Thread: Eureka ...... almost.

The most common sizes in the U.S. are 1"-8 and 1-1/4"-8. Dunno about the rest of the planet. If your lathe design will handle 16" diameter or larger, the 1-1/4"-8 would be the better choice, with maybe 2" dia. or larger spindle shaft in a couple of pillow block bearings.

see Art, ya' shoulda' taken my offer to chauffeur a lathe down to ya'....oh, well good luck with the loaner, you'll do OK.

Thanks Texian. I take it self aligning bearings are the go?

Been snooping around a few places and might be able to pick up an old headstock off a metal lathe. Bearings and shaft would- or should- be ok and aligned. It's just that it's a big might at present.


Yes Ed, may have been the way to go. Your air fare plus a lathe strapped to the roof rack woul probably have been no more expensive than any lathe here!!

Arthur have a look at my pics of the lathe WIP, feel free to use them in anyway to explain to your lathe builder.

Thread size,well make it for the chuck you intend to use, Bearings yes, self aligning is a must. It just lessens the complexity and required accuracy of the headstock .

Quite right. I shoulda said self aligning.

I would definitely get someone to make/find/borrow a headstock shaft (hollow with M2) with standard size bearings, pulleys, and thread... either here in Australia or US and then send to you. Perhaps the cost/speed of sending from US will be less/faster.

If this headstock was going locally I would be happy to pull it apart and send the headstock shaft to you.... But, you never know, there may be someone on the forum who has a spare headstock shaft just sitting about for you....

The shaft itself is not very large or heavy, so shouldn't cost more than an arm and a leg to send.

Perhaps also find an old metal lathe tailstock locally ('s suggestion). This will determine your swing. Visit a few secondhand equipment/junk yards to see what's on offer.

Then get the local guy to manufacture the remainder to take the headstock shaft and tailstock.

Thanks fellas.

Neil, the problem here is tracking down second hand places and junk yards. It's a totally different proposition to Australia but at least I am now on the way.

One place I was taken to has an old metalworking lathe but they have decided to keep it. Pit as it had a very solid bed(cast iron precision ground) with ahead stock and tail stock eminently suitable for modification. Ah well, you can't win 'em all.

I've had extra contact with Hughie and will be making more contact with him about a few details. Will keep you posted.

Pity you want a Morse Taper. I've seen some BIG bowls swung off headstocks made from old 4cyl engine blocks & cranks.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

Pity you want a Morse Taper. I've seen some BIG bowls swung off headstocks made from old 4cyl engine blocks & cranks.

Seen some demos on video Skew but don't possess the required machine or level of insanity.

I am now on the way!!! Was in town today and we passed a shop called "Casa de Torneiro" = Turner's House. Went in and the fellow told us where there was a turner who could do what I wanted fairly quickly. Older style turner, up to his armpits in grease AND he knew what a Morse Taper was. Is turning up an adapter for the Chuck so I can put it on the borrowed lathe.
Also told us he had made several machines (ie. lathes) for woodworkers. We speak the same language!!!!

Also ordered a shaft. Went a bit overboard with the size 300mm x50mm with #2 MT one end a nd a 15mm hole through the remainder. Figured it was worth having more than enough metal so some can be turned off.

Now this is where I seek your advice. Should I go for a 11/4" X 8tpi chuck thread?

What size bearings and therefore what size should the shaft be turned down to.?

Not sure how to anchor the bearing s to the shaft.

Is it best to put pulleys between the bearings, or outboard on the headstock? I think between the bearings is best.

Also worried about alignment of tailstock. But I suppose the old bloke will be able to sort that out.

Originally Posted by artme

...
Also told us he had made several machines (ie. lathes) for woodworkers. We speak the same language!!!!

...

You might want to see where these machines went to - they might have nifty features you could borrow

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

You might want to see where these machines went to - they might have nifty features you could borrow

Good thinking!!!

Originally Posted by artme

Also ordered a shaft. Went a bit overboard with the size 300mm x50mm with #2 MT one end a nd a 15mm hole through the remainder. Figured it was worth having more than enough metal so some can be turned off.

Now this is where I seek your advice. Should I go for a 11/4" X 8tpi chuck thread?

What size bearings and therefore what size should the shaft be turned down to.?

Not sure how to anchor the bearing s to the shaft.

Is it best to put pulleys between the bearings, or outboard on the headstock? I think between the bearings is best.

Also worried about alignment of tailstock. But I suppose the old bloke will be able to sort that out.

Art...this might help. When I built the Monstor lathe I used a 2 inch shaft, 2 inch pillow blocks (self aligning bearings) and had the main pulley mounted on the rear of the shaft - it worked just fine in that position, as it probably would have if it had been placed centrally between the blocks

Originally Posted by artme

Also ordered a shaft. Went a bit overboard with the size 300mm x50mm with #2 MT one end a nd a 15mm hole through the remainder. Figured it was worth having more than enough metal so some can be turned off.

Good start.

Now this is where I seek your advice. Should I go for a 11/4" X 8tpi chuck thread?

or 30 x 3.5mm

What size bearings and therefore what size should the shaft be turned down to.?

Turn down to next standard bearing size, leaving a shoulder on chuck end (from memory) against which that bearing will sit.

Not sure how to anchor the bearings to the shaft.

Per above, a shoulder is a common method. A left handed thread and nut on other end is also common. You can get thrust bearings that 'clamp' onto the shaft and although I have designed and built equipment for other purposes that used them I am getting a bit out of my depth to give you advice about them.

Is it best to put pulleys between the bearings, or outboard on the headstock? I think between the bearings is best.

It's neater and usually hides away that end of the belt making it safer near where you are working without having to make extra belt guards. The downside is you have to remove the shaft to change belts.

Also worried about alignment of tailstock.

Self aligning bearings will do the trick provided you are not too far out of alignment to be begin with.

But I suppose the old bloke will be able to sort that out.

I expect he will be helpful with lots of sound advice. Do a drawing of the job and discuss with him before he begins. You could also post the drawings here for comment to avoid pitfalls.

PS- don't forget to have spanner 'flats' machined into the chuck end of your shaft...

Great Neil!! Thanx many times over.

Also wrote to Corbs who has a TL 1300 like mine and got very sound info.

Will ring the torneiro this morning and tell him not to be so generous with the shaft size.