Thread: Faking it when you cant make it

I think the burnished look gets lifted up with the finish anyway. Or stops the finish even getting it. So that "off the tool" look is a private enjoyment for the turner.

To get back to some sort of shine you have to work up the grits to as high as you can stand. Although some wood takes higher grits better than others. (are you skipping grits from 180 to 400? You probably need to get the inbetween ones. And if you are really starting sanding at 120# and not resorting to the 60# gouge you aren't doing to badly. )

So you want a deliberate bruised surface

I didn't think the shininess was bruising. I've seen it in examples like the picture... Straight off the tool, no sandpaper.

It seems like a good production technique to spare applying a finish.

Btw, did tell me to learn to start at 120, which I now do. He explained this is what the finishing dudes need.

For my shaker knobs, I do 120, 180 then a quick blat at 320 or 400. They are exceedingly smooth and ready for paint.

Burnishing is as Neil said bruising the wood or forcing the grain of the timer to lay down. It can be done using a bit of hardwood and force the wood together use the hardwood with a rounded end like an old file handle broom handle or such.

If your getting a burnished finish as good as your pic I'd be then applying a burnishing oil using 1000 wet & dry and a cloth

have a read of this

I have found not all timbers will burnish those with oil with in often do better but not always.

You could try burnishing the pieces (while on the lathe) with a handful of shavings. This will restore the shine.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I use two methods to burnish. One is to use the back of the roughing gouge, the other method is to use bone. I have a piece of cow rib bone from the butcher, that has been boiled to remove the fat and meat. It was then sanded with wet and dry paper, wet. Produces a nice burnished surface that I then coat with walnut oil. If I remember I will take a photo of the bone burnisher. Works on all timbers.

Jim

Originally Posted by Evanism

I didn't think the shininess was bruising. I've seen it in examples like the picture... Straight off the tool, no sandpaper.

It seems like a good production technique to spare applying a finish.

Btw, did tell me to learn to start at 120, which I now do. He explained this is what the finishing dudes need.

For my shaker knobs, I do 120, 180 then a quick blat at 320 or 400. They are exceedingly smooth and ready for paint.

When sanding, you need to go through all the grits, as skipping a few, will lead to an unsatisfactory finish, this is more noticeable with a gloss finish. When sanding on the lathe, I start with the lowest possible, depending on the wood, could be 80, then 100,120,150,180, 240, 320, 400, then 600, on my pens I use wet and dry up to 1500. I always sand with the grain when I've finished with the grit on the lathe running. I stop the lathe of course, to sand with the grain, this is to remove rotary sanding marks. Check for rotary marks, then start the lathe with the next grit, removing the along the grain marks again checking for marks. I know this sounds laborious, but to get a good finish, the hard work needs to be done. I've heard some top turners say, that to turn a project takes about 2-3 hours to get it right, then spend 20+hours on sanding!!!
Kryn

Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore

When sanding, you need to go through all the grits, as skipping a few, will lead to an unsatisfactory finish, this is more noticeable with a gloss finish. When sanding on the lathe, I start with the lowest possible, depending on the wood, could be 80, then 100,120,150,180, 240, 320, 400, then 600, on my pens I use wet and dry up to 1500. I always sand with the grain when I've finished with the grit on the lathe running. I stop the lathe of course, to sand with the grain, this is to remove rotary sanding marks. Check for rotary marks, then start the lathe with the next grit, removing the along the grain marks again checking for marks. I know this sounds laborious, but to get a good finish, the hard work needs to be done. I've heard some top turners say, that to turn a project takes about 2-3 hours to get it right, then spend 20+hours on sanding!!!
Kryn

Just one small point to add to this and all of the other good advice above -> Always remove the dust, preferably with compressed air, after each grit before moving on to the next finer one. You'd be surprised how much fine sandpaper grit is left behind ready to scratch the surface, and those tiny scratches will be impossible to get out with even finer grits.
(I'm sure everyone does this already, but it doesn't hurt to mention it.)

twos up for the handfull of shavings. I normally do that after I have got down to 400 and it leaves a lovely finish.

The problem I can see with blowing the dust off is that then it's in the air all around the workshop. Use a paper towel instead?

Originally Posted by Jonzjob

twos up for the handfull of shavings. I normally do that after I have got down to 400 and it leaves a lovely finish.

The problem I can see with blowing the dust off is that then it's in the air all around the workshop. Use a paper towel instead?

Dry paper towel might not get any grit that remains in the pores. Soaked with white spirits might do it, or a brush with fine bristles maybe? (I have a dedicated shaving brush for when I'm not near the compressor.) Or a vacuum cleaner/dust collector?
I like compressed air because it really blasts the timber clean, and I have so much dust here that that tiny bit makes no difference.

Is your workshop really that free of dust? You'd hate mine.

Well here another option for you.

I prefer to start sanding with 120 then moving through the grits 180, 220 and finish with 320 or 400. Just that sometimes the finish from the tool is not as good as I would like and I might start with 80. I then reside myself to knowing that I will be spending a lot more time on the 120grit to get out the deep scratches of the 80grit.

I also sand with the grain with the lathe off and held in place. I tend to do this more with pens depending how I feel as the arm will be sore once you finished.

Moving away from pens to larger pieces I have sanded to 400 then used sanding sealer to raise the grain. After this had some time to dry I sanded again at 400. I have also seen person using water to raise the grain, tried this on one piece and it took a long time to dry(at least for me).

As for actual burnishing I have used shavings from the piece but was not happy so I went back to sanding.

Also used Triple E on a couple of pieces to sand to a higher grit before applying finish. It does darker the lighter woods a little too much for my liking but gives a really smooth finish.

Well more than one option to think about.

OK I'll add my two cents worth.
I use power sanding and inertia sanding on all my bowls and hollow vessels. I dont go through the grits grade by grade as I have found using the above it is not necessary. The inertia sander will leave a finish much higher than the grit actually used and often finish with EEE for the final smooth finish.
Although I do have grits to 80- 1500 but not consecutive never found the need to own that much sand paper. However I do realize that pens are another kettle of fish and may well require a totally different approach that I use.
I think we all need to find that which works for us on any given job and most of it will come down to trial and error with some advise be received along the way after a few failures.

Originally Posted by powderpost

I use two methods to burnish. One is to use the back of the roughing gouge, the other method is to use bone. I have a piece of cow rib bone from the butcher, that has been boiled to remove the fat and meat. It was then sanded with wet and dry paper, wet. Produces a nice burnished surface that I then coat with walnut oil. If I remember I will take a photo of the bone burnisher. Works on all timbers.

Jim

DSCN1148S.jpg
The bone

I'm a white spirit man and it works a treat