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Thread: EEE Ultrashine
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6th February 2008, 07:35 PM #1Member
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EEE Ultrashine
Do I use Ultrashine before I stain the job.or after I have sanded and stained.
Confused.
Stevew
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6th February 2008 07:35 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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6th February 2008, 07:52 PM #2human termite
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i would use the ultrashine first because being a ( cutting compound ) sort of ,it may make the colour patchy if you stained first, when you use ultrashine what you see as far as shine is not a coating it is just that the timber is so smooth,and nothing else according to the directions from website, so i would ultrashine,wipe all residue off , stain, then shellawax or what ever you use. bob
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6th February 2008, 08:01 PM #3
Will water based stain/dye penetrate after EEE?
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6th February 2008, 10:00 PM #4human termite
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from what i read on there website there is nothing left after using eee, so therefore any stain that would work before eee ,would work after eee, at least thats my interpritation. bob
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6th February 2008, 10:20 PM #5
Would Rustins Plastic go over EEE
Regards David
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6th February 2008, 10:49 PM #6human termite
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When EEE is used on a lathe over raw timber it produces a brilliant shine. Do not be fooled into leaving the wood like this. It is the timber shining from abrading and burnishing. There is no finish on the wood. Because of this the timber will dull in a short period of time from moisture in the air, steam, humidity, etc. This is because the timber is still raw.
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6th February 2008, 10:53 PM #7
Read this page.
Particularly this bit.....
If using another finish over the EEE do a test piece first as the waxes in the EEE might stop the final finish from adhering to the timberCliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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6th February 2008, 10:55 PM #8GOLD MEMBER
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Have you tested this? As I understand it, the cutting component (tripoli powder) is carried by a wax medium. If this is true, even if no wax is left on the surface some wax could impregnate the wood and make it less permeable to the stain. I surely would test it first, if nobody actually has and can set the record straight.
ETA Cliff got there first... I am a slow typist!
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6th February 2008, 10:57 PM #9human termite
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if you go to the top of the forums screen you will find u-beautes website ,just click on the logo ,it is very informative and covers all their products and applications. bob
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6th February 2008, 11:02 PM #10
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8th February 2008, 06:57 AM #11
EEE is an abrasive which is a combination of Tripoli Powder and waxes. When properly used on raw timber it basically leaves a non coated surface which will dull instantly if wet with water.
However as F 'n' E rightly says there could be wax left in the timber which may affect the application of stain or dye. Using a turpentine based stain should be no problem (depending on the timber) as it will soften and blend with any wax residue. In theory a water dye such as the ones we offer should also work (again, depending on the timber).
My preference is to sands up to 1200 grit or above, dampen the surface with water to raise the grain sand with the same final grit again to knock off any raised grain, then dampen again and apply water dye with the dampened piece of rag (this allows for deeper penetration of the dye into the timber). Allow it to dry, if needed sand lightly with 1500 grit or higher then use Shellawax over the top. If you wish you can then use EEE after the Shellawax, then apply another coat of Shellawax (liquid, Glow or Cream), if a bowl apply 2 extra coats.
You do not have to use EEE at all if you don't want to and often with staining this is preferable. It's advisable however to sand up to 1500 grit or above if EEE is not used.
Hope this is of some help.
Cheers - Neil
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8th February 2008, 08:14 AM #12
Hi Neil
Thanks for this information,it will be very helpful
Regards David
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8th February 2008, 08:07 PM #13
On ya F&E&M.
Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.