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Thread: New Egg-Chuck
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7th December 2006, 12:09 PM #16
Thanks goes to TTIT!!
I posted that I had modified someone else's Egg Chuck.... couldn't remember whose, :confused: :confused: but found it this evening. :eek:
Thanks, TTIT! Didn't even catch on when I read your post about the masking tape. :eek: Told you I was dense.
Thanks again, tho', cause it works like a charm!!.
The masking tape is much better than the foam rubber, too. Put on a few layers, and it pads the egg against marring, but still allows centering.
Good stuff, Vern.Al
Some minds are like concrete thoroughly mixed up and permanently set.
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7th December 2006 12:09 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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7th December 2006, 12:18 PM #17
Thanks, tm, but it's not my idea. I just made another post giving credit where credit is due. TTIT's Chuck. I just stuck it together different.
Speakin' of dust... I have 5 large (40 gal) plastic bags about 3/4ths full of shavin's. (A guy is supposed to come and get them for bedding his 4-H animals.) I've been coring and roughing bowls, and making eggs and screwdriver handles for three days. My soap vats are full! And another man I'm tryin' to get hooked on turning has turned three bowls on Old Griz. Things are hummin' in Texas.!Al
Some minds are like concrete thoroughly mixed up and permanently set.
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7th December 2006, 09:35 PM #18
your soap vats? vas ist dis?
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8th December 2006, 08:48 PM #19Senior Member
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tashammer, tiny bubbles or soaking green wood in a liquid dish detergent solution is one method used to dry green wood and prevent movement and cracking as it seasons. You might try www.ronkent.com/ for a discussion.
It has been discussed here and some like it and some dont ,it might turn up if you do a search.
tm
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8th December 2006, 09:36 PM #20
If you want to do a search, "LDD" should be one of the search phrases.
- Andy Mc
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9th December 2006, 04:15 PM #21
50% (clear, uncolored) Liquid Dish Soap and 50% Water. I don't use the stuff in the recommended way. I rough-turn bowls and submerge them in the soup. Some I leave for months... just depends on when I can get back to them. Never leave any for less than a week, and most of them for a full month (log 'em in and out on a notebook). When I take them out, I very seldom wrap 'em in brown paper to dry 'em anymore (as is recommended, some I do, most I don't)... I turn most of them to finish thickness, before they have a chance to warp and oval out. I think there's a lot less cracking with the way I do it. When you get them down to about 1/4" to 3/8" thickness, they have an easier time drying without all the pressure (JMO).
By the time I finish turning them, they're nearly dry, having had most of the water spun out of them. Then I sand them all the way, and set 'em aside to finish drying. They'll be ready for lacquer (non-utilitarian) or oil (utilitarian) within a few days.
Like I said... it's not the way the stuff is recommended to be used... just the way I do it... at this time... I may start doing it different next week... if by accident somethin' should work better! )Al
Some minds are like concrete thoroughly mixed up and permanently set.
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