

Very good to know.
Thanks, Ad

Very good result Ad. I like the finished piece
but best of all I like the Shape of the bowl.
cheers Tony.