Thread: Filling cracks and rot pockets.

Another alternative for those of us who can't afford coffee beans... instant coffee!

Seriously, for the darker timbers I've been mixing instant coffee through my epoxy. Depending on how thoroughly it's mixed, it can either look like a resin vein or replicate the speckled, tightly packed dust left by some grubs.

'Tis cheap, easy and looks very subtle and natural... although can be a right bugger if you absentmindedly stir your cuppa with the epoxy-covered stick.

Thanks, but no one has mentioned if they are using Stylwood lacquer over these repairs, which was my initial question, as it appears it is causing the shrinkage of my fillers,
Crocy

If you want to make a decorative effect you could do worse than car body filler - used straight it's white but mixed with a little acrylic artists paint any colour you want.

Also good for filling textured patterns and then cut back to a smooth finish. It turns and sands well and is very smooth.

I've used Mirrotone lacquer (precat) over the CA and coffee grounds without any shrinkage. CA is a pretty good glue and penetrates well into the timber so there is a good bonding effect. I like to build the filled section up a bit then sand it down and apply a little more CA to ensure that the filler is well saturated with the glue, then sand back a little again. It can be good to apply some sanding sealer, in open grained timbers, to stop the CA from penetrating into the wood as this can be a problem - causes staining as the CA fills the pores. With cracks I then carefully use a fine V carving tool to redefine the crack so to speak. Oh and if you use a sanding sealer make sure that it is compatible with your lacquer. The turps based sanding sealers don't work well with lacquers that use a Acetone type thinner.

Actually I've noticed a few of the epoxies shrinking, possibly need to let them cure a bit longer before final finishing. This occured with lacquering and oiling.

If you ask at your local Coffee shop they will generally give you a good supply of coffee grounds. A days worth of grinds from a busy place will give you a years supply of grounds. You will probably need to dry them though. The microwave works well but be aware that they will burn if you try to dry them too quickly. If left to dry normally watch out for mold.

Hope this is of some help - Peter

(Actually I've noticed a few of the epoxies shrinking, possibly need to let them cure a bit longer before final finishing. This occured with lacquering and oiling.)
At last Peter, someone has noticed that it does shrink under the lacquer, does anyone know of a filler that does not shrink?
regards,
Crocy.

Maybe you need to look at some sort of pre-coat like a primer that might stop the Stylewood from affecting the filler ......
........
.......
.......... or even using a real finish instead of that glossy Stylewood rubbish

Hi
On the subject of filling voids and cracks in logs and turned pieces I have used all the methods already mentioned. Another one I use quiet often is gorrila glue mixed with waste material I have turned off other projects. I keep the smaller sawdust and shavings in diffrent containers so that the colors do not mix. However if i do need a particular shade I use spirit dyes to produce the one I wont before I mix the sawdust with the glue. The consistency I try to achieve is one of glazing putty. I find that a good wire brushing to clean out any loose particles which also helps the material to adhere to the surrounding areas. Always leave it proud of the the hole slightly as it gives you somthing to true down to. Hope this as been helpful.
Brian

Originally Posted by TTIT

Maybe you need to look at some sort of pre-coat like a primer that might stop the Stylewood from affecting the filler ......
........
.......
.......... or even using a real finish instead of that glossy Stylewood rubbish

MMMMM, you may be on the money there Vern, I might contact Wattyl and run it by them.
as for real finishes, I dont hide my mistakes under an oil finish
regards,
Crocy.