Thread: Fast Drying Wood Formula and Results

Another update.

I got some freshly felled apricot from Shedhand and a rough turned something like a vase (really just a deep steep sided bowl) from it.

It hollowed into the end grain and had the centre of the growth rings somewhere near the base.

I painted on my solution and then wrapped/stuffed the wet bowl with newspaper that was also soaked in the solution.

I wrapped this up in a plastic bag and left it for a week. When I came back, the newspaper was still wet (I am hoping it was the solution, not just excess water). Anyway, the rough had not warped noticeably yet. The was a slight bit of checking at the core of the wood - but that is pretty much expected as it is hard to dry wood like that.

I am now leaving it for a week to dry out and I will let you know how it goes.


I tried this with some myrtle that I rough turned. The final bowl was almost paper thin. It didn't crack, but it has warped a little. Damn! Mind you, I have had myrtle warp even worse for a piece that I was SURE was dry, so maybe it is just the wood or - god forbid - me.

Cam

ps The first sassafras piece is still fine.

Standard Myrtle is pretty unstable anything short of EMC.

Can I ask what EMC is?

Well, I tried it, more of a mess than I had hoped for, I still prefer the Alcohol method, Guess what you are used to..... I'll dance with what brung me...

I have confidence in the results of the way I have been successful, all the same, it was worth a try to see if I liked it better.

Seems so much more simple the way I do it. I turn the piece down to about 1/2" inch thick or less and then soak over night in Denatured Alcohol. Next day I wrap the piece in Brown paper and weigh it. I set it aside for a couple of weeks and it is usually ready when I'm in the mood to finish the job.

Fair enough, but I don't see how it could be a mess? :confused:

Anyway, I get the distinct impression that everyone seems to use different methods.

Cam

Hi All,

My two cents worth.

It looks like to me that there is not one method for all timbers.
I get good results on pine with soap a la Ron Kent.
I have had good success with denatured Alcohol[meths] on Camphor Laurel courtesy Hickory, thanks for the tip.
Some success with Eucalypt burl with soap.
And no real success with redgum with anything so far.
Myrtle is still soaking in the soap, will be trying alcohol method on the next piece of myrtle.

It seems the dense timber will take along time with soap, maybe as long as it takes to dry naturally
Pine, and soft timbers soak up the soap well. Meths goes right in rapidly and I tried micro waving the after soaking in meths the next day it worked fine. Other than it moved alot, this was more to do with the way it was cut from the log rather than anything else I suspect.
Cameron I have yet to try your mix. When I get a biggish container with a decent lid will give it a go.
hughie

Good ideas Hughie.

The reason I like the idea of meths and soap is that it is combining two methods, but isn't really any harder/messier than either.

I haven't tried microwaving it, but I am a bit scared of stinking up the microwave and I don't like the idea of massively warping bits of wood.

Cam

Originally Posted by CameronPotter

Can I ask what EMC is?

I think = "Equilibrium Moisture Content." When the MC of wood matches the average humidity of the atmosphere it's in. ie. The wood has been "properly" dried.

I've gotta agree with Hughie about different methods/timbers... some redgums & LDD just don't seem to agree. River Red Gum, on the other hands, works like a charm with LDD. Meths & Camphor Laurel, eh? That'll be my next trial, methinks. I'd rather avoid soap 'cos I want maximum scent, so don't want to break down the oils more than necessary. Thanks for the idea Hughie (and Hickory)

Ahhhh. Thanks Skew and the idea of meths to avoid breaking down the oils is a good point. I hadn't even thought about that! Mind you, we don't get campor laurel down here, but on the other hand maybe it might be worth remembering with regards to huon, although I find huon to be a bit of a plain wood.

Looks like Ron Kent may be specialising in spalted Norfolk Island Pine... Wonder where he gets it from.

Cameron
I'll certainly use your unusual and unheard of technique. It ha the advantage of being very simple and cheep. (I have not yet a micro wave even if this method seems to be used quite often).
In any case the results on your vase are splendid.
I’m sure the Italians are going to love it. <O</O

[QUOTE]

Originally Posted by Len McCarthy

Looks like Ron Kent may be specializing in spalted Norfolk Island Pine... Wonder where he gets it from.[/quote

]

Len, Ron Kent gets locally in Hawaii from the local tree loppers. It grows wild there and I gather is a native to the island. Dunno how it ended up as Norfolk if its from Hawaii. Turns it as he gets it, the same day, very green timber, he talks about wearing a rain coat whilst turning.

hughie

Try this thought:::If you soak a chunk in DNA (meths), and then microwave it, the heat buildup will evaporate the DNA. With a heavy concentration of DNA fumes in the microwave all you need is one tiny spark (or an ember from overcooked wood). Could be an exciting way to disassemble the microwave. I know there is a fan that exhausts the microwave, but it still makes me consider explosions or fire with the alcohol fumes. Does anyone have :confused: another thought on this idea??

Len, Ron Kent gets locally in Hawaii from the local tree loppers. It grows wild there and I gather is a native to the island. Dunno how it ended up as Norfolk if its from Hawaii.

Way I hear the story is that English Sea Captains used to plant seedlings where ever they went so that there would always be repair masts in the future. Trees took to the climate and soil so well that they created a forrest on Maui. Chinese brought in Bamboo to build with as it was their usual choice and it also took to the climate well. When I was there I took to the climate well also but, alas, I had to return to my little piece of heaven.